Glow plug relay question

[jdemaris]

How come the st85 are so much money? napa wants 65 dollars. What is the difference from using a dog head relay or any other starter relay?

The ST85 is a continuous-duty relay. Nothing about it makes it particulary good for glow-plug use. It is rated at a max of 80 amps. It cost more for two reasons. #1 - because it's at NAPA. #2 because it's a low-draw relay meant for full-time use, not just momentary. They are often used for trailers that you want to have power when being towed and the two vehicle is running. When the tow vehicle is shut-down, this full-time relay shuts down power. Also used for vehicles that use starting batteries AND a aux batteries. Full time relay allows charging all when runniing, but disconnects them when the key is off. This way the starting batteries are isolated from the aux batteries.

You can buy better rated relays for less money. I use the relays rated for 150 amps continous and 800 amps momentary. I buy them new for less then $20 each. Often used on Western plows with electric-powered hydraulic pumps. Work great for high-draw glow-plug systems. Some places sell them for as high at $60 but many others for less then $20. I buy them from Surplus Center.

Surplus Center - 12 VDC SPST CONT DUTY INSULATED SOLENOID

 

[doghead]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/42044-gpr109-installed-gp-controller-card-hot.html

 

[allenhillview]

HEY GUYS, Ever heard of Trombetta 98226-18(new part # is 976-1211-010) solenoid its whats on mine(m100 got truck last year been working well, all stock GP 100% as you know i read alot about this thread since we need one with us at all times to replace if broken so i'm trying to find out which one to carry as spare. I'm going to check that wep site Trombetta - Solenoids - DC Contactors - Switches.My closest distributor is in Greensboro,NC yes they are still made and ready to ship. Jury is still out on cost(14.02 plus shipping) but it is a good controller best available.

 

[jdemaris]

HEY GUYS, Ever heard of Trombetta 98226-18(new part # is 976-1211-010) solenoid .

The HD relay for $19 that I posted IS a Trombetta - model 684-1221-012

It's used in many HD applications including Western snowplows with electric-hydraulic pumps. For $19, it's a reallly good buy.

The Trombetta you posted has slightly less amp capacity then the one I posted.
The 976-1211-010 is a full-time relay rated at 250 amps continuous and 600 amps max surge amps.

The Trombetta in the picture for $19 is a full-time relay rated at 250 amps continuous and 800 amps max surge amps.

Both have insulated cases - which means it's two wire hook-up and not self-grounding.

 

[allenhillview]

The HD relay for $19 that I posted IS a Trombetta - model 684-1221-012

It's used in many HD applications including Western snowplows with electric-hydraulic pumps. For $19, it's a reallly good buy.

The Trombetta you posted has slightly less amp capacity then the one I posted.
The 976-1211-010 is a full-time relay rated at 250 amps continuous and 600 amps max surge amps.

The Trombetta in the picture for $19 is a full-time relay rated at 250 amps continuous and 800 amps max surge amps.

Both have insulated cases - which means it's two wire hook-up and not self-grounding.

Is it plastic housing or metal?

 

[jdemaris]

Is it plastic housing or metal?

Plastic. Many if not most of the bigger high-amp relays have plastic external housings - just like the high-amp relay enclosure on the 6.2 OEM starter-motor.

Note I'm using the word "plastic" as a general term. I assume it's actually some sort of high strength phenolic or Bakelite. Whatever it is, it's non-metallic. Same sort of phenolic material as used in the heatshields of ICBM missle warheads.

 

[Bairrfhionn82]

I changed the glowplug relay today. I used the ST85 from NAPA paid $48 well worth it. I am glad I did change it see attached photos 1) Old relay w/ rust and exposed/frayed wire. 2) Old relay, it has been there awhile! 3) While inspecting all the wires I came across a hole in the blue fusable link wire from the 12v bus.It was actually a burst hole,upon removing & cutting the damage portion of the wire off I discoved this section of melted wire(holy s**t!) I replaced the damaged section cleaned all the connections reattached to the firewall and continue to hook up the relay. 4) All wires attched to the relay and a little liquid electrical tape applied to any exposed connections on the relay. Also did the Doghead mod

 

[wes935]

After sitting for the last couple of weeks in the driveway, I finally got around to installing my new GPR I bought for $9.00 (thank you TAMECROW). The glowplugs cycled and she started right up.
There was no part number on the relay and it came sealed in plastic in an unmarked box. The relay looks identical to the old one Uncle Sam had installed prior to me getting my 09.
The sticker on the relay says: 12V/80%
duty S2-60min
inductive load 150A
Resistive Load 187A

 

[CycleJay]

Hello,

To those of you using this relay:
BWD S603 - Solenoid | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Have you noticed any difference in performance since using this relay?
Compared to the previous relays you guys were using before they went bad?

