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XM211 driveline binding up?

AMGeneral

Well-known member
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Location
Connelly Springs, NC
Ok,seeing as I have very little "road time" behind the wheel of a GMC deuce,I have a question to pose.......

My GMC seems to be "sluggish" when starting out, almost like the driveline is binding up or under load, It's more noticeable in high range vs low.

I know most automatics will "creep" forward in drive,just with the engine idling,but the GMC will stand still in High and barely move in low at idle,warm or cold.

I have checked the following.....

Brakes for dragging,all of them are free,even the parking brake,none hotter than the rest after driving.

T-case front axle engagement linkage,everything working as it should.

The trans output shaft turns freely with the t-case disengaged,no problems there.

Winch PTO is definetly disengaged.

Tires are basically the same diameter all around(worn out).

I HAVE NOT removed the front driveshaft yet and driven it without it.

Anything I am missing?
 

M215

Member
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Location
Spotsylvania, Virginia
I would try removing the front drive shaft first. Maybe removing one of the rear axle shafts next? Our M215 will roll in low when you take your foot off the brakes, high takes a little blip of the throttle to roll.
Karl
 

hendersond

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Galesville, WI
I had the same feeling when I drove the M220 home this summer. It felt like someone was standing on the brakes and I would give her more gas to compensate. It felt like the truck just plain got heavy. It kept getting worse and then all was good. I was sure the airpack was pushing the brakes on sometimes. What I remember most was it took a lot to get it up to speed sometimes and then it would just scream down the highway 63mph. I spent a lot of time trying to figure it out along the freeway. I'd give her the berries and once and a great while she would backfire once. I laid underthat thing in every off ramp turning driveshafts, and cracking bleeders open, feeling drums and backing plates for heat. Finally at 500 miles from home, I realized the fuel pump was giving out. I swore it was a brake problem or binding.

Tore the pump down and there was a broken brush.

New 24v inline pump from O'reilly's ($50), solder the bleed back holes shut and she really gets up and goes now. The idle speed increased by about 400 rpm, had to turn it down.

You ever have your wife steer a car while you pull it with a log chain and wife gets on the brakes a little hard because she got scared? That is exactly what it felt like.
 
Last edited:

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
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Edmonton, Canada
binding

you pull it with a log chain and wife
Man I gotta read slower, I thought you said 'when you dragged the wife', whew.

AMGeneral, Mine feels heavy and idles real low so I need to pedal her to get it to roll in high range. I can throw it in neutral on a slight incline and she starts moving on her own but what you describe is what I drive, a little drag on start-up.

I'm hoping my issue is normal rather then cone clutch, trani related.

Try some slight incline rolls in neutral, air tanks full engine off and listen. A cool troubleshooting part is you can remove 2 drive-shafts at a time and still test drive to start eliminating binding pinions, dry u's or slip shafts.

Dry or binding bearings might feel that way but you'd hear em' or feel heat.

All shafts can be removed and just run the trani. There's a trouble shooting section in 9-8025-2. JATONKA's M135-211 TM  download page

Trying to find if this has been covered before, like most G749 issues have been, I found this and sounds like you've covered everything, wow.......http://www.steelsoldiers.com/early-deuce/25555-gmc-transmission-questions-updated-2.html

If you get a video you can take us for a drive and we can listen.
 

Stan Leschert

New member
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Location
North Vancouver, BC, Canada
New 24v inline pump from O'reilly's ($50), solder the bleed back holes shut and she really gets up and goes now. The idle speed increased by about 400 rpm, had to turn it down.
You learned from our mistake. 3 1/2 to 4 PSI seems to work well. The bleed back hole works like a preassure bypass in a fuel injected system, but if you don't know that it's there ... you won't drive far!

The PSI Reg shouldn't cost more than $10.oo from NAPA
 

butch atkins

New member
398
3
0
Location
Fountain Inn SC
There is a brass fitting that goes from the fuel tank to the vent line system that has a spring loaded ball in it that acts like a pressure release valve to keep excessive pressure from building up in the fuel tank,if your fuel tank goes "whoosh" when you crack the filler cap ,you have to much pressure building up in the fuel tank.You have to take the fitting off of the tank,clean it good and it will really make a difference.excess fuel pressure is a real mind f#*! .the carb on this truck is made for low pressure operation,you can rebuild the carb ,fuel pump,adjust the valves,multiple ignition /timing ops.inline pressure gauges.Truck drives down road,fuel sloshes,tank gets warm,always wondered whyexhaust was dry,black,smell like gas.changed all the tires multiple times.Dont ask me how I know all this.If your tank says whoosh on a warm day or after running a while,maybe your ball is stuck.! Good luck on all your projects.sent from my I pad in Germany.Going to Ciney ,Belgium mil .veh show next weekend
 

AMGeneral

Well-known member
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63
Location
Connelly Springs, NC
AM General, Any updates?
Not really,I have decided to flat tow it up to Hendersonville next weekend(Nov 10th) to be delivered to Chief 919,and I am gonna remove the driveshafts anyway before transport.


I seriously doubt I will ever own another GMC deuce after these 4,I just don't have the patience to deal with em.
 

pa.rich

New member
I have a 211 and it works fine. The high range seems to work better with plenty of rpms. And I agree it will creep along nice in low range. I think its just getting used to it. They do shift hard and it really is just the nature of the truck. But yes you have to give it plenty gas in high range.2cents
 
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