• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Usmc m1030b1

Bradyrw625

Active member
124
88
28
Location
Texas
Started hooking up the front wiring and gauges. Once the headlight was plugged in the headlight and taillight came on without the key even in or turned to on. Seems like there’s a big electrical wiring issue. I’ll be working on that this week with a multimeter.
jjj.jpg
 

Bradyrw625

Active member
124
88
28
Location
Texas
Finally got back to the restoration bike today. I’ve been building a few other non-Marine Corps bikes. The electrical had the most issues. Prior to starting Bike 6’s restoration it wouldn't even attempt to start and none of the lights worked.

I finally got the headlight and tail lights to function. I noticed the brake light wasn't coming on. I just swapped out the bulb and problem solved. The rear blackout light, rear blackout light brake light, and front black out light all function.

Some people mistakenly believe that it illuminates (light the regular headlight) so that the rider can use Night Vision to ride. It actually just puts out enough light so that others wearing night vision goggles can see the rider. The rear has a functioning blackout light break light so that those following the rider can see when they are slowing down. See the videos below if your interested in how they function.

Rear Blackout Light
Front Blackout Light

Nothing was happening when I hit the start button. I’ve found that the clutch safety switch is usually the issue. Most of the time you can clean the brass connections on the bottom of the switch. I’ve also had to replace one since it was broken. I tested this by making a jumper on the harness side where it plugs in. Then it attempted to crank and it fired no problem. Once I disassembled the switch I noticed that the top clutch metal portion wasn't sticking out as much as it should. Upon disassembly I saw that it was missing the spring. You can see in the picture below how much higher the version with the spring is. Swapped that portion out and now the bike will crank.
1.JPG
I was getting ready to start it up using my testing fuel bottle but the battery didn't have enough juice to really crank it over. I’m charging the battery now and will try again later in the week. Other issues when starting the bike for the first time could be an issue with the carb (I rebuilt it), no spark (I tested and its good), and I moved the choke from the handle bars to the carb itself. I use the Stead Engineering choke. Sometimes the spring is a bit tight.

I also tested the fan by removing the wire that plugs into the lower portion of the radiator and grounding it to the engine block. Then turn the key to “ON” and the fan should kick on.
 
Last edited:

Bradyrw625

Active member
124
88
28
Location
Texas
I went ahead and painted two tanks with Monstaliner. It turned out ok but was a huge pain in the ass. Taping off the bolt holes / fuel petcock area was difficult since it required removing the tape after the second coat without touching the still wet tank. One is for the current bike (pictured) and one is for my tan bike (didn't get a before pic but it was a train wreck). On my bike, I originally used some cheap spray on bedliner from autozone that has subsequently chipped off. This coating is super tough. It will become more of a matte finish once it dries.



Originally these tanks were a natural tan color (like Bike #1) then there were some more green ones. The left over tanks have turned a bit rough in color. I was able to get some new old stock tanks for bikes 2 and 3. When the Iraqi invasion kicked off the method was to rattle can the bikes tan along with the tank. I’ve obviously painted the bikes tan but getting the correct and most durable color required Monstaliner for the tank. I’m going to let the Monstaliner set up for about 9 days before I install it.
1.JPG
2.JPG
3.JPG
4.JPG
 

Bradyrw625

Active member
124
88
28
Location
Texas
Got the tank on the bike. I installed the Raptor fuel petcock so it's now direct fuel. Capped off the vacuum port on the carb. The IMS supplied tank mounting straps are always ill-fitting so I’ll be modifying them. Just need to rewire the gauge to work properly, get the faring and side plastics on, and then its done. I also went riding on Carson National Forest this weekend.
1.jpg
2.jpg
3.jpg
4.jpg
 

Bradyrw625

Active member
124
88
28
Location
Texas
Sold the latest tan bike already. Decided to start on the next one in a week or two. I’ll be keeping this one and it'll be the original green color. From the UIC code on the inventory tag, it looks like it belonged to H&S Company 3/6 2nd Marine Division. I pulled the engine a year or so ago to do some work to it. It only has 1,718 miles.
1.jpg
2.jpg
3.jpg4.jpg
 

Bradyrw625

Active member
124
88
28
Location
Texas
Stripped the bike down with a buddy in one night. Just waiting on the paint and new parts to turn it into a roller. It’ll be the original green. Also finally moved everything from the three storage lockers to the garage in my new house. Having lights, power, and an air compressor, will make life much easier.
1.JPG
2.JPG
3.JPG
 

Bradyrw625

Active member
124
88
28
Location
Texas
I busted the tires by hand. Apparently, this bike was ridden without a rear spacer at some point (sprocket side). You can see where the sprocket carrier was scraped away. I plan on replacing all 5 wheel bearings, front & rear sprocket, rear sprocket carrier, and front & rear disc (and bolts).
1.jpg
2.jpg
3.jpg
 

Bradyrw625

Active member
124
88
28
Location
Texas
Made some good progress. I replaced all the swing arm and suspension linkage bearings and sleeves, the 4 wheel bearings, sprocket carrier bearing, and the speedo grease seal. I also had to rebend the “ears”. Just for the wheels: new front / rear disks, new front and rear disk bolts, new sprocket carrier (old one got ground up from someone riding without a spacer), new sprocket, new sprocket nuts, new tires, new heavy duty inner tubes, new rim strips, and replaced two missing spacers. For the forks, new fork seals and 15 wt bel-ray fork oil. It came with progressive fork springs. I also installed a new chain slide, new upper and lower steering stem bearings, and Eagle Mike raising links. Just waiting on getting the air box done so I can get this frame into a rolling chassis. I also threw in the Eagle Mike subframe upgrade bolts. And obviously cleaned and repainted the parts.
1.jpg
 

Bradyrw625

Active member
124
88
28
Location
Texas
Started getting the bike into a rolling chassis. I’m using a used Progressive 465 shock I got off a forum member. These bikes originally came with a upgraded Progressive 420 shock but this one is trashed and not rebuildable. Other than that, the only other new stuff that wasn't mentioned in the post prior is new OEM for boots and Eagle Mike 1.5” handlebar risers. I’m missing the two spacers on the lower shock mount. Progressive is mailing them out but it’s going to take a bit. Once that comes in I can get the swing arm and rear wheel mounted. I finally finished cleaning and painting the air box so I’ll get that in tomorrow.
1.jpeg
 

A Seabee

Active member
87
126
33
Location
California
Years ago, I came across a fenced in area at Camp Pendleton that contained about 2 dozen of these along with a smattering of 250s. Wish I coulda trucked em all out of there.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks