Fuel Delivery System Overhaul

[donalloy1]

Well here I go Fellow SS's. Hoping this Tread will help others? Will keep you all up to speed as I make progress.

Reason for Fuel System Overhaul.

IP leaking and poor fuel mpg. Starts up fine then drops fuel prime. Really hard to get going again. Want to start running WMO/WVO. So all OEM rubber lines get new SS.

Step 1 - Remove IP and have rebuilt. Gunshy of doing myself.

Step 2 - R & R Fuel Pump.

Step 3 - Service Fuel Filter Manifold and replace Filter.

Step 4 - Replace all questionable fuel supply lines.

Step 5 - Replace GP's

Step 6 - Service and or replace Injectors. Not sure which way I will go with this step? Will see if Stanadyne agent can help.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as always. DMLII sends...

 

[wallew]

If you want to replace them? It's supposed to be fairly easy. And if you want, you could upgrade to the MARINE version, which will double your HP. Probably make your MPG go down, but there are trade offs in life.

Contact these guys, they sell the MARINE version tips for around $100 for the set. Then just remove yours one at a time, pull the tip, replace with new one, reinstall - repeat seven more times and you're good to go.

USDiesel / US Diesel -- Fuel injection replacement parts, tools, and equipment

 

[donalloy1]

If you want to replace them? It's supposed to be fairly easy. And if you want, you could upgrade to the MARINE version, which will double your HP. Probably make your MPG go down, but there are trade offs in life.

Contact these guys, they sell the MARINE version tips for around $100 for the set. Then just remove yours one at a time, pull the tip, replace with new one, reinstall - repeat seven more times and you're good to go.

USDiesel / US Diesel -- Fuel injection replacement parts, tools, and equipment

Great tip wallew! Thanks for advice. How dramatic is the trade off? DMLII sends...

 

[Hasdrubal]

" upgrade to the MARINE version, which will double your HP."

Sorry to sound so sceptical, but isn't this a myth, ie..incorrect or misleading info. I think I've read here on a thread somewhere that this has been de-bunked, that there is no gain from going with the marine injectors. I mean double the HP, its hardly believable. But do share your dyno readings or whatever information you have to back up this claim.

 

[chevyCUCV]

Marine tips wont do anything for power until you are turbo'ed and pumping more fuel, although one person on another forum says that they do produce a better spray patter though with WMO.

And it is very important that you set the pop pressure of your injectors after you rebuild them. Want them all as close as possible and with marine nozzles you are supossed to set them over 2800 psi i think. Not setting the pressures will result in different timing (time it takes to build pressure) on each cylinder.

 

[tamecrow]

Marine injectors won't add anything by themselves. It's the pump that meters the amount of fuel delivered, not the injectors. Both the marine and the stock nozzle have the same orifice size. On the marine version the pintle has more travel allowing it to flow more fuel 'if' more fuel is supplied to it.

Here's a good 'how to' on how to replace the nozzles in the injectors. vincewaldon.com - HOW-TO: Rebuild Diesel IDI Injectors

An easy job, but a little more involved than just opening the injector body and throwing in a new nozzle. The waive washers should be replaced as well and the injectors should be pop tested. Otherwise you have no idea how they are spraying or what the pop pressure is. I rebuild a lot of injectors and only use Bosch nozzles made in Germany on these injectors. Last week it took me an entire evening to lap a set of Chinese nozzles to stop them from leaking before their pop pressure was reached. Before I repeatedly lapped the cheap nozzles they sprayed worse than the old ones. These were brought to me by a friend. If I hadn't pop tested them I would have no idea of how they were spraying before I installed them.

You can make your own pop tester for around 50 bucks using a modified bottle jack. PeachPartsWiki: How to build a Diesel Injector Pop Tester

 

[donalloy1]

Received Loud and Clear!

Will just have OEM units brought back to specs and or replaced with OEM units. I am sure she will be very happy I did it! Thanks for ALL your input SS's. I have never been down this road before. Going to take it slow with all information I can gather to generate highest possible level of success!

DMLII sends...

 

[Skinny]

Plans for replacement fuel hose? Anyone using clear Viton?

 

[donalloy1]

Plans for replacement fuel hose? Anyone using clear Viton?

All I have heard here is go SS. Was thinking of trying Viton myself. Wonder how it would react to WVO?

Worked on Beast till 21:00 last night. Gut is tight as Drum. Couple Fastners harder to get than I thought. Much Plumbing and more in way of Intake Manifold removal. Hope to have all out of way tonight for IP removal. DMLII sends...

 

[Keith_J]

All I have heard here is go SS. Was thinking of trying Viton myself. Wonder how it would react to WVO?

