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New Member, My First M35A2

wolfmech

New member
6
22
3
Location
Missouri
Hello,

First I want to say this is an awesome site and great community. I've been lurking here for a while and the advice and information about M35's has been incredible. I figured I would finally make an account and join the ranks.

I picked up this 1970's M35A2 in running condition. I've been doing some small repairs, fluid changes, and PMs as I learn more about it. It seems to have a case of "making it's own oil" that I'll need to address soon. I have a dozen automotive projects at any given time, but this is my first MV and it's been completely different! Very enjoyable so far.

-Wolf


M35A2.jpg
 

M35fan

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,152
3,938
113
Location
Arab, Alabama
Welcome to Steel Soldiers! And congrats on your truck. Post a few more photos, when you have a chance. If you've been lurking, I'm sure you know. But if you get stuck, don't hesitate to ask for help. Enjoy!
 

18operator

Well-known member
1,086
1,844
113
Location
Seville, Ohio
Welcome from N.E. Ohio! Awesome looking truck. The "making" of oil sounds like a leaking fuel density compensator. It's easy to bypass, and there is a lot of help for that on this site.
 

wolfmech

New member
6
22
3
Location
Missouri
Welcome from N.E. Ohio! Awesome looking truck. The "making" of oil sounds like a leaking fuel density compensator. It's easy to bypass, and there is a lot of help for that on this site.
Thanks for the tip. The FDC was already bypassed by the looks of it. It had the "looped fuel lines" strategy. I was going to do the fuel shut-off O-ring next simply because I think it's the easiest. And then the booster pump, and then finally the hydraulic head which sounds to be the most difficult.

So far I'm just keeping an eye on oil level after the initial oil change to see how rapid the leak is.
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,182
3,127
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
This is a good looking truck! W/W as well!
If you enjoy driving it, I suggest going for taller tires. 11.00R20 allow you to run duals if you want. You may already have looked at the suggested upgrades that make living with the truck easier and safer. Remote brake reservoir, front manual hubs etc.



Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk
 

wolfmech

New member
6
22
3
Location
Missouri
This is a good looking truck! W/W as well!
If you enjoy driving it, I suggest going for taller tires. 11.00R20 allow you to run duals if you want. You may already have looked at the suggested upgrades that make living with the truck easier and safer. Remote brake reservoir, front manual hubs etc.
Thanks! Do 11.00 R20 tires clear the front when steering without issue? I did just install the remote brake reservoir. I couldn't believe how difficult they made it to check the brake fluid.

I also just did the 3535XL muffler addition several others here have done. I plan to drive this truck quite a bit.
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,182
3,127
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
Thanks! Do 11.00 R20 tires clear the front when steering without issue? I did just install the remote brake reservoir. I couldn't believe how difficult they made it to check the brake fluid.

I also just did the 3535XL muffler addition several others here have done. I plan to drive this truck quite a bit.
No clearance problems with 11.00R20. They are narrower than the super singles so many folks put on.

Sent from my SM-G991W using Tapatalk
 

G744

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,593
3,494
113
Location
Hidden Valley, Az
You can run up to 12.00-20 tires without any problems.

11.00's are far easier to source, and help in 3 ways:

1...Better top speed.
2...Better off-road performance, like bigger shop casters don't find every crack in the floor.
3...Less noise in the cab at speed.

Don't forget, the M34 deuce came with 11-00-20 singles, and those Budd wheels show up from time to time.
 

wolfmech

New member
6
22
3
Location
Missouri
You can run up to 12.00-20 tires without any problems.

11.00's are far easier to source, and help in 3 ways:

1...Better top speed.
2...Better off-road performance, like bigger shop casters don't find every crack in the floor.
3...Less noise in the cab at speed.

Don't forget, the M34 deuce came with 11-00-20 singles, and those Budd wheels show up from time to time.
That's good to know. Are you recommending I run 11.00-20 tires on my current dually rims, or do most people swap over to low-offset single style rims? Or just user's choice?
 

G744

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,593
3,494
113
Location
Hidden Valley, Az
That's good to know. Are you recommending I run 11.00-20 tires on my current dually rims, or do most people swap over to low-offset single style rims? Or just user's choice?
As far a function goes, I don't think it really matters. It is about the optics & purists.

If you decide to go to singles, you'll have to flip the rear hubs to bring the stud flange out. It is a simple operation, just a lot of effort to pull the axles shafts, the hubs & drums, then swap the drum mounting plate and bearing races. Knock or press all the studs out and put them back the opposite direction. Then put it all back together. Your only expense can be new seals, maybe a gasket or new bearings if needed.

Remember to keep bearing sets together, as once they wear in should never be separated.

That is some great engineering of the old Timken company, making that possible without buying a bunch of expensive parts. Same thing on the 5-tons as well...
 

G744

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,593
3,494
113
Location
Hidden Valley, Az
As far a function goes, I don't think it really matters. It is about the optics & purists.

If you decide to go to singles, you'll have to flip the rear hubs to bring the stud flange out. It is a simple operation, just a lot of effort to pull the axles shafts, the hubs & drums, then swap the drum mounting plate and bearing races. Knock or press all the studs out and put them back the opposite direction. Then put it all back together. Your only expense can be new seals, maybe a gasket or new bearings if needed.

Remember to keep bearing sets together, as once they wear in should never be separated.

That is some great engineering of the old Timken company, making that possible without buying a bunch of expensive parts. Same thing on the 5-tons as well...

Also, the GMC M135 deuce and the M104 trailers came with the same single wheels.
 
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