Where do you tap for a multifuel heater fuel line?

[ida34]

I have a multifuel heater for both the cab and for the cargo compartment. Where do I tap for a fuel line? I looked over the manuals and can't figure it out. I assume that taping the regular line is not right since the heaters have their own fuel pump. The manual looks like it taps a second hole in the top of the tank. Anyone have answers or better yet pics.

Thanks
Chuck

 

[MilitaryRestoration]

some of the guys I know have been using the drain plug on bottom because how ofter do you ever need to drain it and it should never pick up water down there as well...other than that I have not seen one done any other way but I'm sure that there is...

 

[rmgill]

The fuel tanks have a tap on the fuel pump for accessories like a heater. Check for a small 1/4" plug on the top of the fuel tank. There might also be an extra fitting on the top of the tank for another tap.

 

[jwaller]

yup. I used the extra tap in the top of the pump for a pressure gauge. if yours does have this tap it can be drilled and tapped easily.

 

[M543A2]

I put a tee fitting in the inlet side of the engine fuel filters for my multifuel engine block heater. I did it because this was the closest point to get fuel in the engine compartment. I put an inline filter like you buy at NAPA for gasoline lines in the supply line to the heater.This might be the best source for your cab heater. The outlet at the tank pump top which is 1/8" pipe thread might be the best source for your bed heater. I would never draw off the bottom of the fuel tank because of contamination risk. If you do, be sure to put a water trap and good filter in the line. These heaters have small fuel metering ports in the fuel control blocks that are the size of a needle point. If they get clogged, you are down until you disassemble the control block and carefully clean them.
Regards Marti

 

[m-35tom]

so far you are all wrong. never tap into the engine fuel system for a heater. the port on the tank pump is for a test gauge only. the heater uses a pickup tube that goes in the pluged port on top of the tank. the tube does not go near the bottom of the tank for two reasons. 1 clean fuel. 2 if the heater uses fuel to that level and runs out, there will still be some fuel to run the engine. the heater uses it's own fuel pump and must be the correct pressure. too much pressure to the heater will cause flooding and may damage the very sensitive pressure regulator in the heater. also, never use compressed air to try and clean a clogged heater valve. take it apart and clean it with solvent.

 

[ida34]

I guess I will have to fab up a pickup. Anyone have a line on one or a picture of one?

 

[readyman]

Chuck,
Why don't you just run it to a jerry can. I'm still trying to figure out the fuel consumption of these guys. I saw that Austin(Aviation) had a jerry can spout attachment for 1/4 inch fuel lines on his Ebay site.

I'm using that flexible plastic tubing so I can route it to where I need it, fuel tank, jerry can, one gallon gas can. Wonder how long it'll run on a gallon.BTW have you fired yours up yet, how about those pin connectors, did you find any yet(Newark Electronics)? Pic of fuel connector options, flared, rubber tube, quick poly tube.

 

[cranetruck]

Fuel consumption is about 1 qt/hour and don't forget the "push on" style fitting, my favorite for low pressure applications....

 

[readyman]

Yeah cranetruck, the 'push on' swivel connector had to be re-machined to fit the flared fitting on the unit. But a flare to pipe thread adaptor might be out there too. Qt/hr... not bad.

 

[ida34]

I have one cab style heater and I am still waiting on the right box heater for the bed. I did buy some connectors and used some parts from what Bjorn sent me. The cab heater has an easily accessible terminal strip to attach controller connections. The box heater requires a thermostat or a 5 watt 68 ohm resister as a jumper. I still need to order the resister. I really want to plump it right into the tank so I don't have to carry extra jerry cans. I also need to find some wire suitable for using for the power. I am in the middle of replacing the floors and rockers on my cucv so this project is not a priority just yet. It will be more of a priority when deer season gets closer next year.

PS. I still have not forgotten the cartridge stops. I just have not found them again yet. When I do I will ship them out to you. I also have to send some stuff off to other people when I can get my stuff organized enough to find things.

I almost forgot. I do not remember who it was I got the connectors from. I did an internet search on the ms part numbers and came up with the place. I will post information when I can find the invoice.

 

[ida34]

Next question. Does anyone know where to get the push to test style light fixtures to fab up a controller? If I have to I will just have a light with a push button right next to it but having the real thing would be nice. Also, is the start run switch a double throw with the start side being spring loaded or would any double throw switch do? I assume the fan switch is a standard double throw.

 

[cranetruck]

I'm sure that I have an extra push to test light, PM me an address and I'll get one off to you.

 

[JDToumanian]

1 qt. per hour? That's better than I would have thought... I'll be looking for one of these heaters, as I'll be adding a cargo cover before Tower Park in April. I'll probably go the jerry can route... 2 cans would run the heater for over 5 eight-hour nights.

Jon

 

[readyman]

Chuck,
Thanks, no rush, whenever it turns up. A wrong barrel locking pawl kept us from shooting anyway.

JDT,
They're out there, Ebay NOS in the box $150. Fixer uppers are a lot less.

 

[ida34]

Can you close up pics of the thermostat. I saw the manual pic and it looked like the t-stat I have for my torpedo heater. I hope to make a connection to connect it to the heater. One that plugs in and out so I can still use if for the torpedo. This thing plugs into the extension cord and then the heater plugs into it. It basically cuts the power to the heater when the temp gets high enough. I got mine for about $50 plus shipping.

 

[readyman]

Chuck,
Sure tomorrow, then you just jumper the two pins in the 'thermo' socket. I did just that to see if everything tuned on. I hope my pump diaphram isn't dry rotted when I finally fuel this thing up.

 

[readyman]

Chuck,
You may want to use the thermostat on the thermo plug and not on the power cable. Is that what you meant?

 

[rizzo]

I took a pic of the fuel tank tap on my M109A2

I'll post it if that helps

 

[ida34]

I guess I was unclear. The stock use of the thermostat I have is to interrupt the power on the kerosene commercial heater I have. I don't want to chop the cord so I would need to rig up an adapter. I gave away an extra thermostat I picked up at a garage sale to my cousin. Now I wish I had kept it. They are $70 brand new. That motivates me to work on a setup to use it for both applications. Thanks for the pics. I can now make sure the insides on mine are the same. Does yours act like an on off switch or does it register different ohms to the heater unit? The schematic I looked act made it look like an off and on type situation but I can't figure out why you would need to use a resister as a jumper instead of a zero ohm jumper wire.

Rizzo,
Pics would be great. Is it just the tap or the pic up as well? Unless I can find one I am going to have to make one. I like the fact that it will not draw out the whole tank.

Thanks
Chuck