• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Doghead relay mod not needed after July 1985 production

Smokinyoda

Member
657
8
18
Location
Franklin, NC
This is how the Air Force solved the bad relay problem in my '86 M1009. Guess they never heard of the DH mod?:mrgreen:

Cant tell by the pic but the plug and the 2 wires experienced a definite "meltdown". At least the truck came with a new starter!:beer:
 

Attachments

Last edited:

1 Patriot-of-many

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,186
86
48
Location
Zimmerman MN
Went to do the Doghead relay mod, Army must have experienced a runaway

I finally got around to doing the relay mod only to find the Army already did a replacement. Should I still do the mod or is this relay suitable that they already put in.

2nd What the heck are all these other capped off connections? For the radios?

David meats Goliath....
 

1 Patriot-of-many

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,186
86
48
Location
Zimmerman MN
Can you add this to the other thread then? Or should I delete it and addon? Don't you want to be popular? Have your name in history :)
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
Replace it. You have no idea what it really is and when it was installed.

For your second question:

GEN2 realy, 24v Voltmeter Relay and the Diagnositic system Tach Buffer
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/50551-cucv-switches-diodes-relays.html?highlight=diodes

Geez I love this site, but trying post pictures in the original post is quite frustrating
Why is that? Just click on the Go Advanced button and it works just like a new post. I just did it.


There really is no need to start a new thread for each of your CUCV questions. We have covered just about every possible issue many times. Just takes a little digging
 
Last edited:

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
Merged them.

What is the number on that relay? (I can't read it clearly).
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
15591718

Same number that is listed in the -20p 1992 edition
 
Last edited:

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
Looks like you answered your own question! More than once now!
 

1 Patriot-of-many

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,186
86
48
Location
Zimmerman MN
I really hate cutting perfectly good wires and harness.... Just wanted 16 times to make sure this is a good thing. Just got done. Doghead your "name" will live on.
Thanks for humoring me Doghead, I seriously didn't mean any disrespect, just wanted to make sure this was necessary, I suck at stripping wires and more than once in the past I've ended up with not enough LOL.
THANK YOU.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

1stSarge

Member
428
5
18
Location
Mount Vernon, Ohio
Not quite sure from the photos, but it looks like the purple wire might be where the red one goes, and the red one might be where the purple one goes. Or the other way around. I could be wrong.

For future readers, when doing this mod, make sure that you solder the wire ends to the terminal and skink tube the connection, otherwise a crimp on connector can become loose over time due to the wires and terminals heating up and expanding and contracting, creating a loose connection and possible arcing and sparking.

The connections also will increase their resistance to current flow as most metals' molecular make up forces their operating characteristics when conducting electricity into a positive temperature coefficient. Resulting in an increase in current with the higher temperatures. You can read about that here.

Temperature coefficient - Wikipedia

It is also a good idea to replace the GEN2 relay when doing this mod as the heavier coils in the new relay will draw slightly more amperage resulting in a stronger magnetic field in the alternators, due to them charging the batteries at a now increased rate, at the expense of more amperage draw to the exciter circuit to the alternators, causing a heavier load to be placed on the contacts of the GEN2 relay...


...and the GEN1 and GEN2 light bulb connections.


It also seems that there is an A3 in the photos.


.:rolleyes:
 

1 Patriot-of-many

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,186
86
48
Location
Zimmerman MN
Not quite sure from the photos, but it looks like the purple wire might be where the red one goes, and the red one might be where the purple one goes. Or the other way around. I could be wrong.

For future readers, when doing this mod, make sure that you solder the wire ends to the terminal and skink tube the connection, otherwise a crimp on connector can become loose over time due to the wires and terminals heating up and expanding and contracting, creating a loose connection and possible arcing and sparking.

The connections also will increase their resistance to current flow as most metals' molecular make up forces their operating characteristics when conducting electricity into a positive temperature coefficient. Resulting in an increase in current with the higher temperatures. You can read about that here.

Temperature coefficient - Wikipedia

It is also a good idea to replace the GEN2 relay when doing this mod as the heavier coils in the new relay will draw slightly more amperage resulting in a stronger magnetic field in the alternators, due to them charging the batteries at a now increased rate, at the expense of more amperage draw to the exciter circuit to the alternators, causing a heavier load to be placed on the contacts of the GEN2 relay...


...and the GEN1 and GEN2 light bulb connections.


It also seems that there is an A3 in the photos.


.:rolleyes:
Could you expand on the GEN2 relay as I always have to blip the throttle on the Gen two light on startup.
 

cpf240

Active member
1,479
5
38
Location
Free in Northern Idaho
Could you expand on the GEN2 relay as I always have to blip the throttle on the Gen two light on startup.
I believe that is operating normally. Mine is the same way, with both GEN lights, though usually the GEN2 light goes out before the GEN1 light. Both go out after giving it some fuel. This is even part of the procedure in the TM's, as I recall.
 

acmunro

Member
532
4
18
Location
Reynoldsville,PA
I just repaired a M1008 where the Starter mounted solenoid would stick on. First time I had that happen. It's a good Idea on any older vehicle especially a CUCV to have the means to quickly disconnect the batteries. As was stated before any solenoid can stick in a closed position.
I feel the doghead mod is a good one.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks