My passenger side altenator is producing 30 volts, so i purchased the rebuild kit from cucv electric. I just purchased the truck and the altenator looks brand new. I know its supposed to be an isolated ground altenator i was wandering how to tell if it is an isolated ground altenator. I dont wont to rebuild it, then in a week it screws up again.
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Altenator question
- Thread starter Sp0okfish
- Start date
The alternator really isn't producing 30volts.
Each alternator produces around 14.7v in an ideal situation. The 14.7v (or less) fron the driverside alternator is fed to the ground terminal of the passenger alternator. The voltages combine to produce ~29.4v total.
You can tell if the alternator is an isolated ground by the fact that you don't see any fireworks...
Actually, look at the terminals on the back of the unit. You will see the two lugs on the back.
Start your truck and check the voltage of each battery. Then report back your findings. You should see around 14.5v on each one.
Oh and welcome to the site.
Each alternator produces around 14.7v in an ideal situation. The 14.7v (or less) fron the driverside alternator is fed to the ground terminal of the passenger alternator. The voltages combine to produce ~29.4v total.
You can tell if the alternator is an isolated ground by the fact that you don't see any fireworks...
Actually, look at the terminals on the back of the unit. You will see the two lugs on the back.
Start your truck and check the voltage of each battery. Then report back your findings. You should see around 14.5v on each one.
Oh and welcome to the site.
Attachments
The front battery is 14.56, and the back battery is 11.16. When I bought the truck it started fine now it drags when its starts. There also is a problem with the glow plug system. It works fine in the morning when you first start it but once it is warmed up the "wait" light would some times come on and stay on for the cycle or it wont come on at all and the water in fuel light should come on for like a second but it sometimes doesnt come on at all either. And the truck would crank but not start. I just took the wire off the top of the temperature sensor and the glow plugs come on all the time now and the truck starts fine. I ordered a new temperautre sensor as well.
cpf240
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You may have a bad battery. I'd suggest giving them a full charge, and then having them load tested at your local auto parts house. Unless you have your own load tester, that is! 
Sounds like the fusible link between the GEN2 positive terminal and the 24v Positive Terminal Block.
Have you downloaded the Tech Manuals and looked at the wiring diagrams in the appendix?
Just checking... Where did you get the 30v reading? From the back of the Gen2?
Have you downloaded the Tech Manuals and looked at the wiring diagrams in the appendix?
Just checking... Where did you get the 30v reading? From the back of the Gen2?
islandguydon
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Has there ever been a CUCV with just 1-24v altenator...? Instead of 2-12v..?
The M1010 ambulance. They used the Duvac inverter to change to 12v. Major issues with that setup.
tgtaylor64
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As the tach post is only on the drivers side alternator and not on the passengers side; what are the delco numbers for each one?
From the factory, each of the alternators are the same. GM 1105500
Both have the tack post. Just the drivers side uses it for the STE/ICE diagnostic connection.
Part numbers are listed in the Parts Tech Manuals
Both have the tack post. Just the drivers side uses it for the STE/ICE diagnostic connection.
Part numbers are listed in the Parts Tech Manuals
Spook,
disconnect both batteries and then check the wire from the GEN2 positive terminal back to the 24v 24v buss.
You are looking for the big blue fusible link. You should go ahead and remove all the wires and clean all the terminals.
I have to ask what your mechanical/electrical skills are. Just helps us to know how to procede.
disconnect both batteries and then check the wire from the GEN2 positive terminal back to the 24v 24v buss.
You are looking for the big blue fusible link. You should go ahead and remove all the wires and clean all the terminals.
I have to ask what your mechanical/electrical skills are. Just helps us to know how to procede.
Attachments
Good news I went and checked all the connections and the blue fuseable link was loose and the wires above the gp solenoid. I cleaned all terminals on buss board. Now starts up like normal front battery has 14.7v and back has 13.7. I put the conector back on the temperaure sensor, and when i first started the truck it came on for the cycle and the water in fuel came on like usual for a second. After the truck is warmed up though neither lights come on not even for a second, is that usual not sure but i think they should still come on for at least a second or so.
Thanks for all the help
Thanks for all the help