M35A3 Questions?????

[Monkeyboyarmy]

Those vent tubes are too small to stay clean. They are only about 1/8" id and get plugged very easily with any oil or moisture.

 

[goodguyzy]

Why would the military have removed the CTIS? Has anyone else run into this before?

because its crap and the N/G didn't use the trucks much. easier to just ditch it.

 

[CobraCDR]

The Air Force left it on the ones they brought over to Afghanistan (which are the only ones I have seen in quite some time still in active service). This is the first time I have heard of a military unit pulling the system, unless it was just stripped for parts prior to going to auction?

 

[olewhiskey]

because its crap and the N/G didn't use the trucks much. easier to just ditch it.

Somebody put 15,000 miles on it,..........(?).

 

[Dustyh]

RIDDLE1, after we took all the CTIS stuff off we have very little if any wobble left. We are also running 60 psi.

 

[olewhiskey]

The Air Force left it on the ones they brought over to Afghanistan (which are the only ones I have seen in quite some time still in active service). This is the first time I have heard of a military unit pulling the system, unless it was just stripped for parts prior to going to auction?

Well there was another in the same lot "striiped for parts"so I guess there is a first for everything.Go back ond reread this thread? This truck was already checked out by MDMorgan and SEToyota and the only part taken off was the CTIS, on both trucks.
Started up and drove around the lot. SEToyota looked it over pretty good and tells me its ready to roll in his opinion and hes only built from the ground /maintainedup a halftrack,Greyhound,CCKW , M$ Sherman M3A2 and a Mil Hummer from the famous 99 auction. I will lean on their opinions it ain't a parts truck.

 

[RIDDLE1]

RIDDLE1, after we took all the CTIS stuff off we have very little if any wobble left. We are also running 60 psi.

Thanks for the info! I am going to try that.

 

[Rustygears]

The CTIS on the A3 does work but will not tolerate poor maintenance. It also does not inflate flat tires per the TM and that is true in practice as well based upon the design of the system. I just spent months going through my system to put it back in working order. I did not replace any parts other than PM items. The main cause of leaks is the evil grommet for the fill tube (like the valve stem) on the rim. It is a real chore to tear the tire off and split the rim to replace. This issue exists regardless of whether you keep the CTIS or pull it. I had to do 3 of my 6 to keep the tires full. Also, those michelins are sh*tty tires and death traps. There are lots of posts of major wrecks and near wrecks due to front tire blow outs due to sidewall failure resulting from age and long term underinflation. I strongly suggest for your life & the public's safety check the date codes and the tire condition carefully. I just replaced two tires because at least one steer tire was about to blow. No more michs for me

Also check the posts on replacing the motor oil used by mil instead of the Allison recommended fluid in the tranny. I'll also bet the air dryer hasn't been serviced correctly or in a long time, which will cause problems with CTIS and power steering. While on that topic, it's highly likely that the ps air regulator is leaking - how long does the truck hold air when shut off? That will bung up the air dryer and also cause CTIS issues. These are relatively minor maint items that all interact and cause bigger issues. Addressing them will make things that are easy to scapegoat actually work as intended. There's lots of posts about these and other A3 related topics. Folks have given much useful advice and I've shared my experiences on the A3 based upon my background with other projects with heavy equipment and vehicles ( Greyhound? I rebuilt a PD4104 drivetrain when I was 15 and then rebuilt a 4501 and a MC8 - that paid for a bunch of college).

It's a fun hobby and a great way to make sure there's no time for honey-do's.

 

[jpinst]

CTIS is a good system, and if you replaced all the grommets and o-rings on all the wheels it would probably work fine. However, I understand exactly what you are saying, and if it didn't look cool and wasn't a cool conversation piece, I would have ripped mine off a while ago.

If you do take it off, do so in a way where you could put it back on later if you wanted.

If you take off the CTIS, all the nuts and weights that go with it, and the shield..... Your wobble will be greatly reduced.

