bbf
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have a 89 unimog from the us military and will not start i think it is the injecter pump is bad where do i find one of them.
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unimog help
- Thread starter bbf
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Where in Florida are you? There is another Mog owner, Bill Stauffer in Oviedo. He can be quite helpful. If you need parts, try Expedition Imports: www.expedition-imports.com
Join the Mog Mailing List at: http://www.mogmsgexch.com/index.php You will find an endless amount of knowledge and support from other Mog owners.
Join the Mog Mailing List at: http://www.mogmsgexch.com/index.php You will find an endless amount of knowledge and support from other Mog owners.
I forgot...you have an 89? I assume it is an SBU? Try Jim Ince at www.eurotech-services.com. He carries mostly SBU parts.
dc3coyote
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There is also Rene at Action Imports he dirves one
his Phone Number is 727 895 1175
He is in St Pete off of 4th street.
There are also a couple others in the area.
Branan
his Phone Number is 727 895 1175
He is in St Pete off of 4th street.
There are also a couple others in the area.
Branan
bbf
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what dose sbu mean
saddamsnightmare
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JAnuary 6th, 2008.
I might wish to point you also to Michael at Unipaser (United Parts Service) in Palo Alto, Ca., he has been most helpful in finding the parts to keep my 1963 Mercedes Benz Unimog S.404.114 (Swiss) running. The 404's are much maligned by those who want or need a Unimog diesel, but they are actually much like the Model "A" Ford, simple and easy to repair. You machine is probably the 406/416 the US Army was enamored of as a High Mobility
Mechanical excavator (either a SEEP or HMMH), neither or which were considered by the Army to be trucks, rather as in Europe all Unimogs are considered "Road Tractors" and are covered by a different set of highway regulations. You will, unfortunately find that the Mercedes Benz parts are going up in price lately due to the poor showing of the US Dollar on world markets (Ouch!). Good luck on your repairs and you will find the smaller Unimogs are like no other four wheel drive in the world- they make Hummers look like small children's toys.
Regards,
Kyle F. McGrogan
1963 Mercedes Benz Unimog S.404.114 (Swiss)
1971 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 Wo/W "Saddam's Nightmare" Vietnam and Desert Storm Verteran Truck.
I might wish to point you also to Michael at Unipaser (United Parts Service) in Palo Alto, Ca., he has been most helpful in finding the parts to keep my 1963 Mercedes Benz Unimog S.404.114 (Swiss) running. The 404's are much maligned by those who want or need a Unimog diesel, but they are actually much like the Model "A" Ford, simple and easy to repair. You machine is probably the 406/416 the US Army was enamored of as a High Mobility
Mechanical excavator (either a SEEP or HMMH), neither or which were considered by the Army to be trucks, rather as in Europe all Unimogs are considered "Road Tractors" and are covered by a different set of highway regulations. You will, unfortunately find that the Mercedes Benz parts are going up in price lately due to the poor showing of the US Dollar on world markets (Ouch!). Good luck on your repairs and you will find the smaller Unimogs are like no other four wheel drive in the world- they make Hummers look like small children's toys.
Regards,
Kyle F. McGrogan
1963 Mercedes Benz Unimog S.404.114 (Swiss)
1971 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 Wo/W "Saddam's Nightmare" Vietnam and Desert Storm Verteran Truck.
I 'm not sure what SBU stands for. However, an SBU model is the square cab which was made from 1977 until now. A picture of your Mog would help. Maybe you can post one? If you have the rounded body style, then parts are very easy to come by and relatively inexpensive. The SBU body style parts are more expensive and not all dealers carry them.
Picture of my Mog below which is the SBU cab.
Once again, where are you located in Florida?
Picture of my Mog below which is the SBU cab.
Once again, where are you located in Florida?
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bbf
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Here is a picture of the Unimog
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bbf
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its a friend of mine dont know to much about . i did find someone to rebuild the pump from this site
mdlbldrmatt135
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I think it's a SEE (Small Equipment Excavator they came equipped with a loader bucket on the front.