I can only afford this relay, and I can get it from my local O'reilly for just $39.99.

Thanks, Good night, Merry Christmas...

CJ

 

[M1008driver]

To those of you using this relay:
BWD S603 - Solenoid | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Have you noticed any difference in performance since using this relay?
Compared to the previous relays you guys were using before they went bad?

That's what I use with no problems so far.

 

[CycleJay]

Hi guys,
I just got the S603 relay from oreilly.
got it wired up, but made the mistake of not remembering which thin wire goes on the
top side small terminal, red or blue? which one goes on top?

I will not reconnect the batteries until I get this right, and I am in the middle of it now.

Thank you

CJ

 

[wes935]

CJ,
Red on top small terminal, blue on the bottom small terminal.

 

[CycleJay]

Wes,

Thank you, thought so, just was not sure.,

CJ
Merry Christmas

 

[doghead]

Actually, it does not matter. Either side for either small wire, will be fine.

The positions listed above, are correct for a normal stock configuration.

 

[Michael]

There's a guy on Ebay selling them for $9.00 each. I bought one 10,000 miles ago, and it still works like it should. Just look up 'cucv glow plug solenoid'. Hope this helps.

Are these $9 relays NOS military surplus or something the seller bought from China? I thought the days of buying surplus parts for 10 to 20 cents on the dollar were gone. Kind of reminds me why I got into this hobby 25 years ago.

 

[K9Vic]

The term "Ford relay" is very confusing and misleading.

The important thing with the glow plug relay is, it needs to have an isolated from ground(chassis) coil.

The original glow plug controller switches the negative/ground to the relay coil. Positive/+ is always "on" on the relay coil.

Normal "Ford" starter relays are grounded through their chassis/mounting bolt. They are not compatible with the original CUCV glow plug controller. If the relay has an "S" and "I" next to the small terminals, it is most likely NOT compatable with the CUCV GP system.

Test any relay before you install it, to be sure. It cannot have any continuity between either small terminals, to ground/chassis/ it's mount ears.

If you install the wrong relay, you may ruin your controller card and also burn out your glow plugs.

I wanted to bump this post as to how important what Doghead posted here, the Ford realy will not work and will cause damage to your GP card. It will work, but the driver alternator and GP relay will get hot and also the GP card will likely go bad. I was also only getting about 12v from the alternator and not the 14.4v. I had spent a week trying to figure this charging problem out and it was that ford relay that was t he whole problem. I rebuilt the alternators and still low charge. Last night I noticed the GP relay was hot, so I decided to change it out with a spare real CUCV OEM relay. did not work. So in short I found my GP card was now fried, but just the transistor was bad and I had the part to fix it from a long old post I read (Link below). So i replaced the $0.60 part and now my GP system is working again and the best part my truck is charging at 14v and 28v. I guess the incorrect Ford relay was activating, but the correct ST85/S603 relay was not because of the grounded base. Oh and I will be replacing the one on my M1010 that is the same incorrect Ford relay that was installed before I bought it. Yes I also had to fix that GP card as well with the same part.

So all this time I got the wrong GP replay and caused all these problems. So in short, get the ST85, S603 or those ones from eBay that are like $9.00 each.


http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/12809-who-knows-replacement-transistor-q2-gp-module-12034592-a.html
(if link fails, remove the "a" at the very end)


First picture is the bad transistor removed. The second picture is the fixed GP card with the replaced transistor.

 

[tankie88]

I bought this relay 2 years ago(just in case).It has made in USA stamped on the bottom and on the mount it has 5414 12v 8HA.There is no continuity between the any of the small terminals and the mounting plate.It's also mounted on rubber buffers as well.Is it safe to use????

 

[doghead]

It probably is ok to use. The other variable that could affect the GP controller would be the relay coil resistance. It most likely will work alright.

 

[tankie88]

I forgot to add that it is sold as a CUCV 6.2 glowplug relay by a German company who deal with CUCV parts.Oh,and it does have I and S marked on the small terminals.

 

[doghead]

If neither of the small terminals has continuity to the shiny metal mounting tabs, you should be OK.