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Cucv Glow Plug Part Number for Replacement

RyanCUCV

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Does anybody have the NAPA part number for CUCV glow plugs? I am looking to replace mine and need the number for it.

Thanks, Ryan
 

cpf240

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Free in Northern Idaho
Does anybody have the NAPA part number for CUCV glow plugs? I am looking to replace mine and need the number for it.

Thanks, Ryan
Hi and welcome to the site!

The CUCV FAQ will answer your questions. If you want more reading material, a search of the CUCV forums will provide plenty of information.
 
479
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16
Location
Madison, WI
I recommend, as do many others on SS, AC Delco 60G. They're supposed to be self-regulating and non-swelling. You can get them at NAPA.

They have the fat spades though (1/4" ). You'll have to cut off the stock connectors (on the glow plug wires) and crimp on new female spade connectors (or grind down the spades on the new plugs).

And while you're at it convert the glow plug system to 12 volt. The stock system will "cascade." All plugs start out with 12v, but then if one plug burns out the system will increase voltage to the 7 good GP's which shortens their life and makes them burn out quicker. One by one as the plugs burn out the voltage to the remaining GP's increases more, until all your plugs are burnt out and/or swollen. I.e. 14 volts to 7 plugs, 16v to 6, 20v to 3, 24v to 1 gp.

You convert it by bypassing the glow plug resistor (big black thing behind air cleaner). Disconnect the red wire that goes the the glow plug relay from the resistor, cut off the end, crimp on a new ring terminal, and connect it to the 12v bus bar on the firewall. It takes all of 15 minutes, and is basically free (unless you have to go and buy a new ring connector).

There's some good 12v/GP bypass pictures in here: Glow plug resistor bypass
 

RyanCUCV

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New Jersey
are the AC Delco 60g glow plugs 24v? or 12v? sorry for my ignorance, but electrical is not my field of profession. if i put the new glow plugs in without the 12v mod is this ok? or will it take longer to "warm up" on 12v? any information will help.
 
I recommend, as do many others on SS, AC Delco 60G. They're supposed to be self-regulating and non-swelling. You can get them at NAPA.

They have the fat spades though (1/4" ). You'll have to cut off the stock connectors (on the glow plug wires) and crimp on new female spade connectors (or grind down the spades on the new plugs).

And while you're at it convert the glow plug system to 12 volt. The stock system will "cascade." All plugs start out with 12v, but then if one plug burns out the system will increase voltage to the 7 good GP's which shortens their life and makes them burn out quicker. One by one as the plugs burn out the voltage to the remaining GP's increases more, until all your plugs are burnt out and/or swollen. I.e. 14 volts to 7 plugs, 16v to 6, 20v to 3, 24v to 1 gp.

You convert it by bypassing the glow plug resistor (big black thing behind air cleaner). Disconnect the red wire that goes the the glow plug relay from the resistor, cut off the end, crimp on a new ring terminal, and connect it to the 12v bus bar on the firewall. It takes all of 15 minutes, and is basically free (unless you have to go and buy a new ring connector).

There's some good 12v/GP bypass pictures in here: Glow plug resistor bypass

Heed his advice! All plugs get 12 volts via the resistor bank. The resistor brings it down from 24v to 12v. To answer your question, 60g's will work on your stock system. you might as well do the 12v bypass. It's cheap insurance AND it will save you the headache of dealing with broken/swollen plugs.
 
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RyanCUCV

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New Jersey
Is it best to replace all glowplugs while im at it? the m1009 is an 86 and I haven't touched the engine in the 2 years i have had it. how long do they last? or does it depend on temperature, or how much you use the truck etc.
 
You might as well replace them all while you are at it. Your best friend owning a CUCV will be a multi meter. The TM will tell you what the acceptable readings for glowplugs are. I believe it's around 3-4 ohms but don't quote me on it. The TM will steer you in the right direction. You can measure the resistance of each plug to see if it is bad or good. I guess if you're cheap you dont HAVE to replace them all if they are good, but as a general rule of thumb, replace them as a set.
 
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RyanCUCV

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New Jersey
alright, and one question concerning the bypass mod, when I cut the wire and put it on the 12v lug, the other half that is cut, does that need to be removed? or taped up? what is that wire for exactly?
 

doghead

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You can cap it with a yellow wire nut.
 
479
0
16
Location
Madison, WI
Yeah either of those. I went the extra "mile" and removed the resistor bank all together. :lol: But a wire nut and some electric tape would work just as good.

Might as well just replace them all. Who knows how much more life the plugs in the engine have. They might test ok now but then burn out next week.

Is your truck not starting well? Or what's making you want to change the plugs? Not that preventive maintenance is ever a bad thing! ;)
 
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67_C-30

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Sweet Home Alabama!
60g's are good glow plugs, but I have become a fan of Bosch Duraterms. The Duraterms heat up faster, and last longer than the 60g's. The 60g's would be a second choice, but having the Duraterms in my last two 6.2's, I would buy them again. Either one blows Wellman, 11g's, etc out of the water.
 
479
0
16
Location
Madison, WI
I heard some so-so things about Bosch GP's. Maybe they were a different kind, not the duratherms. I like the sound of heating up faster. I'll have to get some when my 60g's wear out.
 
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