It does look like a SEE Tractor but the bed is too big for the backhoe attachement. It shouldn't have the higher troop sides on the bed and should be shorter. Unless it is a dump with that cab protector. The front mounting plate definitely looks like it's for a bucket attachment.
mdlbldrmatt135
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Could be just a snowplow mount...............
http://www.erdc.usace.army.mil/pls/erdcpub/docs/erdc/images/SEE_snowplow.pdf
http://www.erdc.usace.army.mil/pls/erdcpub/docs/erdc/images/SEE_snowplow.pdf
UnimogMike
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Thank you BBF I am finally registered and on the BB. It was purchased from DRMO at Fort Brag. Unlike SEE or HMMH models this one came with permanently mounted bed with drop sides and pintle hook mount on the front as well. The front mounts do not look like the ones on SEE tractor, so I believe it was manufactured that way and was not modified.
The official Freight liner number is FLU419 and Benz number is 419.10 This is the only model I have seen with this configuration so far.
Thank you all for your help.
The official Freight liner number is FLU419 and Benz number is 419.10 This is the only model I have seen with this configuration so far.
Thank you all for your help.
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Sorry, Mike. I may have run the bid up on you. I'm glad an SS guy got it though.
So, why do you think the injection pump is bad? Are you getting fuel to the IP? If it has been sitting a long time the lines could be full of air and diesels don't run well on air as you know. If you are getting fuel to the IP, then try cracking the lines open at all of the injectors. That will purge the air out. Once you are showing fuel at the injectors, the tighten the nuts one at a time. Once you have fuel to a couple of them, then it should start firing on a couple of cylinders, which will make it easier to get fuel to the rest of them. It may take a LOT of cranking depending on how dry they are. It took about 20 minutes of off and on cranking to get my 8.3 Cummins fired up in my 923A2. Crank for no more than 30 seconds and then give the starter 1-2 minutes to cool between each cranking or you'll burn it up. A little sniff of ether will get it to fire for a few seconds and help get fuel to the injectors.
Let us know what you have tried to get it started!
It's doubtful that many FL parts guys will be any help. Jim Ince at Eurotech would be a great start!
So, why do you think the injection pump is bad? Are you getting fuel to the IP? If it has been sitting a long time the lines could be full of air and diesels don't run well on air as you know. If you are getting fuel to the IP, then try cracking the lines open at all of the injectors. That will purge the air out. Once you are showing fuel at the injectors, the tighten the nuts one at a time. Once you have fuel to a couple of them, then it should start firing on a couple of cylinders, which will make it easier to get fuel to the rest of them. It may take a LOT of cranking depending on how dry they are. It took about 20 minutes of off and on cranking to get my 8.3 Cummins fired up in my 923A2. Crank for no more than 30 seconds and then give the starter 1-2 minutes to cool between each cranking or you'll burn it up. A little sniff of ether will get it to fire for a few seconds and help get fuel to the injectors.
Let us know what you have tried to get it started!
It's doubtful that many FL parts guys will be any help. Jim Ince at Eurotech would be a great start!
bbf
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mike its about time
UnimogMike
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Thank you Chris,
Just to let you know what I have done to determine it is IP, I opened the valve from the gas tank to the engine, cleaned out the bowl with metal screen and made sure fuel was dripping out, then I opened the screws at the top of each fuel filter one at a time and using the hand primer pump which is located next to IP pumped it till fuel was coming out of the first and then the second gas filter, then I closed the filter screws. Then I loosend the tubes to injectors and moved them out of the way. I cranked the engine over for about 10 seconds and no fuel came out from the top of the IP. I then removed a plug in the side of the IP and fuel was coming out from that plug which is right next to input hose to IP, but still no gas to injectors. Then I had a freind spray some starting fluid into intake while I cranked it over, it started and it ran for about 2 to 3 minutes on starting fluid, but no gas came out from the top of the fuel injector pump.
