Deuce / D600 dodge crew cab camper build

[bugwhacker]

So this is my first post. I have been reading here for a couple of years and finally took the plunge. Now some people will not like me cutting up a deuce to make a camper but take comfort in that I plan on finding homes for the parts I don't need and not just chucking them off to the scrapyard.

I am placing a 1975 Dodge d600 front end on it with a 1985 Dodge d350 crewcab body. I have titles for everything but plan on titleing it with the 1975 D600 cab and specs - It is from a dump truck so has 24,000k GVW.

My plan is to keep the multifuel because I like the idea of lots of selection for fuel and mine was newly rebuilt by the army in 86. I am singling it out and going with a larger tire - still deciding on the tire rim combo, my main concern is tire availability all over the planet.

Here are a couple of pics showing what I am starting with -

 

[olivedrabflorida]

Cool, are you going to make it 12 or 24 volt?

 

[bugwhacker]

Most likely it will end up being a hybrid system of some sort. 24 volt systems are a lot better when considering solar power storage then 12 volt. Plus lots of 24 volt appliances exist because of the solar and trucking industry. A 24 volt system is about as much as you could charge at a decent rate with the square footage I will have with my roof system.

I have considered the 2 alternator 12 / 24 volt 3 battery systems and it will add more belts and another alternator. I am going with the deuce as a platform because it is simple and built like a tractor so I don't really want to add more complexity. So if I want 12 volts I will either add a dc-dc converter or tap the battery bank into 2 - 12 volt banks and watch the charge state closely when not charging often. I plan on only needing 12 volts for charging cell phones etc for the ones that don't have wide input chargers.

24 volt fridge freezer
Chest Style Solar Refrigerators | sundanzer.com

24 volt microwave
24 VDC and 120 VAC Portable Microwave Oven

 

[Ruppster]

Now some people will not like me cutting up a deuce to make a camper

Seeing as how deuces are a dime a dozen right now that doesn't bother me. It's the D600 that you're about to hack up that pisses me off! Sorry, just had to get that out of my system (I have a web site that's all about the 400-1000 series of Dodge trucks). Just wish you were closer to me as I would be interested in the rest of the Dodge chassis. Oh well. What engine and trans are in the dump truck?

As far as your idea to put the Dodge cab on a deuce and a half chassis I've been thinking about doing something similar myself but using a Dodge engine like a 413 V8 with a newer transmission. Not too long ago I acquired a WWII IH 2.5 ton 6x6 that I was going to restore but the cab is too far gone and I haven't been able to find another open cab for a WWII IH within 500 miles. So I'm starting to think about putting an early 70's C series Dodge cab on the WWII IH's chassis instead (unless someone wants to trade me an M35 for it).

Anyhow, while I hate to see a D600 get trashed it's your toy so have fun. Sounds like you have an interesting idea for one heck of a truck. Just be sure to post a bunch of pics.

 

[wreckerman893]

I bought a 1960 International Travelette (crew cab) and was going to do the same thing but the cab had too many rust issues.

If I could find another cheap crew cab I'd do the same but make a bobber out of it with a flatbed and dual stacks on it.

The bottom line is that it's your dog and you can whip it if you want to.

 

[tm america]

Sounds like a good build ..Older crew cab dodges are hard to find.. but if done right it could be a worthy use ....I do have a little advise on your electrical system..Do not pull 12 volts from just one of the batteries even just for a small load...It will make the batteries charge unevenly and will kill the alt and batteries fairly quickly...Do a dual alt setup of converter... Deuce alts are 40 yrs old and on the weak side to begin with ... Make sure to post lots of pics ..If there is any custom metal work.I.e .cab mounts-other brackets i can help you out with shoot me a pm ...

 

[MWMULES]

When you do it let me know. I need the duce cab if it is good shape as mine is rusted in too many spots. I am just across the state line from you.

 

[porkysplace]

So this is my first post. I have been reading here for a couple of years and finally took the plunge. Now some people will not like me cutting up a deuce to make a camper but take comfort in that I plan on finding homes for the parts I don't need and not just chucking them off to the scrapyard.

I am placing a 1975 Dodge d600 front end on it with a 1985 Dodge d350 crewcab body. I have titles for everything but plan on titleing it with the 1975 D600 cab and specs - It is from a dump truck so has 24,000k GVW.

My plan is to keep the multifuel because I like the idea of lots of selection for fuel and mine was newly rebuilt by the army in 86. I am singling it out and going with a larger tire - still deciding on the tire rim combo, my main concern is tire availability all over the planet.

Here are a couple of pics showing what I am starting with -

It should be titled with the frame numbers or a state assembled title . The frame number is the legal V.I.N. number . You will run into insurance issues should you ever have to file a claim and it will give them a easy way out of paying any claims

 

[Ferroequinologist]

Ruppster, that must be your site I've been going to all the time for d600 info for my 1975 fuel truck! I agree, those trucks have become quite rare. Luckily mine is in super good shape body wise, needs a windshield though.

interesting build.

 

[bugwhacker]

As for titling and insurance in MO the law says that if you place the cab of a truck onto the frame of another the truck will be titled as what it looks like. It is a simple frame swap issue for them. When I am finished I will take all the titles and build photos to the HWY patrol and they will issue it a new title and VIN number but it will be a 1975 Dodge d600 built in 2012 or whenever I get done with it. They will provide a plate and screw it into the vehicle some place or another. What I am trying to avoid is having it called a specially constructed vehicle and not a d600. For insurance reasons it is much better to be a d600.

