M1009 rear window slips still.

[baldyviewdesignlab]

OK I give up.
Is there a glue or should I use silacone or what?

I replaced the rubber filler gasket that sits in between the sash and the glass about 2 months ago (lmc). I had hoped that after time the glass would seat and not move. But it still slips.

Should I use something on the filler to help it adhere to the glass. It looks like the filler sits in the sash just fine but the window pulls away from the filler rubber. Maybe crimping the sash, filler & window with plyers? I would hate to break anything.

Any Ideas?

 

[GoinNutts]

If I am not mistaken the rear glass is like the other operable door glass. The metal channel has to be in good shape and a tight groove( hardly big enough to insert the folded rubber w/o glass). Rubber needs to be totally clean, no lube, glue, water, etc. Stand glass upside down on a clean soft mat (a rubber mat is good) stack rubber welt centered on glass in both directions set steel track on top the rubber and have some one hold the glass vertical and with a dead blow hammer drive the track onto the glass. Yes a hammer and glass sounds scary but with the glass on its edge its 20 inches or so thick ( and 1/8-3/16 wide). It won't break if you drive it straight on. Done it dozens of times. The track should be clean straight and solid and if you have any doubt replace it because redoing it is more of a hassle.

Tailgate Glass Sash Channel Blazer & Jimmy-Classic Parts

 

[ryan77]

If your talking about the glass popping out of the channel i used 3m weatherstrip adhesive to bond the glass to that metal strip the rollers bolt to!!!

 

[unaffiliated]

An old timer glass guy told me a long time ago the trick to getting the glass to stay in the channel. He said to soak the rubber piece in motor oil then install it. I thought he was crazy but it worked. When the oil dried up the glass was impossible to move in the channel. This was on my brother's 1975 K5 Blazer rear glass about 20-25 years ago.

 

[corelokt]

Oil and rubber works. My father, an old school mechanic, uses it to seat tire beads. I do also, works better than the store bought stuff. It also makes rolling the bead over the rim easier.

 

[319]

Always listen to the old guys!

 

[baldyviewdesignlab]

An old timer glass guy told me a long time ago the trick to getting the glass to stay in the channel. He said to soak the rubber piece in motor oil then install it. I thought he was crazy but it worked. When the oil dried up the glass was impossible to move in the channel. This was on my brother's 1975 K5 Blazer rear glass about 20-25 years ago.

Did you pull the sash (steel track) out and hammer it on like GoinNutts suggested? Or did you slip it all in without removing the sash.

I was trying not to pull everything apart. I thought I could just slip the glass back in with new rubber. Will the Oil trick allow me to keep the sash in place?
Or am I still going to have to remove the sash and weather strips, assemble the sash rubber and window and replae?

I appreciste the advice all.

Cheers, and Happy New Year.

 

[Dock Rocker]

Subscribed. I have the same problem.

 

[unaffiliated]

I would say that pulling everything apart would work best. It would allow you to tap the metal rail onto the glass (as another member stated) much easier. I know it is a pain but I think the results will be much better if you do it this way. That is the way we did it years ago. If I remember correctly the rubber piece was very stiff, that's why we couldn't figure out how to install it. It just did not want to fold around the glass. Soaking it in oil made it very pliable and everything slipped right together. Keep in mind, my brother and I did this 20-25 years ago so my memory on the details is a bit foggy. I vaguely remember doing a vent window glass the same way later on. Hope this helps.

 

[GoinNutts]

Glass has to come out to drive the channel on. The channel is usually super tight and it takes a dead blow hammer and elbow grease to get it on.

 

[GoinNutts]

There is no "slipping" it together. If it slips together it will slip apart again. Hard to go on hard to come off. Easy on easy off.

 

[baldyviewdesignlab]

There is no "slipping" it together. If it slips together it will slip apart again. Hard to go on hard to come off. Easy on easy off.

Thanks alot.

I will rip it apart this weekend.
Advice much appreciated.

 

[Buzz]

I had to replace the front glass and bought a new glass and the rubber that is supposed to hold it in the channel, it didnt work very well. I talked to a friend who does glass for a living and he said to use Urethane. I filled the channel rolled the window up and let it dry and have not had a problem since. I would thnk it would work for a back glass.

 

[baldyviewdesignlab]

Glass has to come out to drive the channel on. The channel is usually super tight and it takes a dead blow hammer and elbow grease to get it on.

Finally got around to pulling the glass out & unbolting the sash.
The sash was in good shape, but obviously too wide (glass & rubber just slipped around).

I just used a pair of pliers to pinch the opening of the sash closed. or rather more closed. The rubber was lubricated with water and wrapped around the glass.
I had to use a hammer, as GoinNutts suggested, to re assemble the sash, rubber, and glass.
This was a scary process. No teflon or deadblow hammer available, i used some strips of wood to coushin the blow. Took my time and made sure not to hurt the glass.

Re assembled and all works fine now.

Took the truck hunting in rough country, no slipping.
Window up and down several times, still working great.

Thanks all who chimed in for your help.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Thanks, I'm having the same problem. My M1009 came with a sign not to open window. Found out why. The sash was all bent up at the bottom of the door, window was riding on the two teflon circles. Gear was partially stripped on the regulator. crank was all messed up. Fixed the crank.
Bought a new sash, rubber and regulator, put it all together, worked fine going up, first time I rolled it down the window separated from the sash. I crimped the sash tighter, currently soaking the rubber in water, will try your method.

 

[baldyviewdesignlab]

Thanks, I'm having the same problem. My M1009 came with a sign not to open window. Found out why. The sash was all bent up at the bottom of the door, window was riding on the two teflon circles. Gear was partially stripped on the regulator. crank was all messed up. Fixed the crank.
Bought a new sash, rubber and regulator, put it all together, worked fine going up, first time I rolled it down the window separated from the sash. I crimped the sash tighter, currently soaking the rubber in water, will try your method.

Cool! Hopefully it works out for you.
Some suggested motor oil to lubricate the rubber, but it was raining when I replaced mine. Water worked fine (it was already wet). The weather seal on the back of mine was fine, so once it dried (inside the gate) it was real secure.

Let us know if its successfull for you.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Semi. I had to do it three times, I crimped the whole length using a vise the last time, the rubber is split now and one end of the sash wont stay in, but it's holding for now. truck is currently in the shop getting trans seals, main seals and gaskets for both pans done..... Funny, After that the repairs will be more than I paid to begin with!

That sash, rubber, window sure seems to be a poor design. Guess the old timers can go to town here, me saying a MV has a flaw and all.

 

[acz62]

GoinNuts know anybody else with the part? I just checked your link and it is out of stock.

 

[Warthog]

GoinNuts know anybody else with the part? I just checked your link and it is out of stock.

He posted that over a year and a half. Don' t plan on him repling soon.

Just go to your local auto glass place and see what they have.

 

[phil2968]

LMC Truck Parts carries most all the parts for the rear window.