I agree. My CTIS has worked since I bought the truck two years ago. Just need to check to make sure everything is in place and not leaking. Erik's has all the part's you would need to fix any problems. I saw some other parts on ebay. CTYIS is really nice when you go from road to highway to dirt, all in a matter of a few hours.

 

[Deuce007]

The back tires on my deuce always go flat and I am wondering if it is because of the diaphragm above the 2 air tanks. It is always leaking just a little air. Any ideas?

 

[rwoods]

... No more michs for me. ...

What do you suggest? I replaced all of mine with the same - not cheap. I know the day will soon come again and GL sales of Michelins are always too far away or too expensive for me. Thanks, Ron

 

[Rustygears]

The back tires on my deuce always go flat and I am wondering if it is because of the diaphragm above the 2 air tanks. It is always leaking just a little air. Any ideas?

The CTIS system will automatically disconnect and isolate all 6 wheels. When you turn it off or cut power via the truck run switch, the CTIS manifold valve de-energizes and vents to empty all the tubing running to the wheels, isolating each wheel. If you have a tank leaking air ( per your other thread) it has nothing to do with tires going flat. 99% of the time flat tires are due to a rotten or loose grommet on the fill tube for that wheel. The other 1% o the time it might be a o ring or even less likely the CTIS wheel valve.

See my earlier reply on things you need to do. I spent a bunch of Saturdays tightening up loose fittings to make my truck air tight.

 

[Rustygears]

What do you suggest? I replaced all of mine with the same - not cheap. I know the day will soon come again and GL sales of Michelins are always too far away or too expensive for me. Thanks, Ron

I'm lovin the Continental MPT-81 in the stock size 365/80R20. These are available new from conti dealers and run new at about $650 each. I bought two a couple months ago and they had 2011 date codes and a molded in NSN, even though I bought them from a commercial dealer. Mounting them was a interesting experience, but after the first, the second was a lot easier and the next will be a snap. Did it all myself solo, including swapping the spare, dismount, mount and hanging it on the axle. It takes thinking ahead regarding what you want to accomplish because the tire/rim assy is too heavy to just muscle around.

 

[oldguy]

Balancing wheels and tires on A3 deuce

I have an A3 deuce (actually, mine is an M36A3 but the tires and wheels are the same as for the more plentiful M35A3).
My truck rides rough as **** at max speed on the highway (52 MPH) and starts getting bad at about 40 MPH. Riding behind the deuce in a chase car, I can clearly see the wheels and axles bouncing around in the rear. I am seriously thinking about installing the beads that automatically balance the tire and wheel assembly as it rolls but I have some practical concerns:
1. The A3 models have the automatic CTIS tire inflation system controlled from the driver's seat allowing the tire pressure to be made go up and down based on the traction and speed requirements. Does this in-and-out "breathing" cause a buildup of water condensate inside the tire and would this lead to the need to break the wheels down and bead blast and repaint the insides of the wheels to preserve them?
2. Does anyone know how much the tires (without the wheels) weigh; the makers of the beads say I should install 1 ounce of beads for every 13 pounds of tire weight?
3. To avoid having ceramic dust that would clog the tire valve, I am planning to use #4 lead bird shot. My thinking is that the bird shot is nice and round so it would easily roll as needed inside the tire, would not corrode inside the tire even if there is water condensate, is large enough (.130" diameter - just over 1/8") that the shot spheres would not clog the tire valve themselves. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Wayne

 

[PowerstrokeNC]

I have heard adding 3 additional wheel nuts on the counterweight side of the wheel helps cure the problem. From what I gather this is the nuts that hold the 2 piece rim together not the lug nuts.

 

[glcaines]

I have an A3 deuce (actually, mine is an M36A3 but the tires and wheels are the same as for the more plentiful M35A3).
My truck rides rough as **** at max speed on the highway (52 MPH) and starts getting bad at about 40 MPH. Riding behind the deuce in a chase car, I can clearly see the wheels and axles bouncing around in the rear. I am seriously thinking about installing the beads that automatically balance the tire and wheel assembly as it rolls but I have some practical concerns:
1. The A3 models have the automatic CTIS tire inflation system controlled from the driver's seat allowing the tire pressure to be made go up and down based on the traction and speed requirements. Does this in-and-out "breathing" cause a buildup of water condensate inside the tire and would this lead to the need to break the wheels down and bead blast and repaint the insides of the wheels to preserve them?
2. Does anyone know how much the tires (without the wheels) weigh; the makers of the beads say I should install 1 ounce of beads for every 13 pounds of tire weight?
3. To avoid having ceramic dust that would clog the tire valve, I am planning to use #4 lead bird shot. My thinking is that the bird shot is nice and round so it would easily roll as needed inside the tire, would not corrode inside the tire even if there is water condensate, is large enough (.130" diameter - just over 1/8") that the shot spheres would not clog the tire valve themselves. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Wayne

The A3s have an air dryer that should keep moisture out of the tires, assuming the air dryer is working properly. Mine wasn't, so i replaced it. Also, will the beads work when you have a beadlock installed? I would assume not. I run 55 - 60 psi in the tires and the truck runs much better and smoother with the extra pressure. My CTIS works great, but i keep it turned off because i like to run the higher pressure. One note is that when I have taken my wheels apart, there was significant water in each of them. This was partly due to my faulty air dryer, but also the fact that most of my airing up has been with an air compressor and not using the gladhand, which will supply dry air if the dryer is working.

 

[Hoefler]

You can air up your tires with a conventional air chuck-
just turn off your CTIS in the cab, Look in the wheel cover square hole-thats where you can air up the tires with a simple air chuck.
I have changed to Goodyears-no bounce and runs down the road well.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

I have/had two of my tires, the spare and one on the vehicle losing air. It was the grommet on one and is the oring on the other. Remove the shield and spray detergent water over everything when aired up to find the leaks, including the turret. If you have bubbles in the hole between the rims, it's the oring. If it bubbles obviously at the grommet, it's the grommet.

I took my rims/ tires off along with all the ctis and rim nuts, but could not break the bead and separate the rims, took the tire/rim to a local auto shop, $40 to disassemble the rest, replace the grommet and oring and put the rim back together. I'd start there instead of ditching the CTIS. Find the leaks and go from there.

(my turret threads were all buggered up on the first tire so far(causing the leak at the grommet, I used a file and a new nut and bought a couple take offs for the future) Haven't taken the second with an oring leak yet.

 

[autigers35a3]

You need the erik fix on balancing the tires. He has the lug nuts and the plan to balance the tires...
With 55 psi in the tires and Erik's lugnuts fix I can run 55 mph and drive with one hand.
... Best $$ spent..

 

[autigers35a3]

I have an A3 deuce (actually, mine is an M36A3 but the tires and wheels are the same as for the more plentiful M35A3).
My truck rides rough as **** at max speed on the highway (52 MPH) and starts getting bad at about 40 MPH. Riding behind the deuce in a chase car, I can clearly see the wheels and axles bouncing around in the rear. I am seriously thinking about installing the beads that automatically balance the tire and wheel assembly as it rolls but I have some practical concerns:
1. The A3 models have the automatic CTIS tire inflation system controlled from the driver's seat allowing the tire pressure to be made go up and down based on the traction and speed requirements. Does this in-and-out "breathing" cause a buildup of water condensate inside the tire and would this lead to the need to break the wheels down and bead blast and repaint the insides of the wheels to preserve them?
2. Does anyone know how much the tires (without the wheels) weigh; the makers of the beads say I should install 1 ounce of beads for every 13 pounds of tire weight?
3. To avoid having ceramic dust that would clog the tire valve, I am planning to use #4 lead bird shot. My thinking is that the bird shot is nice and round so it would easily roll as needed inside the tire, would not corrode inside the tire even if there is water condensate, is large enough (.130" diameter - just over 1/8") that the shot spheres would not clog the tire valve themselves. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Wayne

Add lug nuts not bird shot!!!!!