Soft Top

[WantOne]

My soft top has three bars/bows that run from the back frame to the windshield frame. Looks like they help hold the back frame together and sit in holes in top of the windshield frame. Two fit in holes the other one on the passenger side doesn't fit into a hole. There is also velcro on the soft top where you can attach the top to the bars/bows.

The bars/bows don't all line up with the velcro so you can't use them all.
The bars/bows don't have anything holding them in the windshield frame so they bounce up and down making a lot of racket.

I've looked through the TM's on soft top removal and installation and don't see any mention of these bars/bows? Do they fasten down to the windshield frame in some way that's not evident to me? Do I even need them?

 

[turbovr6jetta]

Mine made quite clatter and always bounced out of the holes. Maybe because the top wasnt tight enough to keep pressure? I would say you need them unless you want a few gallons of water making a large belly above your head. It also might flap around violently.

 

[cattlerepairman]

I hear you and had the same issue. The bars can be bent a little so that the end does slide into the windshield frame hole but, once in, the "spring" like pressure of the bar will hold it in the hole. Having the bars in makes the top look better and keeps sufficient headroom inside.

You are right regarding the Velcro. I get the centre Velcro strip to grab the bar, that's it.

Yes, you need the bars or water will accumulate when parked and the top will be way too loose when driving.

 

[gunboy1656]

I never use the velcro straps, and it keep the rattle from the bows down some. When driving the top likes to flop around and if you use the velcro it pulls it with it, but if you don't use them they pretty much stay in place.

 

[RAYZER]

I just experienced the same issue with my deuce tractor conversion project,when i installed the new top,the outside bows did not even come close to lining up with the velcro.Just drill some new holes in the top of the windsield frame to make it line up.

 

[hndrsonj]

You couls also put in a sheet metal screw to just catch the lip on the front of the bow to hold it in.

 

[319]

Ditto on bending the bows. My A2 soft top must be defective, all of the velcro line up with the bows, and the bows do not bounce out of the holes.

 

[bigmike]

Besides bending the bars a bit, take a small file and file a knotch/tooth on the small diameter part that goes in the hole up near the flange. When you install the bars, the knotch/tooth will catch the sheetmetal of the door frame. This will keep the bars from bounching out.

 

[Truckoholic]

Yep, I've learned the same thing. Do not velcro the top to the bars, and they stay in place MUCH better. Also, I can't help but notice that most people put those bars in backwards. They put the end with the shorter bit with the metal ring around it on the long flat end into the windshield frame, and the end with more of a curve to it in the bar at the back. But I think it was actually designed for, and works a lot better, to put them in with the curved side toward the front, and that way the longer tip on the bar can go down deeper into the hole in the windshield frame where it stays in place better.

 

[m16ty]

I've looked through the TM's on soft top removal and installation and don't see any mention of these bars/bows? Do they fasten down to the windshield frame in some way that's not evident to me? Do I even need them?

I think the bars were a afterthought. I don't think the early trucks had them so if you look in a older TM they won't be listed.

 

[emr]

Besides bending the bars a bit, take a small file and file a knotch/tooth on the small diameter part that goes in the hole up near the flange. When you install the bars, the knotch/tooth will catch the sheetmetal of the door frame. This will keep the bars from bounching out.

This is the best advise ever on the little bows, although i always pretty much had all mine work with a little bending, I will do this one day thanks,.. simple and good.

 

[WantOne]

Thanks for the information and advice. I removed the velcro on the one that lined up. Bought a piece of round stock and made another bow a little longer to replace the one that wouldn't reach the hole. Well see how that works when I drive it to a parade tomorrow.

 

[WantOne]

With the Velcro removed from the bows and the "new" longer bow in place I didn't experience any of the banging and noise I had before. Thanks again for the input and advice.

 

[Seth_O]

I read here on the site (can't remember the post) that the same top was used for both the 2.5 and the 5 ton, and the velcro lines up on some bars on the 2.5 ton, and on the others in the 5 ton. Consistent with my deuce, never been inside a 5 ton to check.

I didn't get any rattle on my bars until my front channel let go on my soft-top, since doing the siding fix I get a little rattle, but nothing too bad.

 

[m16ty]

The 5-tons and the deuce use the same cab so I'd think the bows would be the same.

 

[hndrsonj]

I think the velcro lining up problem is with the tops. All the GMA tops i've ever used were OK.

 

[hndrsonj]

I can't help but notice that most people put those bars in backwards. They put the end with the shorter bit with the metal ring around it on the long flat end into the windshield frame, and the end with more of a curve to it in the bar at the back. But I think it was actually designed for, and works a lot better, to put them in with the curved side toward the front, and that way the longer tip on the bar can go down deeper into the hole in the windshield frame where it stays in place better.

This is actually wrong according to the manual. The short side with the "ring" goes forward.

 

[Farmun]

The bars may hold the cab top up when there's water on it, but they don't hold up when a 125 lb kid crawls through the the cargo cover and onto the cab!!! Don't ask........

 

[MyothersanM1]

I recently got a new vinyl 383 green cab top. The Velcro did not line up with the outer holes on the windshield or rear/top support tube. My original support tubes had a few too many holes drilled in them, one was slightly bent and I just wasn't happy with them. So I replaced them with a very close match:

7767T15 Low-Carbon Steel Tubing 1" OD, .902" ID, .049" Wall Thickness, 6' Length McMaster-Carr

I cut the tubes to the proper length and painted them. I installed them, marked for holes by lining them up with the Velcro seams on the cab top, removed the tubes and drilled out the new holes. I also marked the windshield for proper hole location in relation to the Velcro.

I reinstalled the tubes and installed the wire bows marking the depth on the windshield hole marks. I drilled new holes in the windshield. Put every thing together and it all lines up. Only the center clatters when driving, but I plan to remedy it by putting a little bend in it. And, yes, my wire bows are installed short pin front/long pin back.

 

[goldneagle]

I actually added 2 more bows in-between the others to give even more support to the top. Works great and the top fits tighter.