This information came from the Mo titling manual.
http://dor.mo.gov/forms/Missouri_Titling_Manual.pdf

"Please note that in Missouri motor vehicles are titled by appearance. Example: If a 1978 Chevrolet body is attached to a 1979 Ford frame, the vehicle will be titled as a 1978 Chevrolet.
If a vehicle identification replacement number or DR Number is issued to the vehicle, the Motor Vehicle Bureau will not issue a new certificate of title on the vehicle until an authorized officer has certified the replacement VIN plate has been affixed to the vehicle and the officer has notified the Department."

 

[bugwhacker]

Ruppster, that must be your site I've been going to all the time for d600 info for my 1975 fuel truck! I agree, those trucks have become quite rare. Luckily mine is in super good shape body wise, needs a windshield though.

interesting build.

Just find yourself a d100 - d350 and all the glass is interchangeable. So 1972 - 1993 glass will fit I think. Maybe off a couple of years but you get the idea.

 

[bugwhacker]

A little more Photoshopping -

 

[bugwhacker]

Floor plan of that camper. Doesn't seem too bad but really pricey.



Website for the camper - Northstar Campers :: - Online Catalog -

 

[Odyssey M]

Good luck bugwhacker. Don't forget the flame paintjob!

 

[lawdog1623]

please god no! spare the deuce ....the petition is forthcoming

 

[bugwhacker]

Well I have my LDS-486 in a can safely at the house now. It looks great and I finally bought myself a crane to start the heavy lifting (pics later tonight if I get home before dark). The crane I found is rated at 10,000 lbs and has a 10 foot out reach and 20 foot up all terrain with a hydraulic hoist. I paid $1,100 for it delivered to the house - looks like **** but a coat of paint will fix that.

I have decided on my transmission for the build. I plan to use a RTOO 9513 Road Ranger - 13 speed with nice close ratio and no syncros to burn up speed shifting. As an added bonus you get to split the top 4 gears with a flick of the switch on the shifter and for the times when you want really deep reduction you still have the low reduction in the transfer case.

LR = 12.66, LH = 3.43, L = 12.10, 1 = 7.28, 2 = 5.10, 3 = 3.69, 4 = 2.70, L5 = 1.97, H5 = 1.66, L6 = 1.38 , H6 = 1.16, L7 = 1.00, H7 = 0.84, L8 = 0.73, H8 = 0.62

It has an SAE#2 bell housing on it so it will bolt right to the back of the LDS, it would be nice if the splines and the pilot matches up but that could be too much to ask for. I found one local for $250 that came out of a low milage truck. The one I found is actually a RTO 9513 which is a single overdrive with a final of 0.87 but by using some old school truck tech I am going to flip the 4-5 cluster on it speeding up the main shafts and creating a double overdrive. This creates more heat in the transmission and will require a cooler if your going to run above 60 for extended time in over over drive. We used to set up cow hauler trucks this way to let them run way over the posted limit. With the low gears (6.72) in the deuce it will still climb past 70 before redline which is way faster then I plan on running. I am setting my gearing up so that in single over direct (12th or L8 = 0.73) with tall 22.5's I will be cruising at 55 and just a touch above 2000 RPM - the butter zone as far as fuel consumption and smoke production is concerned while being way up on the torque for the LDS.

Now using this transmission cause a few issues.... its really large and long. Transfer case will need to be moved back 15 inches at least. The 3053A case is 17 inches and the RTOO 9513 is 32.10 inches. Which makes really bad angles on the drive shaft - so move the tandems back. For me this is a good thing as it allows me more fuel tank / holding tank area between the front and rear tires. It does make my turning radies bigger but I have not figured out how much yet, bigger than an M35 and smaller than a M36. There will also be a problem with the PTO, by using the LDS adapter my starter will be right where the shaft for my winch is and it wouldnt matter anyway because the case of the RTOO 9513 is too wide and the PTO outlets on it are only on the top and right side. So I plan to use the top PTO adapter and run a hydraulic pump then convert my front winch to hydraulic and install a rear winch that is hydraulic also.

Many things yet to figure out but I plan to build my LDS / RTOO 9513 power unit in my garage then swap it out as one unit so I can keep my truck mobile while I am working out all the issues.

I would appreciate any pieces of wisdom or just ideas on this as I go along, it is a lot to think about all at one time while trying to see the bigger picture.

 

[bugwhacker]

M35 = 154 inches to center of tandems - 37.5 foot turning radius
M36 = 190 inches to center of tandems - 42.5 foot turning radius


36 inches difference in wheelbase = 60 inches in turning radius increase

1 inch of wheelbase increase = 1.66 inches of turning radius increase

So if I add 18 inches to my wheelbase I will increase my turning radius 2.5 foot
My turning radius should then be right at 40 foot - tighter then most 4 door trucks on the market today.



2012 Chevrolet Colorado Crew Cab wheelbase = 126 inches 44.3 foot turning radius
2013 Ford F150 Super Crew Cab wheelbase = 144.5 inches 47 foot turning radius
2013 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab wheelbase = 127.4 inches 42.3 foot turning radius
2010 Dodge Ram 2500 Crew Cab wheelbase = 169.4 inches 53.2 foot turning radius

 

[BAZYRKYR]

LOL...that's pretty freakin' awesome. I wish I had the skill to do stuff like that.

 

[harleyhouse]

This is going to be cool! Post lots of pictures.

There are a couple Frankinstein builds on ExPo: Adventure and Overland Travel Enthusiasts

Check there for ideas.

 

[MidnightDuramax]

I am going to be looking forward to checking the build progress and photos of this daily.