Worked on Beast till 21:00 last night. Gut is tight as Drum. Couple Fastners harder to get than I thought. Much Plumbing and more in way of Intake Manifold removal. Hope to have all out of way tonight for IP removal. DMLII sends...

Don't use waste vegetable oil. It corrodes the system. Viton can be attacked by acidic waste vegetable oil.

If you have a source of WVO, convert it to biodiesel.

 

[Skinny]

From what I read, you want fuel line that is F-4040-A rated. This is translucent yellow and will take pretty much anything we could ever throw at it. McMaster Carr has it by the foot. Pretty expensive but I will only use it up in the engine bay to see if the system has air in it. I will also use one time use stainless steel crimps...set it and forget it.

 

[donalloy1]

Phase 2 complete. Intake Manifold has been removed and IP supply lines are disconnected. Boy that was fun. Who needs Abs of Steel like seen on TV. Just come over to my place and work on Beast. Your Gut will be tight as a drum!

Do I need to line up Witness Marks before I remove IP? Diving into TM's for IP removal procedure. Do NOT want to create more work down the road.

As always your input is greatly appreciated, DMLII sends....

P.S. What is purpose of center port?

 

[tamecrow]

P.S. What is purpose of center port?

Exhaust port for engines equipped with an EGR.

 

[tamecrow]

Do I need to line up Witness Marks before I remove IP?

No need to line up the marks before removal. Just don't turn the engine over after you remove the pump. I find it easier to leave the injector lines attached to the pump for removal and installation. It pulls off and on like a big spider with the lines attached.

 

[donalloy1]

Okie Dokie SS's off she comes! Then rebuild time. DMLII sends respectfully...

 

[donalloy1]

Thought it would be a good time to become VERY friendly with TM regarding installation procedure for IP. Cannot find it anywhere. Could somebody point me in right direction. Which TM/section? Thanks, DMLII sends....

 

[donalloy1]

No need to line up the marks before removal. Just don't turn the engine over after you remove the pump. I find it easier to leave the injector lines attached to the pump for removal and installation. It pulls off and on like a big spider with the lines attached.

Removed all three nuts and IP does not want to come off? Will come away from mount a liitle ways then will not come back any further. Seems like it is free and loose. Can easily rotate. Rather not pry and beat on it. Am I missing something.

 

[tamecrow]

Removed all three nuts and IP does not want to come off? Will come away from mount a liitle ways then will not come back any further. Seems like it is free and loose. Can easily rotate. Rather not pry and beat on it. Am I missing something.

Did you remove the 3 bolts holding the pump gear on?

 

[donalloy1]

No I have not. Was just looking at TM.

1. Remove three capscrews (1) and pump driven gear (2) from fuel injection pump (5).
2. Remove idle return spring (7) from throttle lever (6).
3. Remove three nuts ( and washers (9) from fuel injection pump (5) and timing gear cover (3).
4. Remove two capscrews (10) and accelerator cable bracket (11) from fuel injection pump (5).​

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WARNING.​

Gaskets installed on some 6.2L engines assembled prior to 1991
may contain asbestos. Gaskets should be removed with a scraper
or putty knife and then be disposed of IAW current directives.
Inhalation of asbestos fibers can cause respiratory ailments.​

5. Remove the fuel injection pump (5) and gasket (4) from cover (3). Discard gasket (4).

Thought she would come right off. Now I am begining to get concerned. According to TM I need to remove pump, cover etc then remove bolts holding pump gear on. Is there an easier way?

 

[tamecrow]

No I have not. Was just looking at TM.

1. Remove three capscrews (1) and pump driven gear (2) from fuel injection pump (5).
2. Remove idle return spring (7) from throttle lever (6).
3. Remove three nuts ( and washers (9) from fuel injection pump (5) and timing gear cover (3).
4. Remove two capscrews (10) and accelerator cable bracket (11) from fuel injection pump (5).​

.​

WARNING.​

Gaskets installed on some 6.2L engines assembled prior to 1991
may contain asbestos. Gaskets should be removed with a scraper
or putty knife and then be disposed of IAW current directives.
Inhalation of asbestos fibers can cause respiratory ailments.​

5. Remove the fuel injection pump (5) and gasket (4) from cover (3). Discard gasket (4).

Thought she would come right off. Now I am begining to get concerned. According to TM I need to remove pump, cover etc then remove bolts holding pump gear on. Is there an easier way?

The 3 bolts can be removed through the oil fill tube. Just unbolt the tube and look in the hole and you'll see the topside of the gear. You'll have to rotate the engine to access the bolts.