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adf5565

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This motor is actually a 6.5 optimizer so that’s why I went this route. But I don’t think it makes much of a difference. The 6.5 has a different valve cover which has mesh in it which is supposed to help catch the oil but some still gets through.

The old 6.2 banks turbo kit still used the 6.2 style cdr so either option will work.
 

79Vette

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Well, today I discovered the oil dipstick tube hits the 6.5 driver side manifold.

I massaged it into a sort of S shape so it will fit between the manifold and frame, but now the dipstick wipes against the tube on both sides and makes it impossible to read the oil level... Anyone have suggestions on what to do? Do I need a new oil pan with a different dipstick angle?

EDIT: it looks like the 6.5 uses a different dip stick tube that comes up between the block and manifold, so I suppose I'll have to make or buy one of those now


On a quick rant, every little thing about this project has been a massive fight... Oil cooler lines, fittings I put in for coolant and oil temp gauges, clutch slave cylinder, batteries, crossover/driveshaft interference, downpipe hitting the frame, injector to manifold clearance, manifold to frame clearance, custom turbo inlet tuybr with a CDR fitting, now the dipstick tube, and countless more I can't even remember. If I could do it over, I think pay $8k+ for a banks kit to not have to deal with all the BS of getting the 6.5 parts into a square body. At $3-4k the banks setup sounds like an incredible bargain to avoid all the crap I've dealt with, and I'm not even done yet
 

adf5565

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
351
637
93
Location
Tioga, PA
Well, today I discovered the oil dipstick tube hits the 6.5 driver side manifold.

I massaged it into a sort of S shape so it will fit between the manifold and frame, but now the dipstick wipes against the tube on both sides and makes it impossible to read the oil level... Anyone have suggestions on what to do? Do I need a new oil pan with a different dipstick angle?

EDIT: it looks like the 6.5 uses a different dip stick tube that comes up between the block and manifold, so I suppose I'll have to make or buy one of those now


On a quick rant, every little thing about this project has been a massive fight... Oil cooler lines, fittings I put in for coolant and oil temp gauges, clutch slave cylinder, batteries, crossover/driveshaft interference, downpipe hitting the frame, injector to manifold clearance, manifold to frame clearance, custom turbo inlet tuybr with a CDR fitting, now the dipstick tube, and countless more I can't even remember. If I could do it over, I think pay $8k+ for a banks kit to not have to deal with all the BS of getting the 6.5 parts into a square body. At $3-4k the banks setup sounds like an incredible bargain to avoid all the crap I've dealt with, and I'm not even done yet
Sadly the banks kit isn't made anymore so unless you get lucky and find a used one the turbo project involves alot of work. It'll be worth it in the end though!

With regards to the dipstick, the 6.5 and 6.2 pans are the same oil fitting and angle, just the 6.5 pan has the fitting roughly .75" higher. I have pictures in the post below. On my setup I ended up using the 6.2 driver's side manifold so other than coming up with a little extension piece for where the dipstick tube attaches to the manifold it fit fine so unfortunately I can't speak exactly to your situation. But there does look to be a 6.5 diesel dipstick with tube on ebay for sale right now.

 

Barrman

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There is no engine performance difference that I am aware of between the different CDR cans. The valve cover mounted one is just easier plumbing with the turbo.

I used a valve cover CDR and plumbed it to the vent at the oil fill and at the air filter. While keeping the non CDR valve covers.
 

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79Vette

Active member
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Location
Los Angeles/CA
There is no engine performance difference that I am aware of between the different CDR cans. The valve cover mounted one is just easier plumbing with the turbo.

I used a valve cover CDR and plumbed it to the vent at the oil fill and at the air filter. While keeping the non CDR valve covers.
Do you by chance have any photos of how you have the CDR hose connected to the intake? I barely have any space between the front of the turbo and the batteries. I already bought new smaller batteries and have them less than half an inch from the inside of the front clip, but there still don't seem to be any available 3" U bends that will fit so I need to run the air cleaner straight out the front of the compressor.

If I put 90 degree fittings on the heater hose that might get me another 2-3" to mofe the air filter forward and squeeze in a short straight aluminum section with a 1" fitting for the CDR welded into it...

The intake tube from the $350 S&B intake box is the only one that looks like it might work, but even that would be tight and it's hard to tell without buying it to test.
 

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