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M35A2 Turn Signal Flasher Repair...

stumps

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anyone have the PN for the power transistor, I think a friend's might have gone south when he was trying to wire in a trailer connector
It is a TO3 package, and is marked Motorola 1052-5. That doesn't seem to track any of their usual numbers, though. When I get a chance, I will put one on a curve tracer, and see if I can recognize it.... assuming it is good, of course.

-Chuck
 

Beerslayer

Well-known member
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There are small kits of casting epoxy formulated for electronic circuitry available from places like Alllied Electronics, Newark etc. Try MG Chemicals Part# 832B-375ml for example.
McMaster Carr is also a good source for potting compound. They have a non-corrosive two part silicon rubber that I have used with great success.
 

TIGERFANS2

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Topeka, Ks
It is a TO3 package, and is marked Motorola 1052-5. That doesn't seem to track any of their usual numbers, though. When I get a chance, I will put one on a curve tracer, and see if I can recognize it.... assuming it is good, of course.

-Chuck

Thanks,

Mike
 

HILLBILLY 06

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Alabama
I been wondering if anyone had ever done this before...
Now I know it can be done, so I will likely try it on mine too.. Thanks for the post.
 

HILLBILLY 06

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Location
Alabama
I dug all the stuff out of my flasher today..
Man there was corrosion all over the power Transistor # M1025-5. Also was corrosion on the circuit board. I cleaned it off, fixed/repaired a place on the board that I kinked up with my screw driver... and same problem as before I began this process, It worked for about 40 blinks in flasher mode, then it quit.
I left everything on, but tapped lightly on the power transistor (the really bad corroded part) and it started working again. How do you get that part out to replace it? I see the screws, but I also see a lot of solder on the circuit board... I don't have a solder sucker, so if I need one of those to help get it out, I'm out of luck...LOL.
Are those power transistors still common on the market? or do I need to look for something very similar? You guy's seem to know what you are doing, this is my first time with a flasher...
 

VPed

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Clint, TX
You can buy solder wick instead of a solder sucker. it is a small roll of braided, fine copper wire. You touch some to the solder joint and heat with an iron. The solder will wick onto the braid. Cut off the used portion of braid and repeat with fresh wick until all of the solder you want removed is gone. I actually prefer it to a solder sucker. Finely stranded copper wire will work similarly but you may have to pre-flux it.
 
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