Wire HELL

[sixfeathers]

I wish they had made the plugs out of a good silicone instead of cheap ass rubber. They are rotted and a pita to replace/ I was replaceing gauges and some of the rubbers broke.. oh my...Now my connections are all screwed up.. now the only gauges that work are the spedo and the rev.. Damn it..

I cant afford right now to spend 300.00 for a new harness.. So anyone have some rubbers to throw around or discard?

Why are the wirews not insu;lated with plastic? why fabric tha rots and then causes a ZAP .. ouch that hurt..

 

[GoHot229]

Heres a trick for rubber plugs on the MV's or anything for that matter: use liberal amounts of WD40 to remove them, after letting it set a bit, and with a bit of patience and a ginger hand you are likely to get them unpluged intact. Once off the rubber plugs can be put in boiling water in a pan and heated for a couple minuates in the boiling water. At that point you will notice the pliability will have returned to the rubber, though you might only have a limmited time to replug them back before they resume their HARD natures again. Sometimes a 'boil' will soften them and they will remain that way with an application of WD. Hope this help, I'v employed this procedure on complete wiring harnesses with a 99% degree of sucess at softening the very aged rubber coatings and plugs, along with various 'boots' for manifolds to carbs and rubber covers, what have you. I learned, discovered this in the process or restoring many'a Bultaco dirt bikes. Something else occured to me, its the heat that makes the rubber resilient again along with a moistening agent ie. WD. But the hardest part will be gettihg them unpluged, for that it occured to me to pree-spray them 'WD40' and use a Harbor Freight 'heat gun' or whatever supplier, and use heat to pre-soften them into a workable softness prior to removal, again patience and a 'ginger' hand is a must. Also another thing: the terminals may be coroded, likley, and can be cleaned in a pan of VINIGAR back to a bright shinny copper color, sans the gunk 'corrosion'

 

[ken]

If it's only the connections for the guages you need for now. Get a wire spider from saturn surplus. They are cheep. It connects the guages to the wiring harness. When you install it use silicone lube on the rubber and it will come apart easily the next time. Even if it's years later.

 

[sixfeathers]

Ken ,

Is this the one that I need?

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M35​

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Wire Harness​

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10896819​

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2590-00-076-6001​

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$45.00​

 

[GoHot229]

If it's only the connections for the guages you need for now. Get a wire spider from saturn surplus. They are cheep. It connects the guages to the wiring harness. When you install it use silicone lube on the rubber and it will come apart easily the next time. Even if it's years later.

I agree, I made a 'spider' from parts from the parts store, and I believe I had several bucks in it by time I was done makng it. I'v seen the 'spiders' for about $12-13 at Saturn, that and the fact I didnt then have ruber plugs after I built it but plain connectors. its well worth buying it as He says

 

[zb39]

Good to know.

 

[sixfeathers]

Thanks Guys. I just ordered one from Saturn.. I bought the six legged spider. Old school.

Now when I place this one in the truck Is there any certain manner or order they go in to the gauges? Can they be installed in any Gauge? Its a mess in there. Hopefuuly this will help clean thing up.

SS the Info Gods of All things MV....

 

[ken]

Yea, Make sure you install it exactly the way the original comes out. Or you wil have gauges not reading right.

 

[sixfeathers]

I believe thats why they dont work now.. Is there a master schematic of what wire plug is suppose to what Gauge? I can access the manuals on this computer. It doesnt belong to me.. Any one have a pic of what goes where?

Thanks,

Craig

 

[Jake0147]

The ends of the "spider wire" can go to any gauge, as they are all the same power source. Once you get to the gauge they have to go on the correct gauge terminal. The "spider wire" provides power, and the gauges get their reading from the various "sender's" which are a calibrated resistance to ground, based upon the parameter which they are "sending" to the gauge.

 

[hndrsonj]

The manuals give a very complete schematic right down to what number wire goes where.