New M998 Project looking for input.

[Crauly]

Still tossing around ideas for engine and transmission combos. I like the idea of a 4bt, with a turbo and an Allison transmision.

Question,
What 4bt and Allison transmission have the least electrical?

 

[onewoodsrider]

They all need electrical to control the transmission unless you go manual. Plus they are very heavy transmissions for what you get. The 4bt is a great enine and can make good power but its loud and vibrates more so then its big brother. Not to mention that 4bt's seem to be harder to find and demand more money then the 6cyls. I am going with a 6bt,47rh and 242 in my conversion. The 47 can be built to hold back the power but its not cheap. I might change my mind to a 5sp, depends on how someone elses conversions goes lol. Either way i am still a way out before the engine is droped. Good luck on your rig.

 

[Crauly]

They all need electrical to control the transmission unless you go manual. Plus they are very heavy transmissions for what you get. The 4bt is a great enine and can make good power but its loud and vibrates more so then its big brother. Not to mention that 4bt's seem to be harder to find and demand more money then the 6cyls. I am going with a 6bt,47rh and 242 in my conversion. The 47 can be built to hold back the power but its not cheap. I might change my mind to a 5sp, depends on how someone elses conversions goes lol. Either way i am still a way out before the engine is droped. Good luck on your rig.

Thanks for the reply. I'm aware that all transmissions have electrical but im looking for the least amount, some engines and trans have more than others. Not really wanting to do the computer thing, if possible.

Have you done the 6bt, 47RH and 242 TC swap before? what are you end goals with this conversion?

when did you get your truck?

 

[onewoodsrider]

I myself have not done the conversion as of yet. I have been saving up funds and trying to source parts. The 6bt with the 47rh is what i am going to install though. That tranny requires no computer if you want to use toggle switches or solenoids to control the overdrive and to lock up the converter. Down side is you need to build it to handle the power of the cummins and that can get pricey. You really need to talk to chris on this forum. He has done the cummins conversion into his rig and it turned out really nice and that is what motivated me. Not sure whats going to happem when i start though and start bugging him for advice lol.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I in Brentwood calif....not far from you, I run a HMMWV restoration business out of my shop, feel free to PM me if you require any parts or services.....several folks on this forum know who I am and a few are driving my restorations.
I just sold a black CalGold slantback kit about a month ago, wish I knew you needed it...

 

[Crauly]

Well had some set backs, took the truck out and had some bolts come loose at the left half shaft. The vehicle was jumping at the tire on the left side. At the time we weren't sure what was wrong with it. Lets just say after many hours trouble shooting and working on the truck we were able to find the source (half shaft) and will be replacing it. I will also be replacing the other three just to be on the safe side.

I'm still leaning towards the 4bt. In my research, and by a few peoples advice on the 4bt, I have heard that they rattle a bunch. I have also heard that good engine mounts and dampeners will help to dramatically reduce the vibration that occurs at 800 rpm. I have also been told increasing the idle to 900rpm helps. Has anyone used these options to decrease the vibration and what type of difference has anyone had?

I go to LA to get my turret top and pack portion on Monday. Then comes the paint, Linex, and roll bar. I have also installed some LED lights which look good.

 

[3cavtanker]

If you are looking for a 6.5L Turbo engine, may I suggest looking at Junkyards? They were also put in Chevy 3/4T pickups (1995ish). I have a Chevy K2500 and it has essentially the same engine as a HMMWV, except that it has an electronically controlled injection pump instead of cable controlled. Complete block and computer / Wiring harness should not be that hard to cram into a HMMWV chassis.

I've always wanted a stick-shift HMMWV, but I'm not sure how to work the shift linkage....my amateur engineering mind is still chewing on that one.

 

[Crauly]

Update

Ive been really busy on the veh, and has some major set backs with body work. That is all in the past and i have been putting a lot of hours on the truck...Ill post pics and some changes that I have made and some work around that I have used.

 

[Brianmontesa]

Hi my name is Brian. I am in Oregon and just won a m998 hood from GL. It's in Ohio and because of the wood crate it's in, the shipping would be $1,200. It's not worth it! I paid $200. Do you want it? I could have it shipped to you. Or you could pick it up. No money up front. I just want to be bought out. My only other option is to take the $200 loss.

