I Need a Voltmeter Gauge for a CUCV M1009 1985

[rizzo]

I tested the gauges and they work fine. The resistors don't show continuity, but do show 330 ohms resistance. I hooked up the wires and tested both gauges and they work when they are not in the dash panel. when I put them one of them in the panel it does not work. I think it may be the connection to the resistor. or maybe the position of the gauge. I am going to buy some star washers to make sure I am getting good connections.

 

[rizzo]

This just occurred to me. I when the gauge was hooked up I tested the voltage to the gauge posts and got 24v. I did not test the 12v post. that would tell me if I am getting the connection across the resistor.

 

[rizzo]

ok, I figured out what is going on.... sort of. When you turn the power off, both gauges will go back to zero and get stuck there. When I turn the power back on it looks like nothing is working. if I bang on the gauge a little with my finger it will pop up and start working normally. Any Idea why this happens? Anyone else have this happen?

 

[unaffiliated]

My gauge sticks all the time. I have to tap on it almost every time. Not sure why this happens.

 

[Andercomm]

Voltage gauge

Since I don't know - I'll ask - where should the indicator for the military voltage gauge be in normal operation - should it rest square in the middle between the yellow-green areas....and then would it move to the right into the green area during normal charging...?

 

[jawalter]

Green Zone

The needle on my gauge stays pretty much centered in the green zone after my M1009 is running.

 

[Andercomm]

Voltage gauge

That's what the manual says...mine however sits right in between yellow and grren on the border line...alittle to the right in the green after starting up - so I assume its re-charging...wonder what might be wrong if anything with the gauge in my truck...?

 

[jawalter]

I would suggest removing you gauge from the instrument panel. Get a digital multimeter and read the voltage between the 2 wires that were connected to the back of the gauge. If you get 24VDC with the truck running, I would say that your charging system is okay and the needle reading on your gauge represents 24VDC.

 

[mikelee]

saturnsurplus.com has gauges shows in stock N.O.S

 

[1ton cucv k5 turbo]

Question, I had picked up a MV volt meter, but it seems to be for a Deuce or another type MV that has anclosed guage panel, as the back of gauge is clear for illumation ( no provision for dash light in CUCV ) Do you also have to install the 300ohm resistor to used this in a CUCV?

 

[jawalter]

Voltmeter Testing

The safest way to check your voltmeter is to connect it to a dc power supply and slowly increase the voltage on the power supply until the gauge's needle is centered in the green zone. If it takes ~13V to center the needle in the green zone, and your vehicle has a 24V charging system, you will most likely need a voltage dividing resistor installed across the terminals on the back of the gauge.

With the vehicle running and no gauge installed, use a digital multimeter [DMM] to measure the voltage across the wires in the dashboard that connect to the back of the gauge. If the voltage is ~24V on the DMM and you needed ~13V on the dc power supply to center the gauge's needle, you will need a resistor.

Jeff

 

[1ton cucv k5 turbo]

jawalter,

thanks your your input.. my truck isnt in a postion to start and run at the moment, but i was curious, as this is what i have done yesterday... pulled old voltmeter from dash. confirmed voltage on a test battery ( 13.1) Used jumper wires and connected old voltmeter.. it went straight to red ( max ) did same this with new voltmeter and got nothing... needle wouldnt move... Hopefully going to radioshack to pick up replacement resisitor today. Curious why new voltmeter wouldnt show anything.

 

[jawalter]

The "old" voltmeter sounds more encouraging than the "new" voltmeter. Not getting any needle movement with the "new" voltmeter sounds like the "new" meter movement might be damaged. Do you have a bench top variable DC power supply to check the gauge movements? If not you could try connecting a series of D size batteries together to get 1.5V increments.

+|D|- = 1.5V
+|D|- +|D|- = 3.0V
+|D|- +|D|- +|D|- = 4.5V
etc.

What you need to determine is the required voltage for both the "old" and "new" gauges that will make their needles read in the green zones. Once you determine that, we can then figure our the proper size voltage dividing resistor to install to make the gauge work with a 24V charging system.

Jeff

 

[that1028guy]

Stupid IPhone won't let me post a picture... I Just got a new 24v gauge from egauges dot com it's the VDO series. It's a true 24v gauge, I like numbers better than colors. It works great, looks like it belongs there too! Black face, white numbers and orange/ red needle.

 

[1ton cucv k5 turbo]

Well... my old voltmeter is now fixed... thanks to all for the information... i had to go to radioshack, and get the 150ohm resistors.. tied 2 together and tested... it works as it should, got it reinstalled.. only to find yet another problem.. front right blinker no longer works.. after hours of troublershooting... had traced problem to turm signal switch... ( inside Steering column.. yay.... NOT! ) Aaaahhh... it never ends..lol

thanks again...

 

[mudman]

There is a relay also, down by the starter relay under the dash, just right of where the radio would have gone. I changed both of the relays when I did the Dog head switch!!

 

[1ton cucv k5 turbo]

10 4


have already changed both of those relays, going to do the Doghead relay switch this weekend, to get the dash buttoned back up... to move on my hyrdo assist upgrade...

 

[bshupe]

This might be a silly question but....

What is the purpose of one volt gauge on a split voltage system? Shouldnt there be two volt gauges?

 

[that1028guy]

The 12/24v system is tied together, if one stops working, or isnt working as it should, You will see it on the gauge. Take mine for instance, when the glowplugs hit in the morning the gauge drops to around 20v, then when it starts, before I tap the loud pedal its at 24v, after that, and after the belts stop squeeling there a$$ off! Its charging between 28 and 29 volts. Figure each alt shoud charge at 14v. The 1 alt is making 14v, the 2nd alt is making the other 14v but it sees 12-14v as its ground. 14v+14v=28v! Man... even explaining it, it still messes with me.....

 

[Jeremiah_Johnson]

What are the other two relays next to the starter (doghead) relay for?