Are these normal brakes on the M1009?

[edpdx]

I have put in all my brakes since 1977. I have not run across pads like the ones I see on the Blazers in this forum. They look like a royal PITA.

If I take my Blazer in for brakes instead of tackling them myself:

Will the brakes guys know what to do?
Will they get all the right parts?
Will they ream me on price?

Is it as difficult as it looks? I read that the rotor has to be pressed in? Whats with that? Do I have to remove the rotor to get the pads off the caliper?

 

[blackhueys]

pads are easy rotors well thats another story you need special 4 wheel drive socket and have to disassemble the whole hub assymbally practically to replace the rotors. For me I just checked them for out of round on 5 or 6 different spots with my mic gauge and they where with in specs so alight scuff of the surface and new pads is all i did.

 

[tankie88]

Takes me 20 mins to change both sides.

 

[hndrsonj]

Takes me 20 mins to change both sides.

Yeah, they are pretty simple.

 

[wayne pick]

Takes me 20 mins to change both sides.

Ha! Do you use a torch or a cutoff saw? LOL.

 

[BigRix]

Pad slap might take 20 minutes but if you turn rotors and repack brgs, that's gonna take a while longer. Replacing rotors will take even longer.

 

[edpdx]

So it sounds like it is a good idea to check pads often to avoid rotor damage. Pad preference anyone. I like to put the bast pads in to avoid having to do it too often- Raybestos is probably the best? Anyone have a better pad to recommend or a part number?

 

[tankie88]

i was refering to changing pads....not rotors.

 

[wallew]

I've done both a full service and just a pad swap.

The full service took a while. MAINLY because mine had the original setup.

And it took me a while (with the help of a buddy of mine who's a master mechanic) to actually find the silly key/key way setup. ONCE we found that, EZ PEAZY.

The rest of the job was normal work. Took about an hour on the 'other side', once we had discovered the key/key way setup. Remove, replace rotors, pads, change out bearings/races and put new ones in - cheap insurance and you have already removed the old bearings to do a rotor swap anyway, so what the hey.

It's not that hard, just time consuming. You should be able to do it in one day for both sides, if you have all your parts/tools before you start.

OH, don't get HARD pads. They will squeal FOREVER. Been there, done that.

Second set of pads were a middle grade 'softer' pad. Yes they wear a little quicker, but very quiet.

 

[Barrman]

If pulling the front rotors is something you don't want to get into. Buy the cheapest non metalic brake pads you can find. That way, the part intended to wear will and the rotor will live a very long time.

If your caliper is very hard to come off, why? Bolts stuck, rusted to the mount or the piston won't go back?

Stuck bolts should be a one time only problem fixed with thread lube when you go back together.

Rusted to the mount means you only had the inside pad doing any work and therefore, half brakes. Clean up the mount and caliper so it slides easily.

If you can't get it off because the piston still has pressure in it or is frozen in the caliper. Time for a new caliper. I would suggest new hoses to go with them. Maybe $100 for calipers and hoses. Spend the money and you will be good for another 20-30 years.

Look in the -20 manual about what is required to get the hubs off. There isn't much to it. Just a snap ring that will drive you nuts until you figure out how to do it the first time. Then it is a 20 second affair. You need a special socket that any auto parts store will have. Everything else is the same as any other bearing set up. Probably a good idea to look at and repack your bearings. Of course, while you are there. Pulling the knuckle to replace the ujoints is highly recomended. Same with new ball joints. Doing all this yourself sure is cheaper than taking it somewhere or even worse. Having a tow truck come to you and then do the work.

 

[edpdx]

Ok, cheaper pads. Roger that. Do I get the same pads as the Civvy model from 1984 (Blazer)?

Not Raybestos then?

 

[Barrman]

Yes, 1984 K5 Blazer parts. I just get the house brand at whatever store I happen to be in.

Now, I should mention that the high dollar metalic pads do make a difference. If you are going to be pulling loads or stopping from a high speed going down a mountain several times a day, you might be better off with the good pads. 99% of daily driving is just normal stop and go stuff. That is where the cheap pads help out and not hurt any.