Have you converted to 12 volt?

[stationjj]

I bought my M1009 CUCV with 24 volt still intact. When I purchased this CUCV I didn't want to do any major changes. Now after owning the CUCV for a few months now, I am considering a change to 12 volt.

I read the PDF from REC (Roscommon Equipment Company) on converting to 12 volt.
A conversion seems straight forward enough.

I wanted to ask what everyone else has done? Did you stick with 24 volt or convert to 12 volt, and why?

I have added a radio, and plan to add CB. Future items ham radio, Solargizer, and inverter.

Thanks for everyone's input and advice.

stationjj

 

[cucv1833]

I say keep it 24V its not that difficult.

Read thease 2-threads they will answer most of your questions
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/82535-convert-cucv-12v-pro-vs-cons.html?highlight=12v+conversion
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/73068-convert-12v.html?highlight=12v+conversion

 

[patracy]

I got other MV's, mine stays 24V.

If ALL I had was a CUCV, I'd probably convert.

 

[K9Vic]

There is no reason to convert to 12v to add 12v accessories. The only CUCV that I would agree to convert to 12v is a M1010 if one does not plan to use the heater or A/C units that run on 24v. The M1010 has a known issue with the DUVAC failing. Any other CUCV there is no benefit IMHO to convert to 12v.

My M1009 has just about everything you listed and allot more all running on the 12v side.

 

[walkerhunter]

I have 24 volt system with a converter for all my 12 volt devices.

 

[K9Vic]

I have 24 volt system with a converter for all my 12 volt devices.

You do not have a CUCV looking at your avatar, the CUCV in native 12v and the entire truck is 12v with only the Starter being 24v. Expect for the M1010, the heater and A/C unit are also 24v, but the truck is still 12v.

 

[cpf240]

I plan on leaving mine in its stock 12/24 configuration, with the exception of the 12v bypass for the glow plugs.

 

[CycleJay]

Hi,

For what it is worth, I am going to keep my M1009 stock with the 24v.
It works fine, I can run 12v accessories, so no need to convert.

After all, "if it is not broke, do not fix it..."

Besides, If I ever run across an MV stuck on the side of the road,
needing a jump start, then I am good to go, to help them.

But it is your truck, so it is up to you.

Just my $0.02 cents.

 

[2HIJOS2126]

So just to be clear..... the 12v side is strictly off of the front battery??? I also plan on running alot of 12v accessories....

 

[K9Vic]

So just to be clear..... the 12v side is strictly off of the front battery??? I also plan on running alot of 12v accessories....

Front and negative post on the rear battery.
Or the 12v buss on the firewall, but do not over load this as it is for the entire trucks 12v system.
.

 

[ralbelt]

My M1008 is stock and I plan on leaving it that way.

 

[combatmech]

Why dig into a working system?

 

[kenz5380]

I took my 1008 to 12 volt after going over many dfferent configurations. I did this more to save money as my truck didn't come with either alternator, or most of the under hood wiring harness. I would probably rather have the 24 volt system, for cold starting, but that is about it. The 12 volt starter is not as fast as the 24 that is the only real difference. Most guys take the glow plugs off the 24 volt side so the only thing left on the 24 volt circuit is the starter. While the 12 volt starter is slower than the 24 I like that I can go to the parts store and pick up a 12 volt unit whenever I need it. For whatever reason the 24 and 12 volt starters that are available these days are real junk and need to be replaced far more often than any starter in any vehicle I've ever had or even heard of. At the end of the day I think that the 24 volt starting curcuit is a lot of parts, and complexity that can be replaced by a 12 volt system with the only loss being a little starter speed.

I don't know exactly how I feel about it. If I was keeping my truck to military spec I would feel pretty strong about sticking with 24 volt, but as far as functionality goes I don't think there is a lot of difference. I like the accessibility of parts and simplicity of my home made 12 volt system, although, like it says in the FAQ, you won't be able to get a lot of help from other SS members with your electrical system if you convert. You will be pretty much on your own.

My Electrical system is so far from stock now that I am just about completely on my own in every respect, but I've gotten used to it. Its all what your comfortable with, but if I was starting over with a functioning electrical system I would leave it all alone until something broke, then I would start thinking about whether it was worth both of those expensive alternators and a special order starter to keep my 24 volt system.

 

[GPrez]

I converted my M1009 to 12v with no regrets. With that said I do plan to leave my M1028 24v until I run into problems with the starter, but will not purchase one of the junk 24v starters on Ebay again to replace it. As long as I can find a reputable place to rebuild my starter I will stay 24v on the M1028 as it does start much easier with the 24v starter. As others have already stated there are plenty of places to tap into 12v for accessories.

Don't buy into what you hear about "no one can help you with electrical problems" if you convert to 12v. These trucks are basically a 12v civilian unit and just about any mechanic can help you if you can't figure it out. Use the Rosscommon method and you won't have any problems. With a test light and volt meter you can track down any problems you come across.

 

[Warthog]

...... and just about any mechanic can help you if you can't figure it out.

Most old school mechanics can. The newer ones don't have a clue unless they can hook up a computer to it................

Old school is a dying breed

 

[sierrajcharlie]

Most old school mechanics can. The newer ones don't have a clue unless they can hook up a computer to it................

Old school is a dying breed

Sad to say. My oldest boy is going for diesel mechanics, first year done now. I took my 09 down for them to look over, just for them to have something to do. The instructor told him I modified the charging circuits somehow and the drivers side alt wasn't charging. I got excited, I haven't changed anything and the unit is 90 miles from home. I called a buddy who's been working on starters etc for 40 years. I explained what was going on, he told me what the readings should be at X points. He told me how to check with a screwdriver to see if the alt is working also and not to tell the instructors that, they'll have a fit. The boy brought it home then and I checked the thing over and it was fine. I showed the boy how the charging system was set up and that it in fact it was charging normally. I lost allot of confidence in the teachings that are going on today.

 

[photron]

I converted mine to 12 volt a few years ago. I think the reason I did is due to the fact that I needed a new starter and the cost was lower and the 12 volt starters were easy to come by . I am going to revert back to the 24 volt starter sooner or later.

 

[85CUCVtom]

I purchased my M1009 with a 12V conversion gone wrong. I corrected it by working through the Rosscommon PDF's. I wish I would have got one that was stock 24V. If you have problems with the 24V system you have the TM's to help and everybody here on SS to help you. They are designed to be 24V and I would leave it that way. Just my

 

[Keith_J]

24 volt systems use half the current to perform the same work. While the stock starter wiring is 2 AWG and should work with a 12 volt conversion, adding 24 volt accessories like an inverter will be easier since you can run smaller wire.

I have a 2300 Watt inverter which runs off 24 volt and is perfectly happy with 4 AWG wire where if it were 12 volt, it would need 2 AWG wire.

I'm not concerned with battery cost because they are lightly loaded. Alternators are easily rebuilt. Starters are available.

 

[85CUCVtom]

24V starters are even easily rebuilt. At least according to the guy at the local auto electric shop.