Wheel bearing getting hot

[mbfd592]

I replaced my boots, axle seals, pinion seals, and wheel bearings on my M35. Took it for a test ride and the driver side hub was 130 degrees compared to the passenger side being 90 degrees. Took the driver side apart to look everything over. Everything looked ok. Re packed the outer bearing (grease that pushed out was a little on the dark side). Re torqued the spindle nuts (50 lbs and a quarter turn back). Put the wheel back on and took it for a test ride. Temp on the driver side was 140 degrees compared to 98 on the passenger side. All the rears were around 115 degrees. When I repacked the outer bearing it didn’t feel like it was spinning right. I thought it was just from all the grease on my hands. I feel like I might have gotten a bad bearing or is there something else I can look for? I would appreciate any suggestions on what to look for. Thank you

 

[Gypsyman]

If it didn’t feel right in any way I would pull it, degrease it, and give it a thorough inspection. If you have any doubt at all replace it. The cost of a bearing is a lot less than what it will take with it on its way out.

 

[mbfd592]

If it didn’t feel right in any way I would pull it, degrease it, and give it a thorough inspection. If you have any doubt at all replace it. The cost of a bearing is a lot less than what it will take with it on its way out.

Yup. Plan on pulling everything apart again tomorrow

 

[cattlerepairman]

Aftermarket (New Star) wheel seals can cause the hub to run hotter.
Before ripping it apart again, back off the nut another quarter turn, feel wheel play and give it another shot.

Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

 

[87cr250r]

More grease equals more heat.

Those temperatures would not cause me any concern.

To alleviate yours, are the brakes running hotter on one side? Hot brakes can heat up a hub.

If you do repack your bearings, polyurea greases are best. Lucas X-Tra Heavy Duty is a polyurea and available at most parts stores. I use Chevron Black Pearl EP2 , Caterpillar Ball Bearing Grease, Mobile Polyrex EM, or Polyrex EP2 in my fleet. Bearings run much cooler with 10-20x the service interval for high speed bearings.

 

[mbfd592]

Aftermarket (New Star) wheel seals can cause the hub to run hotter.
Before ripping it apart again, back off the nut another quarter turn, feel wheel play and give it another shot.

Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

Aftermarket (New Star) wheel seals can cause the hub to run hotter.
Before ripping it apart again, back off the nut another quarter turn, feel wheel play and give it another shot.

Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk

when I re torqued the 2nd time I only torqued to 25 ft pounds and backed off. Before I took the nuts off after the test run I checked the torque and the inner was only 10 ft lbs. the inner bearings I received are timken. The outer were a different brand. thank you for the feedback

 

[mbfd592]

More grease equals more heat.

Those temperatures would not cause me any concern.

To alleviate yours, are the brakes running hotter on one side? Hot brakes can heat up a hub.

If you do repack your bearings, polyurea greases are best. Lucas X-Tra Heavy Duty is a polyurea and available at most parts stores. I use Chevron Black Pearl EP2 , Caterpillar Ball Bearing Grease, Mobile Polyrex EM, or Polyrex EP2 in my fleet. Bearings run much cooler with 10-20x the service interval for high speed bearings.

If it was both sides the same I probably wouldn’t think anything of it. the driver side just seemed to keep getting hotter when the passenger side seemed to level out. Will check the brake adjustment this morning and let you know. I did adjust the brakes to the military specs when installing everything. I used Purus Alletor heavy duty hi temp grease (that’s what we use for the machines at work). thankyou for the input and I will let you know the outcome.

 

[87cr250r]

High temp greases cause bearings to run hotter. It's literally in the name. Really, they have higher viscosity base oils which cause more heat.

 

[HDN]

When you installed your bearing nuts and torqued them, did you rotate the hub in the same direction as the nuts go on? I remember missing that the first time I did bearings on my truck and went back and reinstalled the nuts on that wheel. It's at least in the M35A3 instructions anyway. I imagine the simultaneous rotation of the hub and bearings with the nuts allows them to seat better on the spindle. I do that with anything wheel bearing now, even on my old 1-ton van. I'm not sure if that would make much of a difference with hub temperature

I also used NAPA wheel bearing and chassis grease in my bearings. I haven't had any problems. I even used the stuff in my washing machine when I had to replace the bearings in that thing (Samsung high-speed front loader) .

 

[87cr250r]

The purpose of torquing the nut is simply to squeeze the grease out and ensure the bearing is metal to metal. Then, you back it off to the next available notch. Any amount of movement is clearance added and that is sufficient. It really doesn't matter what you torque it to. Tapered roller bearings want 0.001-0.003" of clearance. You can check this with a dial indicator if you want.

 

[mbfd592]

High temp greases cause bearings to run hotter. It's literally in the name. Really, they have higher viscosity base oils which cause more heat.

Yes I know that. Like I said if both side were the same temperature I probably wouldn’t have thought anything of it. I did check The brake pads and they were a little tight with the feeler gauge. Loosened them to 15 thousandth on top and bottom and drove it again. Temps seemed ok at first but the driver side spiked back up to 140 again. I was going to keep driving it and see if the temp plateaued out but the alternator started smoking and went on fire.

 

[mbfd592]

When you installed your bearing nuts and torqued them, did you rotate the hub in the same direction as the nuts go on? I remember missing that the first time I did bearings on my truck and went back and reinstalled the nuts on that wheel. It's at least in the M35A3 instructions anyway. I imagine the simultaneous rotation of the hub and bearings with the nuts allows them to seat better on the spindle. I do that with anything wheel bearing now, even on my old 1-ton van. I'm not sure if that would make much of a difference with hub temperature

I also used NAPA wheel bearing and chassis grease in my bearings. I haven't had any problems. I even used the stuff in my washing machine when I had to replace the bearings in that thing (Samsung high-speed front loader) .

Yes I have my son rotating it while I tighten it. Thank you