m1009 "clanking" noise when put in reverse...

[wrex]

Ok, I searched the forums with no results, so if I missed it already posted then, well, sorry. lol.

I noticed that the truck has developed a "clank" when I put it in reverse, about a month ago. It wasn't excessively loud, but noticeable and something I intended to look into.

I've been busy and haven't driven it since and forgot about it, until today when I was re-arranging cars in the driveway. It was louder, this time.

I just wanted to get some thoughts of what you guys think it could be, before I dig into it this week to investigate. I'm suspecting the bearings (whatever they're called) on the joint on the drive-shaft could need greasing or replacing. It's hard to pinpoint the noise, but it sounds like it's coming from right under the driver side seat-area, which is why I am tending to suspect that. Of course, I could be completely dumb for thinking that, heh.

I did peek at it and it "appears" ok, but not sure besides checking to see if there's play what I could do without taking it apart what I can check.

What else do you think I should look at, while I'm under there? lol.

Thanks guys!

 

[Cucvnut]

I would look at your u joints first in the drive shaft and if that's not it maybe motor-transmission mounts.

 

[Goose2448]

Is your truck parked on the flat or on an incline when engaging reverse? I had a turbo 350 that did that, and it checked out okay. My 4LE60 did the same thing, that just got replaced awaiting pickup tomorrow. I am by no means an expert here, but thats what I have experienced with a similar trans. It could also be time to change the trans filter.

 

[porkysplace]

Check the torque converter bolts and for a cracked flex plate also.

 

[wrex]

Thanks for the responses and things to check, guys.
Yeah, I should have mentioned that it is on flat surfaces, when I noticed it. Now it does it every time. I just moved it from the road back to the driveway and it did it again. I'll go outside and look it all over tonight, once it cools down from this Arizona heat. lol.

Trans filter should be good. Just had that serviced a few months ago but if I don't pin-point it elsewhere, I'll check that as well.

 

[KsM715]

Crawl under it and grab the driveshaft try to spin it and see if there is excesive (sp?) play in the u-joints.

 

[patracy]

I'm just going to throw it out there, but my money is on the rear end with the gov-locker. I've broken two of those things.

 

[WARWAG]

U Joint.

 

[mudman]

Modulator

 

[papabear]

It ain't the filter or the modulator. IMO

U-joint or rearward drivetrain...or maybe the nerfal trunion.

 

[KsM715]

OK lets get a little more info. Does it "clank" while rolling in reverse or just at the moment you shift it into reverse. If you hold the brake and shift into reverse and it clanks when you do that but not when its rolling its most likely the u-joint. (dont bother greasing them just replace them with new ones). If it clanks while rolling in reverse I would look into something in the rear end.

Unless your u-joint is so bad and your rolling so slowly that you can hear it clank on each rotation. Heres a test, start the truck and hold the brake, shift into reverse and see if it clanks but dont move or let off the brake keep holding and shift into drive and see if it clanks going that way also with out moving. If it does then thats a sure sign its the u-joint. Still climbing under the truck and shaking the driveshaft should tellyou if the u-joint is out.

 

[papabear]

When I ran an automotive shop I just loved hearing the sounds customers said their cars made....especially women.

One day a huge black lady came in and said she wanted us to check out her car.
I said, well what's it doing?

She said..."Well, when I start the motor and drives down the road, it sounds like something be knockin like a mofo! My friend told me I needs a new motor."

Actually, the rubber on the balancer was broken (3.8 GM V6).

Her "new motor" cost her about 125 bucks...including installation.

Sometimes I hate being an honest person!

 

[ryan77]

I had a civi k5 do the same thing it was the u joints!!!

 

[wrex]

OK lets get a little more info. Does it "clank" while rolling in reverse or just at the moment you shift it into reverse. If you hold the brake and shift into reverse and it clanks when you do that but not when its rolling its most likely the u-joint. (dont bother greasing them just replace them with new ones). If it clanks while rolling in reverse I would look into something in the rear end.

Unless your u-joint is so bad and your rolling so slowly that you can hear it clank on each rotation. Heres a test, start the truck and hold the brake, shift into reverse and see if it clanks but dont move or let off the brake keep holding and shift into drive and see if it clanks going that way also with out moving. If it does then thats a sure sign its the u-joint. Still climbing under the truck and shaking the driveshaft should tellyou if the u-joint is out.

When holding break, not rolling, moment when I shift into rev.

I'll try the hold-the-break thing and shift into drive too.

I'll replace them, thanks!

 

[wrex]

I had a civi k5 do the same thing it was the u joints!!!

I believe the consensus that is the likely culprit. Easy and cheap enough to replace, so I'll just replace them and see where that gets us.

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

I agree with the general consensus. Throw a set of U-joints in it, but do yourself a favor and get the slightly more expensive ones with the zerks so you can grease them periodically. Don't believe the parts counter zit-farmer at NAPA when he tells you they're pre-greased. Only the non-serviceable type (without the zerk fittings) come pre-greased. Some of the servicable (with zerks) come with a little bit of the cheap grease in them, but you should always load them with some good sticky high-temp lithium grease. As soon as you install them and get them tight, then install the zerk fittings and hit them with the grease gun. As long as you keep them loaded with a good quality grease and remember to hit them with the grease gun along with all the other zerks under the truck every time you do an oil change, you'll never have to hear that drive shaft clang again, unless of course you hit it with a rock, but that's another thread! lol

 

[wrex]

I agree with the general consensus. Throw a set of U-joints in it, but do yourself a favor and get the slightly more expensive ones with the zerks so you can grease them periodically. ....

remember to hit them with the grease gun along with all the other zerks under the truck every time you do an oil change, you'll never have to hear that drive shaft clang again, unless of course you hit it with a rock, but that's another thread! lol

Lol. Noted!

 

[wrex]

When I ran an automotive shop I just loved hearing the sounds customers said their cars made....especially women.

One day a huge black lady came in and said she wanted us to check out her car.
I said, well what's it doing?

She said..."Well, when I start the motor and drives down the road, it sounds like something be knockin like a mofo! My friend told me I needs a new motor."

Actually, the rubber on the balancer was broken (3.8 GM V6).

Her "new motor" cost her about 125 bucks...including installation.

Sometimes I hate being an honest person!

Exactly why I asked here, first

 

[68impalass]

another possibility is it could be the vacuum line going to the modulator is touching the body somewhere.