• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Update on my lift install!

CCATLETT1984

New member
3,507
5
0
Location
Saint Clair Shores, MI
I have the front almost done, just need to put the steering block on and attach the drag link.

The rear has been more interesting.

had to cut off the u-bolts and then pound them out of the spring plates.

The u-bolts that came with the kit were 1" too short (#@$%) had to get custom ones bent up.

noticed that one of my hard lines is snapped, will replace both (the other one must be nearing failure too.)

figured out what the wierd proportioning valve the hooks to the rear axle with the metal arm does, it keeps the rear wheels from locking-up when the truck is airborn. (will be removing it.)

I HAVE PICS!!
WILL POST WHEN THE JOB IS DONE!!

my 6" lift looks more like an 8".
 

dilvoy

Active member
733
25
28
Location
San Francisco, Ca.
That proportioning valve arm is there so when the truck is empty, the brake pressure is low enough to keep the rear brakes from locking up, especially in wet weather. When the truck is loaded, the brake fluid is allowed to flow at full rate so you can stop that heavily loaded heavy duty truck. If it's likley that you'll be loading heavy stuff up into that high bed, you might want to make the automatically adjustable proportioning valve work with the lifted truck.
 

mangus580

New member
6,010
282
0
Location
Western NY
I did this on an old truck of mine. all I needed to do, was make a bracket to go between the pumpkin, and the linkage, such that it moved it up equivalent to the left.

I would suggest attempting to keep it. messing with brake design is usually a bad idea.
 

BigWheelBob

Member
65
0
6
Location
Muskegon, Mi
It doesnt hurt a thing to remove it, also, your 6" lift looks like a 8" because your chassis is a 1 ton style, and that makes it about 2" wider than the 1/2, or3/4 ton trucks.
 

cuc-v

New member
7
0
0
Location
cv, ca
if it were me i would keep it...my buddy decided to take his off for some reason and he said there was a huge difference when braking hard, it was back on within a couple days!
 

Towman2277

New member
507
0
0
Location
Saraland, Alabama
I had the arm on the rear of my 84' GMC -K3500 and when I put a 2" rear lift, I took it off. The next rainy day I was loaded and had to stop, the truck didn't want to!! The front brakes locked up and it slid to eternity! Needless to say, I put it back on after the local repair shop explained what it was for!! Just my 2cents !!
 

ida34

Well-known member
4,120
33
48
Location
Dexter, MI
Vehicle manufaturers do not put useless stuff on a vehicle. This only costs them money. This is why airbags were not widely used until it was mandated. They only do things because they have to. They figured safety dictated the need for the valve so they put it on and this cost them money. If they could have gotten by without it they would have. Fab up a bracket and leave the valve in a working state.
 

CCATLETT1984

New member
3,507
5
0
Location
Saint Clair Shores, MI
I un-bolted it and noticed that there is absolutely no resistance when cycling the arm, shouldn't there be some assuming the inside guts are still working????

I plan on doing rear disc brakes very soon and will be installing an adjustable prop. valve in the rear.

I will be loading the truck up and doing some panic testing on a dirt road by a friends house. will see how the brakes work and then decide what to do. Also I am adding larger/ heavier tires, won't that result in the prop. valve not being calibrated correctly. (wouldn't it restrict fuild too much when unloaded, as the vehicle will have more rolling mass to stop.)
 

Towman2277

New member
507
0
0
Location
Saraland, Alabama
yeah, I believe the valve would work correctly in "stock configuration"only, so the idea of the adjustable prop. valve is a great one! That way you can adjust to load and different tire set-up, etc. Good luck with it, can't wait to see the pics!
 

dilvoy

Active member
733
25
28
Location
San Francisco, Ca.
If you're not going to use the factory rear axle proportioning valve, why don't you take it apart and let us know what's inside. I bet it is a couple of different sized holes that line up depending on position of the lever arm. It must have high quality seals and I'd like to know what they are made of.
 
225
1
18
Location
edmonton ,alberta
neat...

So your 6" lift is more like 8"....I can sympathise.my springs were so bagged that i seemed to gain a bit more than advertised as well.

Ive always loved the look of those old school ground hawgs.pitiful on ice but almost as good as a swamper in mud IMHO.I see you have hummer wheels as well...so the hawgs must be the bias plys,right?Looks sharp!

Oh...i see in one of your shots that you have an anti-roll bar in the bed.I'd bet you noticed as i did,that removal makes no significant difference in iether flex or handling.superlift springs are way stiff in front.i'm going to change mine eventually.
 

CCATLETT1984

New member
3,507
5
0
Location
Saint Clair Shores, MI
RE: neat...

Nope, they are radials :D

I have the 12bolt rims, so they can hold up to 50psi, much more than the 35pso that the tires take.

I regards to the sway bar, i actually have a set of the ORD sway bar disconnects, just havent got the old bushings out of the bar.
 
Top