MEP003 Voltage selector switch

[Harleyd315]

I was going to use my genset today and went from 3ph to 240 single with the selector switch. It didn't seem right so I thought I would turn it back and it was locked up solid. I thought I read about a similiar condition once but can't seem to locate the thread. Any Ideas? What to look for? Thanks

 

[3dAngus]

Was the system shut down before you tried to change the selector switch last?

 

[uscgmatt]

^^^^ What he said. If it was shut down open the cover and check the switch for visual corrosion.

 

[Harleyd315]

Yes, it wasn't running when I went to change the switch. I was in the process of hooking up an electric heater that runs on 240 single ph. Hadn't even started the unit up when it locked up. I thought I read about a similiar condition on a thread here. The writer talked about loosening up the bolts that hold the switch together and spraying contact cleaner into the switch, but I can't find the thread.

 

[glcaines]

The writer talked about loosening up the bolts that hold the switch together and spraying contact cleaner into the switch, but I can't find the thread.

I have never had a problem with my selector switch sticking, but what you remember, sounds like it might be reasonable. Have you tried searching on the Smokstak forum?

 

[flyxpl]

I have a 10k switch stuck like that . I lightly tapped on the mechanics of the switch while turning the switch knob . I got it to where I need it and left it alone .

 

[jbk]

ive had a few that did it. yes remove the a/c box side cover and loosen the bolts on the switch even one. i taped the knob and it would turn once i get it on 120/240 i dont mess with it again. dont force it. these switches get alot of dirt in them. if you wont to attempt flushing with contact cleaner you would probally be able to use it regurally.

 

[Isaac-1]

I remember reading the same message thread on here about loosening and flushing with contact cleaner so you are not imagining it.

Ike

 

[Harleyd315]

I took off the covers and exposed the rotary switch. With an angled wrench I was able to loosen the studs that hold the wafers together and spray contact cleaner on the switch. It seemed to help and I got it to move again and lock in the proper detents. It still hangs up a little and if you move the switch back and forth you here the spring click and then the switch moves. I'll probably set it at 240 and leave it alone. After I put the generator back together I had it running and hooked up to an electric heater for some load tests. Worked great 75% load, but after about 5 mins a pop and then an exhaust leak. I took the sheet metal of and started it up to find the #3 injector had blown its gasket. Any reason for this or is it part of the maintainence these sets require?

 

[storeman]

I've not seen a blown injector gasket. Not tightened down enough? Copper internal to the heat sink, or the gasket for the heat sink? One cylinder flooded?
Jerry

 

[Harleyd315]

Don'y know why the gasket blew. unit was running fine for warm up and then after I put the load on it for about 4 mins she let loose. All the injector hold down bolts were tight and you can see the exhaust on the side of the injector.

 

[storeman]

Have you pulled the injector?

 

[Harleyd315]

Yes I pulled the injector and you can see on the side of it the black soot from it leaking.

 

[glcaines]

Can you see any damage on the injector itself? If you heard a 'pop', it sounds like something let go in the injector allowing gas to escape and the leak is not past the threads. Are the threads intact?

 

[Harleyd315]

The injector looks fine. The sealing gasket is what let loose. This was the first attempt to put the genset under a load and it failed when the injector seal popped. I don't see any damage to the injector nor any threads where it meets the cylinder head. I am curious though if this is common on these gens, a regular maint item or just my luck on this unit.

 

[Keith_J]

I've not seen a blown injector gasket. Not tightened down enough? Copper internal to the heat sink, or the gasket for the heat sink? One cylinder flooded?
Jerry

I'm going with the flooded cylinder too. These are indirect injected (pre-combustion chamber) diesels. Pressure is highest in the chamber, too much fuel would over-stress the bolts, resulting in loss of gasket compression which would cause leakage.

Don't run the engine until the bolts are replaced with new gasket and polishing of the seating surfaces.

 

[Harleyd315]

Keith J, I had the engine running for at least 5mins before putting a load on it. once the load was applied it ran again for about 4 minutes. I would expect that the engine was fully warmed up by then. If the cylinder was flooded I would think there would be a lot of white smoke from the exhaust. not the case. It was chugging along at about 75% load and then a little pop and then you could see and hear exhaust coming up from the cover by the valve covers. I'm hoping it was just a faulty gasket or improper torquing of the injector. This unit has a new IP, new inj lines and looks like new injectors.

 

[rickf]

If it had soot on the injector then it was probably leaking in the past also. That soot does not build up in a few seconds, it take a while. flooding is not likely in a running motor, you would have to have complete injector failure and even then there is not enough fuel injected by the pump to lock the cylinder. It would just smoke like crazy.

Rick