Atlanta, Ga area request

[CycleJay]

Hi guys,
Do any of you have a portable air wrench and the
proper sockets I can borrow,Just long enough for me to
remove the old shocks, and install the new shocks
I just got for my M1009.

I finally bought a set of four shocks.
And the tools I have are not adequate to do the job.

Any assistance would be appreciated, but I would like to do the work myself.

I would like to get this done by 3am this Monday, 26 March 2012.

Thank you, good day,

 

[Carpenter]

If I had the tools myself I'd let you borrow them but I don't. Best of luck with it. Don't forget to post pics!

 

[chevyCUCV]

I did mine with hand tools

19mm wrench and a ratchet with socket i believe

 

[mdmorganwife]

Most autopart stores have a loaner tool program.

 

[CycleJay]

Hello Carpenter,

Thank you for the reply and the offer. I understand.
And you want pics of what? of the new shocks after I install them?

ChevyCUCV, 19? I do not think I have one of those.
I tried a 7/8" socket on the bottom nuts on both rear shocks,
it fit fine, but it was too small for the top nuts on both rear shocks,
and I do not have any that are larger than that.
Plus even as strong as I am, the bottom nuts would not budge,
even after using WD-40, and putting my body weight into trying to get them loose.

MDmorganwife,
Thank you for the tip, I will check with the parts store that I got the shocks from.

Good night all,

 

[Carpenter]

I've got to replace my rear shocks soon so I was hoping for some pics of the process. I've not replace shocks before.

 

[CycleJay]

Carpenter,

Oh!! Okay, I got ya.. I will see what I can do, when I get it done.

I read the TM on the process, and it is simple enough.
The TM says to remove the old nuts and bolts, then the old shock,
then install the new shock with new nuts and bolts.
Nothing to complicated.

The most difficult part is getting the right tool into the tight spots,
where the top nuts are (between frame and body),
and then having the muscle to break them free and get them off.
But the bottom nuts on each rear shock is easy to get to,
since they are out in the open, but still very tight, especially since they
on my truck have not been replaced as far as I know.
The shocks on my 1009, look like they could be the original shocks.

By the way, where in Georgia, do you live?
If you are not too far away, I would be glad to help you replace yours, when you get them.
By the way, this will be my first attempt at replacing shocks on my 1009 too.
So it will be a learning experience I hope.


Thank you...

 

[ctmustang]

opcorn:

 

[Cucvnut]

CJ get a breaker bar.

 

[Timber]

CJ get a breaker bar.

Yeah, ditto that - you'll have to. It's just eight bolts, but like you said, they've been locked together since their inception. I've tried it before on another K5 with hand tools only and ended up giving up. Changing shocks is pretty simple but when the nuts and bolts are fused together it's a whole different story. PB Blaster is supposedly one of the best penetrating oils around, at least without mixing up your own. Without air tools, you'll need two cans of PB applied at least a night in advance and then still the breaker bar.

 

[Jeremiah_Johnson]

You need a torch to heat up the nuts , and a big breaker bar. Heat the nut as heat expands the metal enough to loosen them. I live about 80 miles from you would offer help but I will be in Dalton GA. for there annual car show swap meet at the fair grounds.. Good luck !!

 

[CycleJay]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the tips, I will look into borrowing a breaker bar and getting some PB blaster,
at the parts store I got the shocks at.
I do NOT want to use heat though, at least on the rears, since the gas tank is right there.

I would like to live thru this experience, LOL..

If I cannot get anywhere, my last resort is to take it to a local shop I know,
that will install parts I provide.

 

[CycleJay]

Hi Guys,

Okay, I have had the nuts on the shocks soaking in PB blaster since yesterday.
I am going to try to tackle the issue today.. (keyword is try..)

But is there any way, to get at that Drivers & passenger side rear shock absorber nuts,
WITHOUT having to cut them off? Because of the tight clearence between body and frame?

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thank you,

CJ

P.s. By the way, I am going to go to the auto parts store I got the shocks at,
and inquire about borrowing some tools.
But they did tell me, if I want a "breaker bar" that I should go to home depot,
and buy a long pipe.

 

[kassim503]

You'll be just fine with breaker barr-ing those puppies right off- they arent big nuts.

Observe picture one- "the wrench trick" or as the TM states, "Trick, Wrench"

Picture two- a perfectly safe to use ratchet that would probably get lost before breaking.
Picture three- Ratchet, meet 1" NPT Pipe from home depot's plumbing section
Picture four- a torque monster that can loosen the world. Wear your gloves and safety goggles.

 

[kassim503]

Lastly I do need to add- there is a real tool called the "breaker bar" that is definitley rented at autozone in 1/2 drive form. But it dosent ratchet, and honestly it might be too long to work under the truck.

 

[zout]

You can heat up those nuts all you want around that fuel tank - it the gasoline vapors that you need to concern yourself with. Hose it all down on the rear and you will not be blowing flames all over the place and it will be a selctive heat pinpoint source you will be dealing with.

Time to start accumulating tools if your going to own and be driving one of these trucks.

 

[CycleJay]

Hi guys,

Thanks for the tips, on the pipe in picture three, how long should the pipe be?
I will try to get a pipe for a breaker bar, or look at one at autozone.

Also, if I chose to heat those nuts, what do I use to heat them?

I would rather not be blowing flames around the fuel tank either.
I like breathing.

Also, I will start buying the tools I need to maintain my M1009,
I do not have a problem with that. Just need to know which ones.

Working on a civy sedan is a bit different in some aspects.

Thank you all...

 

[kassim503]

CJ, its just a pipe- aka "redneck en-jun-eering"

I have ones that range from two feet to 6, I just use whichever is nearest that can fit in the working area. If you are a strong guy im going to reccomend a 2-3 foot and you should be able to muscle anything over. Could get creative with this one, I had a fence pipe that was my breaker bar for the longest time.

Heating the nuts is usually done with a oxy acetlene torch setup- heat helps, but I doubt you are going to need it in this case. The only time I use heat is to cut stuff, or after I boogered stuff up. Honestly heating up shock mounts will get stinky and smokey with the rubber melting out of them.

HTH

 

[CycleJay]

Kassim,

Thanks for the advice, I will duly consider it.
But I have never touched a welding rig, so unless I get some professional instruction,
I would rather not try it. So I will go with a breaker bar, hand ratchets, sockets,
and PB blaster.

Good night,

 

[hndrsonj]

CJ, I am sure the number of people on this site that have recieved "professional" training on a torch is small. Everything you have asked is very basic in nature. You should be able to change out shocks with a 3/8 socket set, a few wrenches and a short pipe. The M1009 is no different than a civvy one.