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Bringing an M35A2 out of the trees and back on the road

targhee trucks

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Thanks to all for the great comments! It wouldn't have happened without you and the others on SS who answered, encouraged and advised.

You were all in that cab with me today!

I suppose I could have backed it into the barn rather than all those turns, but then it would have ended sooner! I was having so much fun yanking on that wheel, shifting and listening to the sound of the engine that I didn't want it to end. :D

(Yeah, no brakes, I was a bit concerned about the barn a time or two myself.)

I enjoyed driving that truck out of those trees today as much as anything I've ever done!

Here's a picture of the engine tag I mentioned in an earlier post:

M35a2 engine tag.jpg
 

m816

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Ya sure gave your arms a good work out. and it sure sounds great. That has ot be the best camo job in history. I bet even Revenourers would walk past it. Great job
 

targhee trucks

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3 Deuces

I can't say thanks enough to everyone on SS who answered questions, offered advice and encouragement. Jim even sent me a hard copy TM for the M135 series.[thumbzup]

Some of you may have already seen the threads on the other trucks I've been trying to bring back to life this summer. If not, they're in the Early Deuce forum. "Trying to get two M220's . . ." and "Boyce Reman . . .".

Here's a pic of three of the five trucks. The 4th one is still in the upper pasture with a frozen motor (ATF & PB Blaster in the cylinders). #5 is just a partial with some usable parts.

Three deuces.jpg
 
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targhee trucks

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TM(s) for brakes?

I only have a few more weeks to work on the trucks before I have to go back to our "other life".

There's not a lot of $$ in the farm budget for the trucks at this point.

I've suggested to our son-in-law that he hang on to the trucks, rather than sell them off quickly. Heck, they've been here for 30+ years, what's another 2 or 3? Then we can work on them over time and get them to the point that they're usable on the farm.

I want to focus on learning about the brake systems during the time I have left this summer. I've looked over the list of TM's for the M35A2 (there's a lot of them!). Can someone give me the TM numbers that will be most helpful to me?

Thanks,

Jack
 

Recovry4x4

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Yes, TM 9-2320-361-20. Should have most info on them. As a secondary for individual parts try TM 9-2320-361-34
 

cattlerepairman

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I notice that you go into things informed and with measured enthusiasm and do not appear to get carried away. Very admirable.
Hopefully, you get #4 running as well. As far as farm budget goes, getting one of these beasts functional is oftentimes less expensive than fixing up your average pickup truck.
You may have to decide to only fix up two and use the others for parts...
The white one appears to be in decent shape.
 

targhee trucks

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I notice that you go into things informed and with measured enthusiasm and do not appear to get carried away. Very admirable.
Hopefully, you get #4 running as well. As far as farm budget goes, getting one of these beasts functional is oftentimes less expensive than fixing up your average pickup truck.
You may have to decide to only fix up two and use the others for parts...
The white one appears to be in decent shape.
Thanks for the kind words. The truth is, I have a lot of experience getting into projects I don't know much about.;) A little homework goes a long way to help things go better. And I've always appreciated the help I get from folks who know what they're talking about, like the folks here on SS.

I think you're right about the white truck. From what I've seen so far it's got the best chance of doing some work on the farm this year. In fact, I talked with our son-in-law about it this morning. He feels the same way and has asked if I can get it ready for harvest time.

So I'll be changing fluids, checking for leaks, maybe changing a tire or two and working on the brakes over the next few weeks.

The blue Boyce Reman truck (M135 chassis w/ small block Chevy) is the other one with a running engine. It could see service this year if we can get the brakes working on it.

The two M220's will probably be projects for next year, as long as they don't get scraped or sold first. I don't think that's going to happen, but, we'll see . . .

Jack
 

targhee trucks

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Now that the truck is out of the trees I can get underneath it. Finally started crawling around under it today, here are a couple things I found.

