turn signals

[gimpyrobb]

So I started trouble shooting my turn signals tonight. I replaced all the bad bulbs, nada. Swapped out the three lever switch, nada. My VOM got left out in the rain, so I will have to wait to track down voltage. I guess I will try the flasher box and turn signal lever tomarrow. Any suggestions as to where to start tracking voltage at? All suggestions are welcome. Also, I put on Oilcans hard top that he bought and I am supposed to transport. They are kinda nice.

 

[CGarbee]

Don't forget to check your ground on the turn signal lever. It is gounded to the steering column by the hose clamp, so wiggle it around a bit, scrape some paint/rust off the steering column, etc...

Pick a direction with the voltmeter, at the column or at a light, and work toward the other end... Just be real systematic and let us know what the results are.

Good luck.

 

[cranetruck]

Gimpy, the ground at the steering wheel (hose clamp) is only for the indicator bulb on the flasher control unit.
In 9 out of 10 cases the flasher unit itself is the problem. It is mounted on the inside of the left fender. Do a search on this forum for more info on troubleshooting it.
If individual lights don't work or if lights don't burn at full brightness, then there is very likely a grounding problem. Each light assembly is grounded individually, as is the flasher unit.

 

[houdel]

I too had a problem with the flasher unit working only went it wanted to. The grounding of the flasher unit is also an issue. At least in my case, the flasher unit housing is plastic. The ground wire goes under one of the mounting bolt heads between the bolt head and plastic flasher housing. That means your flasher grounding is dependent on a good electrical connection between the ground wire to the mounting bolt head, the mounting bolt to its nut, the nut to the star washer, and the star washer to the fender inner, and the fender inner to the chassis. Lots of possibilities for a bad connection there! I ran a grounding jumper from the flasher grounding wire to a good chassis ground. My flashers have been pretty reliable since then!

 

[gimpyrobb]

Thanks guys, I'll check it out tonight. Looking like I'll be spray painting over the "urban camo" this weekend. Anyone found close color matches for the woodland camo at any of the "home centers"?

 

[houdel]

It depends on whether you have 3 color camo or 4 camo. I have 3 color camo, I used the Krylon series flat camo spray paints and they matched pretty well except on my vinyl cargo cover, where I had to spray VERY lightly, otherwise I ended up with a semi gloss/glossy finish.. I used the Krylon #8143 Olive Drab, Krylon # 8140 Black, and Krylon #8147 Medium Brown. The #8147 Medium Brown is usually NOT carried in the "Big Box" stores (i.e., Wal*Mart etc.) so I had to order it on-line. It cost me $3.62/can plus $8.63 shipping for 6 cans of each. I ordered mine on line from "Utility Safeguard".

Painting over CARC with spray cans is a b**ch, the CARC absorbs the paint ao you do not get the color you want. My best results came from using an electric "palm" sander to remove the CARC layer and get a smooth, non absorbent finish before using the Krylon.

 

[Elwenil]

You could try the Krylon Camouflage Paint System:

http://krylon.com/main/product_temp...lid=12&productid=1843&content=product_details

Click on "Color, MSDS, & Product Offering" for colors and part numbers. Walmart and either Home Depot or Lowes carry them. I have found close matches to the later 3 color camo in that paint. the 8143 OD Green is passing close to 383 green when painted over a red oxide base, and looks like the older OD when painted without the red oxide primer. Might be close enough to work for your 4 color scheme. The paint is sold in spray cans and I used to be able to find regular quart cans also but I haven't seen them for a while.

EDIT: Eh, I'm a little slow, lol...

 

[devilman96]

Ditto on what Bjorn said...

Just for ref...

Ign feed to turn switch is pin "G" on the TS harness (if there is power here your problem is in the TS, wiring or flasher)
Generally... If your brake lights are working then your turn switch is prolly fine...
Flasher unit wiring is... input (from TS switch) wire B... Output (to TS switch) wire A... Wire C is ground.
If you have 24V on wire B and you don't have flashing 24V on A the flasher is bad
If you don't have 24V on flasher's B wire check pin G going to the TS
If you don't have power on pin G you should have no brake lights ether...

If the flasher is bad check your wiring harness resistance (wires 460, 461, 22-460, 22-461 on the harness)... To high of a load takes them out and with the older wiring harnesses in these trucks a faulty connection and or short is a good possibility...

 

[gimpyrobb]

Dman, you got the track for me to start, as I have no brake lights.

 

[devilman96]

100$ on the light switch...Or the harness in between... I will explane in detail as wiring confuses the snot out of some.. If you understand it just bear with me on this as I will put it into as simple of terms as possible...

The path to follow is this... Battery (or start relay) to the light switch... light switch to the turn switch... Turn switch to the lights...

In detail...

Battery to #10 wire... # 10 feeds most of the truck (ign switch, circuit breakers, etc) and is always hot... so... if you have ign you know this is a good circuit. (If not, its the harness)

#10 wire feeds the # 15 wire... which feeds the light switch for all of the lighting on the truck... which again is always hot... #15 is Pin F on the light switch connector plug (back of the light switch and wiring harness plug)... if you have any working lights (head, tail, etc) # 15 circuit is good... (if not its the harness)

If you have SOME working lights... Erase the above from your brain and move forward...

In the light switch you have the Service Drive position... (plus others but forget those)... Were looking at Pin F (#15 wire from above) and Pin J (#460/461) these two make contact to power the "turn" circuit...

Since we have headlights we know the switch is powered (or not powered)... you should have voltage output on 460/461 Pin J.... and pins B,M,A,K,C but they don't matter as we are looking for turn...

To test the light switch... remove it...

In the Service Drive position connect your meter to Pin F which will represent the battery feed on #15... and test for continuity to Pin J which will represent 460/461 output for the stop/turn circuit... If you have a good connection the light switch is working to feed the turn switch.

If you are missing anything between these you have a bad light switch... Repost and I will move forward if you need the help...

 

[G744]

If you would like to do it up in the current 3-color "Loepard" pattern, try this:

Home Depot. Behr Exterior Latex stain. Russet Brown, Ponderosa Green, Ebony. Exact matches, very tough paint.

If your present topcoat is OK, just spray away. I did a junker M37 12 years ago and it is still looking good.

dg

 

[gimpyrobb]

The wire 460/461 was busted. I mended that and I now have turn signals. Still no brake lights though. I will have to pick this up later tonight, as I have a B-day to go to. I would skip it, but its Shelley's brother. Anyway, has anyone got a turnsignal plug with about 6 inches of wire attached? My fix is temporary at best. Catch you guys later tonight, and thanks for the help so far.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I have some pieces. PM me your addy

 

[oilcan]

Tell the hippie-potamus I said "hey".

And you can use my spare junk until you find something better. We'll look around the secret stash when we pick up the mystery machine.



Man, there are a lot of inside jokes in this post...