Thanks, Brian 503 347 4129

 

[Crauly]

I prob dont but i know some people that restore them...ill check with them

 

[Brianmontesa]

Thanks, this hood is up for grabs for anyone. It needs an EUC so I have some time. However if nobody can help me out I am sure you will see it back up for auction.

 

[Crauly]

what would be the total cost...

 

[Brianmontesa]

I just want the $200. Its at Patterson afb. I could fax the invoice. When. The euc. Clears and you could pick it up. Just send me a check when completed.

 

[Crauly]

I gave them your info. If there interested they should be calling you...they didn't say if they would be calling. good luck

 

[Crauly]

Much delayed post....

Well had some set backs, took the truck out and had some bolts come loose at the left half shaft. The vehicle was jumping at the tire on the left side. At the time we weren't sure what was wrong with it. Lets just say after many hours trouble shooting and working on the truck we were able to find the source (half shaft) and will be replacing it. I will also be replacing the other three just to be on the safe side.

I'm still leaning towards the 4bt. In my research, and by a few peoples advice on the 4bt, I have heard that they rattle a bunch. I have also heard that good engine mounts and dampeners will help to dramatically reduce the vibration that occurs at 800 rpm. I have also been told increasing the idle to 900rpm helps. Has anyone used these options to decrease the vibration and what type of difference has anyone had?

I go to LA to get my turret top and pack portion on Monday. Then comes the paint, Linex, and roll bar. I have also installed some LED lights which look good.

Here are some of the improvements that I have done to the M998....

First and foremost there are a tone of people that are owed a bunch of thanks and kudos. I will try to remember them all ....

 

[Crauly]

Rapco Paints...what a great company. Very nice people and great paint. I ended up getting such horrible work from a local paint shop a friend of mine and I decided to paint the truck ourselves. Not to mention the vehicle isn't going to be a pavement queen but rather what it was meant to be, an off road vehicle
http://www.rapcoparts.com/manuals.html


Pic of paint used
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9doqml8fh053w66/2012-07-29%2020.31.53.jpg

 

[Crauly]

Cabin, prep for Line-X

The truck had the original, Military floor lining and glue...oh the glue...what a pain that was...

Had to make room for the line-x!

Lets just say, a lot of paint thinner, scraping tools, rags, and more paint thinner. Oh did i mention TIME!

One the carpet was removed the glue, which appeared to be double sided glue strips had to be removed.

Below are before and after pics...

 

[Crauly]

Hard Top

My next extravaganza was to go get the hard top from a guy down in LA. It ended up to be 110 degrees out and I didn't realize the top would be so heavy!

When I picked it up I found out that it was last used in the TV show Shield. We drove it home got it sand blasted and eventually etched. This is was the start of the adventures of the Paint Shop of Horrors, but I digress.

Thanks to All Star Sand Blasting. They did a great job. But I didn't think he knew how tough that CARC paint was to remove. What was supposed to be a three hour job turned into 6!

But it all turned out well, in the end.

 

[Crauly]

Painting

Then started the prep and painting ...

I also had to do a lot of replacing parts, that were broken and were not worth the time to repair. The goal was to do as much of the body work while I did all my research for the engine, and line everything up. I also wanted to keep the color near to original as possible 383 green from Rapco was the best that I found. Not to mention that due to its future home, OFF ROAD, i would eventual cause scratches and the rattle can paint would be the perfect way to touch it up. I also found I didn't want to go completely green so I decided to use flat black to off set the green. I liked the way it turned out, but you can be your own judge.

Below are some before and after...
In some of the pics, some parts were not painted to show difference.

 

[Crauly]

Instalation of Top

Now it was time to install the top. I finally was able to escape the clutches of the Paint Shop of Horrors and come out nearly unscathed. Unfortunately the paint shop lost all the parts they took off to prep/etch the top. So I had to spend a ton of time researching parts and figuring out how things went back together.

This required a lot of BEER!

Here is the top coming together...