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Extreme RV from M36a2

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
With the warm weather on New Years eve day I got a bit more done. I worked on the front pannels and on the back. The front will have pannels on the drivers side and the passenger side. The center is going to be for the craw through. While working on it I had to post poppy and the puppy on security duty. I didn't want the competition to get all my secrets Ha HA. The back of the camper took a bit of thinking. I have always liked the idea of a toy hauler. I designed the back of the camper to be able to open far enouph for me to load a quad or dirt bikes in. The center door will be the normal every day door. It is 26" wide. The passenger side opening is 33" wide. Plenty of room for me to load a quad or anything else that may be a bit on the wide side. I also neede to install some locks. I can't get enouph saftey. I thought you guys might like looking at the looks I put on the front doors. I used regular double tumbled locks. That way if someone tries breaking the window, they still won't be able to ope the doors. I guess they could climb in, but my fat butt probably couldn't lift my self throught the window. I saw the Military vehicles.ca web site. The guy had some very good ideas. I might try to contact him when I start working on the wiring and generator stuff. Hope you guys like it. This has been a lot of fun. fat lady sings
 

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daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
I think I might have to pull the bed off the frame a few feet this spring. It is the only way I can think of to get to the front of the box to paint it. If any one has any ideas please let me know.
 

PROSTOCKTOM

New member
126
2
0
Location
West Central Indiana
I think I might have to pull the bed off the frame a few feet this spring. It is the only way I can think of to get to the front of the box to paint it. If any one has any ideas please let me know.
Electrostatic paint it you wouldn't even have to move it back unless your

wanting to scuff it prior to painting it.

Tom
 

LV2XLR8

New member
44
1
0
Location
Oliver, B.C., Canada
Fantastic build!
I've got some experience with fab work on shipping containers (cabin building). May I ask what you used to cut your container with? I have had varied results with steel cutting blades for saws, zip cut saws and finally plasma cutters (only works when I grind the surfaces clean first).
One other point to ponder... Depending on what your climate is like, shipping containers tend to sweat quite a bit with temperature changes and humidity which you'll have for sure with people sleeping in it. My best results after quite a bit of research have been with sprayfoam. Gives an amazing R value and stops any moisture or rust.
Last thing, Love the mastiff! Keep up the good work.:beer:
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
I have mostly used 4.5" cut off wheels, bimetal cuting blades on a sawzall and the diablo metal cutting circular saw. They are about $30 but they cut great.
I used the other twenty foot section, from the 40' shipping container, as a storage shed and I haven't had any condensation on the inside of the shed. Dad says it is from the moisture in the air. If the container is sealed ( like the camper will be) there won't be any condensation on the inside. Once I get the front completely done, I will update on the condensation. As far as the insulation, I work with a woman who's husband owns a insulation company. I am going to meet with him on what he thinks the best route will be. Thanks for the info.
 

PROSTOCKTOM

New member
126
2
0
Location
West Central Indiana
What exactly is electrostatic paint?
A special paint gun that puts a really high voltage low amperage positive charge on the

paint gun and you put a ground on the part you wish to paint.

The paint just flies to the metal just like a magnet does to metal.

Plus side is very very little If any over spray and no real waste of paint.

I've had several race car chassis painted this way, but it's really a common

process that is used by many industrial paint contractors.

You can find lots of links to it on Google.

Tom
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
Tom, I am going to look into the paint. Thanks for the info.

Today I am going to put the decking in the cab over section and finish up some of the welding. I am capping the square tubing ends on the frame with 1/8" 2*2 flat stock.
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
I did what I set out to do this morning. I finished the cab over and the craw trhough. Actually I just sealed them off, I still need to do th finishing touches in the spring. I also did a awlsome paint job. I covered some of the primer and rust areas until I can sand it down and paint. Painting is planned for the spring. I need some more steel to start working on the inside. I"m going to get some prices on steel tomorrow. I am going to frame the bathroom and dinnett areas as well as the fold down bunks. But I am going to take a week or two off and do some long needed cleaning of the garage and sheds. Breaks are a good way to unwind and re-think ideas.:jumpin:
 

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daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
Warm weather is right. I'm getting it inspected Saturday. I need to finish up the floor on the cab over section. I need to prime and paint the under side. I want to line to the underside with maybe a vinyl sheathing or something that would be a good weather barrier. I might even try looking at Lowes at the shower wall linings. See what might work. The cab over flooring needs to get done because I won't be able to set a single piece floor in when I start the framing on the bath room. There won't be enough room for the section to go in. So maybe a few more pics this weekend
 

PROSTOCKTOM

New member
126
2
0
Location
West Central Indiana
Warm weather is right. I'm getting it inspected Saturday. I need to finish up the floor on the cab over section. I need to prime and paint the under side. I want to line to the underside with maybe a vinyl sheathing or something that would be a good weather barrier. I might even try looking at Lowes at the shower wall linings. See what might work. The cab over flooring needs to get done because I won't be able to set a single piece floor in when I start the framing on the bath room. There won't be enough room for the section to go in. So maybe a few more pics this weekend
Have you thought of having that part Rhino lined, Lizard Skin, or some other

type of spray sealer applied and then paint right over it?

Tom
 

daddy2

Member
276
3
18
Location
Easton, PA
I didn't know you could rino line wood. I would use herculiner, most likely, but it is definately someting to concider. I don't think the underside of the flooring will take much abuse, but I just don't want to have to pull it out to replace it down the line. Big pain in the rear. I'll read the liner container. I have an unused gallon that use supposed to go in the bed of my pick-up, an IOU that my brother never lived up to doing. Thanks for the sugestion.

Clayton
 

PROSTOCKTOM

New member
126
2
0
Location
West Central Indiana
I didn't know you could rino line wood. I would use herculiner, most likely, but it is definately someting to concider. I don't think the underside of the flooring will take much abuse, but I just don't want to have to pull it out to replace it down the line. Big pain in the rear. I'll read the liner container. I have an unused gallon that use supposed to go in the bed of my pick-up, an IOU that my brother never lived up to doing. Thanks for the sugestion.

Clayton
I never give out or collect IOU's that way no one gets hurt feelings.

Tom
 
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