M35A2 another fuel pump.jpg

The picture above shows a second fuel pump. It's mounted to the left front frame rail between the primary and secondary filters. It and the in-tank pump both run when the ignition is turned on. I'm guessing it was added when the other electrical work was done.

M35A2 duct tape cylinder gasket.jpg

I got a kick out of this. The picture above shows some duct tape that was used as gasket material on the air pack.

I've been reading about the brake system in the TM and in the threads here. I spent a couple hours this afternoon lying on my back underneath the truck getting to know what it all looks like in person. No, I wasn't napping, I'm just a slow learner :wink: Planning to take out the master cylinder and air pack to see if they can be rebuilt. The parking brake is rusted solid, planning to take it apart and get it working again too.
 
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waayfast

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Jack,
On my M35 I found the park brake cable was not rusted stuck but rather it was stuck because the grease was SO old it was hard as a rock-- would NOT move.

I filled the flex hose on my grease gun full of laquer thinner --injected that into the fitting to soften the old, solid grease enough to get it to start moving so it would take fresh grease.

Still using the original E-brake cable- did not have to buy a new one.

Jim
 

targhee trucks

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Idaho
Jack,
On my M35 I found the park brake cable was not rusted stuck but rather it was stuck because the grease was SO old it was hard as a rock-- would NOT move.

I filled the flex hose on my grease gun full of laquer thinner --injected that into the fitting to soften the old, solid grease enough to get it to start moving so it would take fresh grease.

Still using the original E-brake cable- did not have to buy a new one.

Jim
Jim,

Thanks for the tip on the lacquer thinner, I'll give it a try. Saving parts ($$) is always a good thing.

All the pivot points on the e-brake shoes are rusted too. I tried tapping on them with a hammer to see if I could break them loose, no luck. The lever won't budge. It looks like I'll have to take them apart to get them cleaned up and working again.

All those years of 4'-6' of snow melting each spring has not been kind to stuff underneath the truck. Lots of rusted nuts, bolts, etc. under there.

Jack
 
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ridingshotgun

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All those years of 4'-6' of snow melting each spring has not been kind to stuff underneath the truck. Lots of rusted nuts, bolts, etc. under there.
[/QUOTE]

on the bright side...it's a good thing you live in Idaho. There's no way the whole truck would be in that good of shape here in the midwest. The duct tape wouldn't last a year in this humidity. Stuff rots so fast here compared to you guys. My sister lives in Montana and they have 50 year old equipment that is stored outside and works just fine! That could never happen here.
 

targhee trucks

New member
162
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Location
Idaho
All those years of 4'-6' of snow melting each spring has not been kind to stuff underneath the truck. Lots of rusted nuts, bolts, etc. under there.
on the bright side...it's a good thing you live in Idaho. There's no way the whole truck would be in that good of shape here in the midwest. The duct tape wouldn't last a year in this humidity. Stuff rots so fast here compared to you guys. My sister lives in Montana and they have 50 year old equipment that is stored outside and works just fine! That could never happen here.[/QUOTE]

You are so right about that. I grew up back east so I know how destructive that high humidity is. We're pretty lucky out here.
 

targhee trucks

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Idaho
Update: brakes

The master cylinder was frozen, could not depress the pedal. So I crawled underneath the other day and was ready to begin taking it off, but I decided to give it a few gentle taps on the push rod first to see if I could break if free. Got a little movement after a few taps, broke free completely after a few more!

So, filled the master cylinder with fluid, gave it some pumps and felt pressure! But it just kept drinking fluid. Crawled underneath and saw brake fluid dripping from the rear axles. The solid line between the m/c and the rear axle had a hole in it. Had my wife give it some pumps while I watched. Fluid squirted out with quite a bit of pressure.

Got the broken line out this morning. Going in to town after lunch to get a replacement.

Looking forward to putting it in and see what happens.

As you know, "heat + hose + vice grips" is the formula for rusted brake line fittings. Just be careful around those rubber lines.

M35a2 brake line heat hose vice grips.jpg
 
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