Receiver Hitch and Civvy Trailer Wiring

[Seth_O]

I finally buttoned up my receiver hitch and civvy trailer wiring. I opted to install TM America's 12v alt brackets. That was very straightforward and an inexpensive option. I love to have virtually endless amounts of 12v power on tap.

The hitch was a junkyard takeoff, rated for 5k lbs. Not a ton of weight, but I don't see myself pulling much more than that with the deuce and it was only $25, the new hardware cost almost as much as the hitch did.

The part I was most pleased with though was the wiring for the trailer. I opted for relays - using dpst to allow me to set up multiple kinds of connections. I ended up with 4-pin, 7-blade RV, and 7-pin round. I also installed an electric brake controller. Since I was using relays I didn't want to have them cycling every time I used the truck, so I built a converter box that plugs in with the plug from the M105 I used to bob the truck. This way the truck works just like normal, but when I need to hook up a civvy trailer I just plug in the connector and I have 12v signal to each of my civvy connectors.

I also installed 12v power receptacles since I was putting in the 12v anyway. I was pleasantly surprised at how affordable the mil connectors were from Erik's, it helped the installation look clean and stock.

 

[srodocker]

edit: nevermind see the bolts.

Nice brake controller! i may go that route as well

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Very nice! What hitch did you find that bolted directly to the frame rails of a deuce?

So you added a 12v setup, ran 24v relays for the lights, and ran a 12v feed each single light circuit? Couldnt you have just run a small DC-DC converter for each of the light feeds at the end of the trailer connector harness? You would have to run a larger one for the electric brakes but the lights dont draw many amps.

 

[STrider3]

I need to do this also. Thanks for the info.

FWIW The frame rails on the deuce are the standard 34" width so almost all hitches will bolt directly up provided the hitch mounts are parallel to the ground. Also a hitch with a drop of 7 or 8" work best so the ball is 17 - 19" inches from the ground. I have found several that will work. On ebay there is a receiver hitch that bolts directly to the pintle hook mounts but @ $280 I am looking for a cheaper solution. I intend to go to the auto salvage yard and get one off a totaled truck. I live near two salvage yards so it should be easy enough to find one that works.

 

[M35A2-AZ]

I used the Curt 15530.
The 15605 is a 2 1/2" receiver tube. The 15530 that I have is a 2".

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Thanks!

What are the heaviest trailers either of you have towed with your deuce?

 

[M35A2-AZ]

I have towed my 1000gal water trailer. It is about 10k.
The Curt 15530 is rated at 18k lbs.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

i have a Curt 18k in my Duramax And i've told somewhere in the range of 24,000 pounts with it, they are pretty strong hitches. I had a Reese 15,000lb on there before and it saw similar loads, it didnt fail but it did bend that back of my frame channel slightly but i believe this was due to having a 9ft utliity body at the time and the hitch being set further back.

When i installed the new Curt hitch i welded 1/4" 2x2 angle iron inside of the c channel and welded the side of the htich to reinforce it just incase. i dont think the Deuce frame will have any issues with that. i have a 22,000lb backhoe trailer i tow very rarely, but i would like to know im not going to have issues with it.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Couldnt you have just run a small DC-DC converter for each of the light feeds at the end of the trailer connector harness?

I assume he wanted the 12 volt system anyway for his 12 volt accessories, using it for trailer lights and brakes was a bonus, or visa versa.

 

[Seth_O]

I assume he wanted the 12 volt system anyway for his 12 volt accessories, using it for trailer lights and brakes was a bonus, or visa versa.

Bingo - I wanted the 12v anyway, so this was a good solution to both issues, and surprisingly simple and affordable. Shamless plug for TM America - his alt brackets are an elegant, inexpensive option that work great.

I have heard many times that the deuce is a very common frame width and there are a lot of receivers available. I was able to find many via the internet, but they were spendy and at heart I am a cheap guy. I was disappointed at how difficult it was to find the right receiver hitch at a junk yard - the VAST majority were too wide. I ended up pulling mine from a 90's Ford pick up I believe; it was the only one I could find and I counted myself luck that it was in good shape. Had I purchased new, I would have gone bigger, 10-15k probably.

 

[Seth_O]

edit: nevermind see the bolts.

Nice brake controller! i may go that route as well

Cheers mate; $15 for the brake controller at the same salvage yard I got the hitch at. In fact, it was so inexpensive I picked up 2 in case this one didn't work

 

[Tlauden]

Can you point us to the place you got the relays? No one around here sells 24 volt relays. People are actually confused when I say 24 volt?!

I really like your setup, I wanna do something similar but keep the box of relays and that good stuff in the cab, so its not exposed to the elements. And switch the main ground line so the relays don't function when there's no trailer. Do you think the adjustable hitches at Walmart would work? I don't want to pull anything big. Probably just a BBQ trailer occasionally

 

[quickfarms]

I like the relays

 

[Seth_O]

Can you point us to the place you got the relays? No one around here sells 24 volt relays. People are actually confused when I say 24 volt?!

I ordered the parts from McMaster-Carr: 7170K11 (relay) and 7122K19 (socket).

I really like your setup, I wanna do something similar but keep the box of relays and that good stuff in the cab, so its not exposed to the elements.

I thought about this quite a bit before the installation, and decided that the cab space is at a premium, so I used a junction box designed for the elements, and rubber-mounted it to the frame. It should be extremely weather resistant, if it fails then I'll go to a behind-the-cab installation, or under the driver seat maybe.

And switch the main ground line so the relays don't function when there's no trailer.

Not sure I follow this thought on the grounding - I wanted to do the same thing (keep the relays from switching when there was no trailer hooked up), which is why I used the M105 trailer plug. When I want to hook up a trailer, I plug in the M105 plug (you can kind of see it on the far right in the first couple of pics) and it provides the power/signal to the relays; so they're only powered/switching when I plug it in. That was the simplest way I could think of to not have the relays powered all the time.

Do you think the adjustable hitches at Walmart would work? I don't want to pull anything big. Probably just a BBQ trailer occasionally

Wal-mart hitches should work fine, just check your weight ratings.

 

[Tlauden]

Thanks for your input!!! I'm going to give this a shot. Like I said I REALLY like your setup. I won't go into details about my ground switch theory cause I didn't think through the details yet.

 

[Seth_O]

Thanks for your input!!! I'm going to give this a shot. Like I said I REALLY like your setup. I won't go into details about my ground switch theory cause I didn't think through the details yet.

Good luck with your build - feel free to PM me if you need any details or additional pic's.

 

[OverSizeHeavyHauler]

Id rather suck a 30-06 than jack with electrical....

you wanna wire mine up for me? Ill have the wife make ya some PB & J sammiches?

I reeeeeally really hate wiring and "stuff"

lol

 

[Kohburn]

how about a weather proof selecter switch in the back or by the brake controller to turn the relays on or off.