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u joint for m1008 front axle??

jimmyjimwas

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pittsburgh/pa
Hello
Can anyone verify that Moog part 280 high strength 1 1/16 od. For u joint at the front axle. Will this fit on the m1008.
There are so many different companys and styles, Or is there another mfg, part number that will be just fine to use.
Parts manual lists part # oem 386451 dont see that any where..
Thanks for your time..
 
Last edited:

Al Harvey

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Correct terminology would be the "Front Drive Shaft U-Joint at the Front Axle". I believe the 280 would work, I have Moog 369 on my list, but haven't confirmed the number yet. Appears the only difference in the two is .001" in length. To make sure, take the driveshaft with you to the parts store.
 
That item is a little different than you posted in the first post...Since the front axle does have u joints in it it would be safe to assume you wanted a u joint from the front dana 60 axle but from the picture of the front driveline I see that is what you want the U joint for is this correct ?Any napa aps should have this joint.ETA: Imeasured a spare shaft that I happened to have on the shop floor and its u joint measured 3.233 x 1.077 not cleaned at all so with these numbers in mind picking from the chart posted at link below I would call the joint a 1310 picking from the top sectio. marked "Outside Lock U-Joints*by Series".Measure the cap diameter and the across the caps dimention and compare to the listings at this webpage http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/HTML Measure/UJ ID Guide.html
Correct terminology would be the "Front Drive Shaft U-Joint at the Front Axle". I believe the 280 would work, I have Moog 369 on my list, but haven't confirmed the number yet. Appears the only difference in the two is .001" in length. To make sure, take the driveshaft with you to the parts store.
 
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doghead

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At the bottom of that link is a list of common manufacturers and their part numbers. There are 17 common name brands listed with their brand's part number.

MFG SKU means, manufacturers stock keeping unit. This is a National standard that has been used for decades now.

It should be obvious.

MFG SKUCAGEManufacturerTypeStatusRole
114-52089574Borg-Warner Corp.AF
5-200X95019Dana Corp.AA
244838211862General Motors Corp.AH
344838211862General Motors Corp.AH
371392611862General Motors Corp.AH
382846924617General Motors Corp.AA
388969011862General Motors Corp.AH
395557111862General Motors Corp.AH
11521UB93006Motive Industries Inc.AF
1154993006Motive Industries Inc.AF
1154983778Motive Parts Co. of America Inc.AA
5-200X06495Muncie Power Products Inc.AA
1-020081221Neapco Inc.AA
28200X81221Neapco Inc.AA
388969022852Spalla Inc.AF
244838293219Truck and Bus GroupAA
371392693219Truck and Bus GroupAA
 
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doghead

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And yes, you can just go anywhere and tell them you need a u joint for a 1984 Chevy Blazer or pickup.
 

Recovry4x4

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386451 was the part number provided by the original poster. I just checked the parts TM and that is the listed part number for all UOCs both first and second design. To explain further, UOC is use on code. It says what model truck it's used on. Here are the UOCs listed; 209, 194, 208, 210, 230, 231, 252, 254 and 256. That list is all the CUCVs folks. According to the TM, every one of them uses the same joint. With that said, any driveline shop would have a boatload of these on the shelf. Dogheads post lists the part numbers of many manufacturers. Spicer 5-153X is one of the correct joints. It comes with clips and a zerk fitting.
 

Skinny

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I personally would take measurements and know exactly what you need. First, you'd be amazed at how many differences there are across similar trucks. A GM dealer once told me my 87' K5 had a half dozen diff yoke options. Even with a VIN, 3 were still available to choose from. Second, if you are thinking some dunce that gets paid minimum wage is actually going to ask you enough information to maybe find the correct part you are mistaken. Most places you could ask for a front axle u-joint and the counter guy will go..."2wd or 4wd?" Then you get to run through if it has air conditioning or not which makes a huge difference in driveline bits. Very rarely do you find a good counter person. When you do, they are a fountain of useful information.

If it is a Dana/Spicer driveline, use that chart and actually put a caliper on it if you want the right part first time. Also, I personally would not use anything other than a genuine Spicer ujoint. They are affordable, proven to last much longer, and are typically a stronger piece unless you step up to some high dollar chromoly one. For a DD, Spicer all the way. I've never had a Moog or Superior last long even with greasing. I would also be doing business with a driveline shop like a Randy's Ring and Pinion or a local off road place. I've found that even trying to get normal bits is not easy with the usual Autozone, Napa, Robbins, etc. unless the guy knows how to special order.
 

jimmyjimwas

Member
65
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Location
pittsburgh/pa
Thank you all!! I went with the Spicer 5-153X
works great ..
"Skinny" you are right on the money
at first i went to Advance Auto and they
said exactly what you said in your post 2wd or 4wd.. etc,..mmm think this is the part... Thats when i
said heck no im gonna look into this further...
 
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