30D36R Robin Wisconsin generator advice needed!

[SolitarySky]

Hello everybody,

I have recently acquired an 30D36R generator though Ebay. The unit is in excellent condition, the counter states only 90 hours and overall the only parts missings is the battery and the manifold heater filter.

I would like to ask you for some advice regarding a few things:

1) I'm looking for a battery to fit on the generator, would any Ah rating do or do you think there is a minimum requirement? I understand that the original battery was 24Ah but if I could do with something less expensive it would be better.

2) I will need to convert the 240V power plug (Nema L14-20 if I identified it correctly) to standard european one. I understand it has 1 Ground, 1 Neutral and 2 Hot wires, is there any particular arrangement suggested to rewire this receptacle to a Ground/Neutral/Hot triple socket?

3) The generator by default runs on 3600rpm and 60Hz. Although I can accomodate everything that will be connected to it to accept 60 Hz, having a 50 Hz output would be less hassle-free (in europe) and would also reduce both noise and the wear of the engine by reducing it's rpm to 3000. Do you have any advice on how (or if) this could be achieved without compromising the engine or other components? As I understand this could also imply some voltage drop but most european appliances run 220 so I guess it might not be an issue.


I have found both the original manual for the generator and the engine manual but do not want to start meddling with it without some professional advice.

Thank you in advance for any replies!
Scibor

 

[glcaines]

First, welcome to Steel Soldiers! You've come to the right place.

The specifications for the battery are for the Interstate Model SP-40. The specifications for this battery from Interstate are:

Manufacturer: Interstate
Product ID: SP-40
Amps: 425
Cranking Amps: 425
Cold Cranking Amps: 340
Voltage: 12 VDC
Termination: L
Weight: 18.5 Lbs
Width: 5.12 inches
Length: 7.5 inches
Height: 7.19 inches

This is a common battery in the U.S. and I would assume a compatible battery would be easy to locate in the United Kingdom. The engine speed for the genset is regulated by an internal governor with weights. When the speed reaches 3600 rpm, the governor controls the injection pump and shuts down fuel injection. As the rpm drops, the pump is again allowed to inject fuel. From memory, I don't know if this is adjustable or not.

I'm assuming that when you said that you had the original manual, you are talking about the U.S. Air Force manual, TO-35C2-3-499-1. The civilian manual is also available, so send me a PM if you need it. All parts for the engine are readily available from Robin (Subaru). The generator head parts are readily available from Baldor (ABB), as well as many frame and tank parts. There is also a great wheel kit available from Baldor.

 

[SolitarySky]

Hello,

Thank you very much for your reply, it was very helpful!


Now I shouldn't have problems finding an adequate battery, also with your advice rewiring the socket to euro standards should be fairly easy.
You have put me on the right track regarding the governor part, now I will need to check carefully the manual and see if the rpm can be adjusted (by looking around internet I saw that often this is done through a simple spring tension level). Anyway will let you know if I succeed and how.

Following the forums I have found both the TO-35C2-3-499-1 manual and the Baldor ones, plus the engine manual so should be pretty much covered on that side, thank you for your offer.


Hopefully I won't need any spares in the near future, I will just do an oil change and check if fuel filter needs replacement. For the wheel kit, it is currently mounted on a four wheel metal frame that is quite sturdy though not entirely professional, I'll probably repaint it as it's blue.

Thank you again and will let you know if in need of any more advice.

Cheers,
Scibor

 

[SolitarySky]

Hello,

Today I have tried out the generator and the results were quite satisfying. It started right away at the first pull, created right away a smoke screen in the yard but after a couple of minutes when it heated up the exhaust went clean. The generator part seems to be working ok, I have tested the sockets and all were giving correct voltages.

After turning it off though I have noticed that there might be a leakage issue with the injection pump. It is the only part that has the original paint scraped off and it's evident that the pump holding nuts have been tampered with. It also seems like a part of the injection pump gasket is a bit outside, maybe because of excessive pressure applied to the holding nuts?
I was wondering if it was a sensible thing to drain all the fuel, dismount the pump and check the state of the gasket, replacing it if damaged. We will be running this generator quite a bit this summer (probably around 30 days total running time) so I want to be sure to avoid any surprises.

Here is the picture of the injection pump head, a part of the gasket can be seen and it had drops of fuel on it.




Regards,
Scibor

 

[glcaines]

If you dismount it, I would highly recommend that you go ahead and replace the gaskets involved.

 

[ETN550]

Hello,

Today I have tried out the generator and the results were quite satisfying. It started right away at the first pull, created right away a smoke screen in the yard but after a couple of minutes when it heated up the exhaust went clean. The generator part seems to be working ok, I have tested the sockets and all were giving correct voltages.

After turning it off though I have noticed that there might be a leakage issue with the injection pump. It is the only part that has the original paint scraped off and it's evident that the pump holding nuts have been tampered with. It also seems like a part of the injection pump gasket is a bit outside, maybe because of excessive pressure applied to the holding nuts?
I was wondering if it was a sensible thing to drain all the fuel, dismount the pump and check the state of the gasket, replacing it if damaged. We will be running this generator quite a bit this summer (probably around 30 days total running time) so I want to be sure to avoid any surprises.

Here is the picture of the injection pump head, a part of the gasket can be seen and it had drops of fuel on it.




Regards,
Scibor

Here is a great link I found to the manual for our engine. Granted it is for the domestic version, but never the less very informative. There is also a parts manual in the same website.

Regarding the leak at the pump. From reading the manual the "gasket" is actually a shim. There are 3 different thicknesses of shim available. The shim determines the injection timing which should be 23 degrees before top center.

The manual says to coat both sides of the shim with 3 Bond when assembling. I use 3 Bond on my motorcycle cases so every motorcycle shop carries it, at least all of the Japanese ones do. It is a heavy duty silicone sealer that dries tougher but still flexible compared to standard silicone sealers.

Be extra careful to keep all dirt dust paint chips, etc, out of the fuel system when removing the pump and injector line when disassembling and re-assembling. All you have to do is pull the injection pump clean the shim and reseal it. Refer to the manual for detailed procedure. There is internal linkage from the governor to the pump so I doubt you can just pull it out. Follow procedure. The governor lever will need to be lined up proper when reassembling.

Regarding your desire to get 50 hz. This may be possible but you will see in the mnanual that this is a 5.5 hp engine at 3600rpm. It has a flat torque curve so output will be reduced proportionally when speed is reduced. At 50 Hz it will not have enough power for full load but that may not be an issue for you. The bigger issue is that the output voltage tracks the rpm. (must have some sort of crude voltage regulator) So as rpm drops voltage will fall off drastically. To fix this you will have to get into the generator end and do some electrical engineering to make the field current stronger at the lower rpm which will drive the voltage back up. I think it is possible but other with more electrical knowledge will need to offer opinions. I'm just an engine guy, mainly.

Oh, related to the speed reduction, there is no adjustment to lower the speed. The lever that is moved to the run position latches on the stop lever. by decreasing the travel of the run lever before it latches will reduce the rpm. This can be achieved by grinding a little at a time off of the latches. It also appears that the governor spring can be set in different holes in the linkages. Since this is a Japanese engine and Japan is 50% 60Hz and 50% 50Hz the spring adjustment may be there for that reason. Just a guess. I'm actually going to be trying a different spring position on one of mine because I cannot achieve enough rpm at full load.

Today I have got #2 of 4 running and it runs real good but the 12vdc charging is not working. This is really a great little gen set. One of the smallest (270cc) and most fuel efficient diesels (.3 gal per Hr at 75%) I have ever seen on a gen set. Much better than the modern Hatz replacement .5 Gal per hr at 75%) used to meet emissions.

Doug

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/pdf_documents/Robin engines/Manuals/1193S114.pdf

 

[quickfarms]

Interesting

 

[SolitarySky]

Regarding the leak at the pump. From reading the manual the "gasket" is actually a shim. There are 3 different thicknesses of shim available. The shim determines the injection timing which should be 23 degrees before top center.

The manual says to coat both sides of the shim with 3 Bond when assembling. I use 3 Bond on my motorcycle cases so every motorcycle shop carries it, at least all of the Japanese ones do. It is a heavy duty silicone sealer that dries tougher but still flexible compared to standard silicone sealers.

Be extra careful to keep all dirt dust paint chips, etc, out of the fuel system when removing the pump and injector line when disassembling and re-assembling. All you have to do is pull the injection pump clean the shim and reseal it. Refer to the manual for detailed procedure. There is internal linkage from the governor to the pump so I doubt you can just pull it out. Follow procedure. The governor lever will need to be lined up proper when reassembling.

Thank you for your advice, from the detailed size of the part stated in the manual I deduced it had an important function but now I will be very careful to follow exactly the procedure stated in the manual. I have managed to find the same 3 bond 1215 as specified in the manual and a good Moore & Wright depth gauge to do the measuring.

Regarding your desire to get 50 hz. This may be possible but you will see in the manual that this is a 5.5 hp engine at 3600rpm. It has a flat torque curve so output will be reduced proportionally when speed is reduced. At 50 Hz it will not have enough power for full load but that may not be an issue for you. The bigger issue is that the output voltage tracks the rpm. (must have some sort of crude voltage regulator) So as rpm drops voltage will fall off drastically. To fix this you will have to get into the generator end and do some electrical engineering to make the field current stronger at the lower rpm which will drive the voltage back up. I think it is possible but other with more electrical knowledge will need to offer opinions. I'm just an engine guy, mainly.

I have found out that this genset is very similiar to the very own Subaru RGD3300, in fact if you check out the specs:

http://www.clydepac.com/products/power-generating-sets/small-robin-generators/rgd-3300.aspx

the rated power output is lower for 50Hz, as expected, also the fuel consumption goes down accordingly. As I have found this model also offered from China (go figure) both at 50Hz and 60Hz with no apparent differences in price or else so I believe it shouldn't be difficult to do the conversion.

I have also managed to find this manual:

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/pdf_documents/robin%20equipment/MANUALS/PUB_GS1186.PDF

It has much information regarding the generator part but I still need some time to read it thoroughly.

Oh, related to the speed reduction, there is no adjustment to lower the speed. The lever that is moved to the run position latches on the stop lever. by decreasing the travel of the run lever before it latches will reduce the rpm. This can be achieved by grinding a little at a time off of the latches. It also appears that the governor spring can be set in different holes in the linkages. Since this is a Japanese engine and Japan is 50% 60Hz and 50% 50Hz the spring adjustment may be there for that reason. Just a guess. I'm actually going to be trying a different spring position on one of mine because I cannot achieve enough rpm at full load.

I too noticed the additional holes but I'm trying to find some more info before making any changes. I have sent an email to Subaru Industrial regarding this matter and I hope they answer me soon.

Scibor

 

[glcaines]

The generator head on the 30D36R is made by Baldor and is a standard commercial item. I was able to obtain the original military manuals by contacting Andrew Spencer at Baldor. He was very helpful and since Baldor sells generators globally, he may be able to provide assistance. His contact information is:

Baldor Customer Service
Generator Sales
+1 770-772-7000http://www.steelsoldiers.com/#
aspencer@baldor.com