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I need help removing my axle seal

DHennon

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Removing the steering Arm

Take the pitman arm off the steering arm. There is a tapered bushing under each stud. Soak the the studs with PB Blaster. It took me about 4 hours of banging, applying heat to the stearing arm around the stubs and more banging. ONLY use a brass hammer, and keep the nuts on the studs far enough to protect the threads. The steering arm will come off. I alternately beat on the top and bottom of the steering arm and around the studs.

After you get the steering arm off, the plate underneath is a piece of cake to remove. I also used a brass drift pin and used it around the steering arm around the studs. Those tapered bushing are REALLY in there.

Good luck. fat lady sings


QUOTE=zeisshensoldt;1177125]Both seals have been removed with the fantastic pipe suggestion. Now I'm stuck with trying to remove the driver side steering king pin plate. Hitting it with a 4 pound hammer doesn't even budge it. Does it just pull off the studs or does the steering arm etc. need disassembling first?[/QUOTE]
 

zeisshensoldt

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Well, I don't have a brass hammer, so hopefully I don't crack or mar things up too badly. Also, is it just as difficult to get the steering arm back on?
 

zeisshensoldt

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Take the pump out of the tank, remove the hose, take to NAPA (or other parts house of choice), ask them to sell you one just like it. Reverse order to complete repairs.
I'd do that, but the one that's on my truck now clearly isn't meant to be submersed in diesel fuel, it has turned into an awful spongy material. Looking for the correct hose here.
 

zeisshensoldt

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Not sure if this will cause any problems, but after 2 hours installing the boot on the knuckle I didn't realize part of the lip on the boot was sticking out until afterwards and I didn't want to redo the whole thing unless absolutely necessary. Will this perhaps cause any leaks or a potential to slipping off the knuckle?
 

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zeisshensoldt

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I ran into 2 more problems on my road to re-assembly. #1-What's the best way to stretch the brake return spring to attach it to the other pad? #2-The brass "C" clamps that go on the bottom of each pad just fall off. I tried bending each one in slightly with a hammer, but it left me with the same results.
 

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doghead

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Open the brake bleeder, and push both shoes together. I like to use visegrips on springs. A brake spring tool is nice too.

Try pliers or visegrips to squeeze the retainer.
 

zeisshensoldt

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After installing the hub, wheel and inner spindle nut, I hear a grinding noise when the wheel is spun. After putting my ear next to the hub it sounds like it's coming from the wheel cylinder area. I'm suspecting that maybe the cylinder sheet metal cover is rubbing against the hub. Possible? What else could it be? Also, I made sure the brake pad tensioners were loosened all the way, so I don't believe that's it. If it is the sheet metal cover I probably wont bother breaking that side down again.

Grind - YouTube
 
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