would like your opinion

[mouse]

im going to paint my m1009 back to the orignal green, but i want to change the inside . after thinking about this,and trying to figure out what would look good with that FINE SHADE OF GREEN, i came up with this.first im going to use spray in bed liner on the floor . then i will lay down marine grade carpet with the end's bound,and cut it so i can pull it out( like a cj's) so it can be washed. the seats,door ,and dash will be done in a mock carbin fiber vinyl. last but not least, a custom over head counsel that will house a raido & maybe a cb .

 

[85-m1028]

a spray in liner is a great idea I would try and go as far up the interior firewall as possible and make it extra thick in that area "cut out some of the diesel noise" as far as interior goes the cut and bound carpet sounds good, I would try to cover as much area as possible again to reduce interior noise. I went with a black reproduction dash pad from jc whitney catalog and was realy impressed by how well it fits, then I took some special paint and painted the door panels black to match. I removed the door panels to put in new felt lining in the window track, it was easier to paint the panels. I will probably just upgrade them to black when I get the funds, but the paint is good for now! the seats could be upgaded to http://www.mastercraftseats.com/ they offer a woodlands camo finish very cool and very comfortable too!! thats if you plan to go offraoding alot! or there is http://www.wetokole.com/ for cool waterproof seat covers, I got a pair with woodland camo print for my 98 jeep wrangler. I am going with the mastercraft all around!! The carbon fiber look is a plus and I am looking into getting molds made to lay up carbon fiber reprodution parts for the interiors and custom fender flares so I can hack out some sheet metal to fit 40-42" tires with 4" of lift, "the blazer would probably only fit 37" to 38inch" but that will be a while []

 

[mouse]

Carbon fiber is cool there three ways to do it. there is a self adhesive vinyl , that is like shelf paper.with a little help from your heat gun to help mold it , it looks nice.2 you can also paint it .get a roll of the rubber drawer liner( the kind with the holes in it) . cover the part you want to paint and than spray it with gray. lift the rubber off and change directions and lay the rubber down(usually 60 t0 90 deg for the mesh efect). then spray on the black ,remove rubber than clear it. let dry and than wet sand litely and clear again . 3 you can get molding fome and make your part mold and than lay the carbin fiber.the only prob.with this is how to do it? ive been laying glass for years, but i can not find any info about laying carben. im assuming you use it like glass,but its to much $$$$$$$$$$ to goof up . [complaining] so if you have any info about the how to's of carbon fiber could you pass them on to me [^] . As for the dash , im going to take off the old vinyl and patch the craks in the fome. then ill lay down some terry cloth and paint on some resin. after it hardens i will have a good base to either glue new fome and vinyl or i can finish it off and paint it. one more thing ,i was on a web looking at house of collor paint. thay had a powder that you mix in your clear coat that makes it glow in the dark. [!] what do you think about a m1009 driving down the road glowing green :skull:

 

[85-m1028]

with carbon fiber you can either do a "wet" lay up with laminating resin if you put the resin in the frige before you add catalyst and then make it a hot bach with lots of catlyst you can apply your resins and not have exessive runing, then after you pull it out of the mold add a couple of coats of finish resin and sand + polish, practice runs on simpler stuff will help to get the feel of resin flow and set times, rolls of twill or satin weave in a lower weight ratio can work effectively and cost about half the price per yard as the heavier stuctural type CF you dont really need the heavy duty stuff. Then there's prepreg which is where the matting already has the the resin infused, this makes the lay-up easier but can be tougher to build up after removing from the mold!! the vinyl stuff just doesnt do it for me once you've seen real CF peices there is no substitute. A freind of mine makes CF snowboards and they look realy cool!! :scool: and are the best boards I ride super strong and realy snappy!! http://hvsnowboards.com/ .. Glow in the dark paint?? sound a little bling bling, you'd just need some 22" rims with spinners to go with the paint!! but on the other if you ever broke down in the middle of nowhere it wouldn't be that hard to find you from the air!! :smilewinkgrin:

 

[mouse]

can you say pimp my ride :scool: . if i wanted to laminate a part , just for effect. what do i need to do,and what do i need

 

[85-m1028]

well a quick search and I found this http://dragonplate.com/ kind of a cool concept it looks like they only have 2' x 2' squares but says that you can order custom sizes. A little more $ than the vinyl stuff but it is the real thing, just do a search type in carbon fiber and see what you find I'm sure there is a local supplier somewhere around your area, just look at the different weaves, weights and sizes. they should also be able to provide the resin matrix to lay it up with as well, I think that doing mock overlay like on the dash is a great idea just smooth the surface and fill cracks with bondo, cut the cloth and do a dry lay up "give about 1/2" extra cloth on edges" you can trim extra off once it sets up, make sure to wrap around all egdes ^ to prevent it from delaminating down the road, use a brush to apply thincoat on dash at the same time someone esle shoud be applying a thin coat to the cloth, mate the two resin applied sides together and gently straighten and smooth "no bubbles" thats the hard part! then apply a coat or coats of resin over the top. POINTERS 1 removing dash from vehicle will make it alot easier just keep it as close to the original or installed possition as possible. 2 clean, cool, and preped work place, lots of latex gloves, disposable containers and brushes. 3. with mock lay ups use just enough catalyst to set off the resin trust me you'll need the working time. 4. dry or cloth only layups are crucial to figuring any hard cuts and wraps, you don't want to be trying to figure this out while your resin is going off!! 5. good luck and god speed, if any does this I wana see pics!! :yeah: