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LDS-465-1A Rebuild

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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You may be right; I see that crack at 3.00... now IS that the liner?

All I have here to compare with are 427 blocks, with the liners (rusted) in place, protruding approx. 1.5mm from the deck surface, with the copper ring (same thickness) still around it. (= old gasket style)

G.
Yes, that would be the lip that fits in the notch at the top of bore that seats the liner

If I was to pull the liner, I would look really CLOSE for cracks in the block right at the hit area, especially where the liner lip sits
 
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Clay James

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524
4
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Reno/NV
I got the head pulled the rest of the way apart today. The bottom of the head and the valves on the fried piston look fine. There's a little slag from the piston on the bottom and inside the exhaust valve but it should clean up just fine. The valves look very good, the seats are still shiny and there is very little wear on the valves( they looked especially good compared to the valves from other engines in the class.

Just the head got a lot of attention when I brought it in. It will be interesting when I bring in the rest of the engine.



Looks like something GOT into #3, DROVE the liner down, beat the piston edge up, liner looks cracked about a inch to the right of the hit, bet getting that liner OUT will be fun, if you found nothing in #3, check the exhaust valve and seat real good, as well as look for cracks at the same spot in the head and maybe even the block at the HIT area.

cracks in heads WILL grow over time, it is BEST to repair or replace, because you WILL in the end anyway. I'm guessing that the crack you mentioned was caused by what ever got into #3, also look at the UNDERSIDE of the head for DAMAGE, may be more then SURFACING will fix
The damage to the piston looked to me like heat erosion to me. The sleeve does look cracked but I'll examine it closer tomorrow. The cracks I've found on the head so far are very small since they can only go from the edge of the exhaust seat to the edge of the intake seat. I can probably drill and pin those pretty easily. I'm going to use dye penetrant or magnaflux to check for more cracks after I get it spotless.

Ron, I'm also trying to learn from this class and the MF experts onboard.
And to the OP: very good thread!

Not sure and confused now after looking at the pics again. :???:
Questions: can a MF liner simply be "driven" down without it or the block bursting into pieces? .... how would one notice that liner #3 sitting further down, just from the pictures attached? ..... couldn't this be the older style gasket with the separate fire rings? And them still in place.... ???


G.
It is the old style gasket and I took the fire ring off already when that picture was taken. I've heard of these liners being pushed out by the piston when the engine was turned over by hand.
Yes, that would be the lip that fits in the notch at the top of bore that seats the liner

If I was to pull the liner, I would look really CLOSE for cracks in the block right at the hit area, especially where the liner lip sits
I'll definitely check that closely.
 
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skidder

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Location
Winsted,conn
CJ while you are at it BAL the BOTTOM END pistons rods crank an flywheel an clutch SO to make it more SMOTHER RUNNING AN (checks for crackes ) Magnaflux everything !!!!, this is my next thing i am doing to my LDS Not to hot-rod it But make it more smother running JUST my 3Cents skidder
 

Clay James

Member
524
4
18
Location
Reno/NV
CJ while you are at it BAL the BOTTOM END pistons rods crank an flywheel an clutch SO to make it more SMOTHER RUNNING AN (checks for crackes ) Magnaflux everything !!!!, this is my next thing i am doing to my LDS Not to hot-rod it But make it more smother running JUST my 3Cents skidder
That's my plan. I'll tune it as much as I can and get it running really nice. I'll add boost and pyro gauges while I'm at it so it won't wind up with burned up parts again. I'll probably run the heads with the cracks between the valves, but I'll pressure test them to make sure they won't leak. Seems like a fairly common problem and I don't want to buy new heads just to have them crack in the same spot again.
 
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