Next I will probably have to remove the pump and see if it can be cleaned out or uncloged. I am thinking of presurizing it with air and injecting carb cleaner while I turn the gear while it is removed from the truck. Hoping it will clean it and I can get gas out the other end.
Thank you all again for your help.
Just to let you know what I have done to determine it is IP, I opened the valve from the gas tank to the engine, cleaned out the bowl with metal screen and made sure fuel was dripping out, then I opened the screws at the top of each fuel filter one at a time and using the hand primer pump which is located next to IP pumped it till fuel was coming out of the first and then the second gas filter, then I closed the filter screws. Then I loosend the tubes to injectors and moved them out of the way. I cranked the engine over for about 10 seconds and no fuel came out from the top of the IP. I then removed a plug in the side of the IP and fuel was coming out from that plug which is right next to input hose to IP, but still no gas to injectors. Then I had a freind spray some starting fluid into intake while I cranked it over, it started and it ran for about 2 to 3 minutes on starting fluid, but no gas came out from the top of the fuel injector pump.
Next I will probably have to remove the pump and see if it can be cleaned out or uncloged. I am thinking of presurizing it with air and injecting carb cleaner while I turn the gear while it is removed from the truck. Hoping it will clean it and I can get gas out the other end.
Thank you all again for your help.
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Hey Mike,
You don't really mean gas right? Are you using diesel and just calling it gas? I'm not being a smart-ass. I just want to make sure we are all using the same terminology to avoid confusion.
When you are purging air from a fuel system, the best thing to do in my experience is to just crack the nuts loose at the IP and at the injectors. That way when you finally get fuel going through the injector lines, you can just tighten the nuts and it will fire. There are extremely close tolerances in the IP and injectors. Working around them with the lines completely off could let some dirt into the system. The injectors "pop" when the fuel in the lines reaches a certain pressure so the engine won't run if the lines are loose. The inside diameter of the injector lines is very small so the slightest kink in a line can ruin it.
I wouldn't pressurize it with air and run carb cleaner through it. You might run the risk of damaging some seals or small moving parts inside the pump. I think it is a Bosch pump, right? Look in the phone book for diesel injection services and see if you can find an authorized Bosch repair center that will put it on the test stand for you. That will give you the most insight into the problem. Also, is the pump driven off of the cam with a gear? There is the possibility that something is amiss there. I have seen pump nuts back off enough to allow the gear to drift off of the key and jump time or just quit altogether. You might want to inspect that too.
Keep us posted!
You don't really mean gas right? Are you using diesel and just calling it gas? I'm not being a smart-ass. I just want to make sure we are all using the same terminology to avoid confusion.
When you are purging air from a fuel system, the best thing to do in my experience is to just crack the nuts loose at the IP and at the injectors. That way when you finally get fuel going through the injector lines, you can just tighten the nuts and it will fire. There are extremely close tolerances in the IP and injectors. Working around them with the lines completely off could let some dirt into the system. The injectors "pop" when the fuel in the lines reaches a certain pressure so the engine won't run if the lines are loose. The inside diameter of the injector lines is very small so the slightest kink in a line can ruin it.
I wouldn't pressurize it with air and run carb cleaner through it. You might run the risk of damaging some seals or small moving parts inside the pump. I think it is a Bosch pump, right? Look in the phone book for diesel injection services and see if you can find an authorized Bosch repair center that will put it on the test stand for you. That will give you the most insight into the problem. Also, is the pump driven off of the cam with a gear? There is the possibility that something is amiss there. I have seen pump nuts back off enough to allow the gear to drift off of the key and jump time or just quit altogether. You might want to inspect that too.
Keep us posted!
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Is there a solenoid on the injector pump that might not be getting voltage to let the fuel flow through the pump head? Or maybe the shut off valve solenoid is stuck in the off position? I don't know anything about these, is the shut off vacuum operated like the old Mercedes diesel cars? Just Brainstorming.