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M37: Them's the brakes; driving fun; future plans

rmvivas

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Columbia County, NY
One of the things I notice in my reading about M37's is that the brakes and their performance are often supposedly lacking.

I was tooling along the other day and noticed that my ability to stop was not exactly the greatest. Actually my ability to stop could be much better described as 'my ability to slow down somewhat'. Pedal would go right down to the floor.

Anyway, I got back to Firebase Vivas and pulled out TM 9-8030 and started reading about brakes adjustments. I figured that I probably needed new brakes and would have to make adjustments o the current ones until I could order new ones.

A little voice in my head said that before I started looking at major issues, perhaps this was a minor issue.

TM 9-8030 para. 215 How To heck Brake Fluid Level. OK, lets start with the easy stuff. Pop off access plate. So far so good. remove Master Cylinder Filler Plug. OK, how do I do that? I don't have a square drive screwdriver blade........wait a sec.....ok, idiot me, a half inch socket extension does the trick.....open it up...hey, where's the brake fluid?

Ok it wasn't -that- bad but it was definitely -low-. Now I had been crawling around under my M37 trying to get familiar with it and don't recall seeing anything that looked like a brake line leak. Still, I'll monitor the level and see if it changes.

Poured in the prescribed amount of break fluid, closed everything up and....Holy Crap!!!!...the brakes work. Really well! I actually locked up the tires and left skid marks.

Now for most of you guys this is a no-brainer; I, however, am so mechanically uninclined when it comes to motor vehicles that, for me, this was good work!

Lessons learned by this mechanical neophyte:
1) Check the easiest fixes first
2) When you see something that has a square opening for a torqueing tool, it's probably a 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2 socket extension that you'll need.

============================
Anyway, with the temperature being almost 80 here the other day I decided to do what I had secretly fantasized about ever since I was a kid (clarify: fantasy that does -not- include other people, nudity, leather or Tabasco sauce); I drove the back country roads with the windshield down and wind in my face and it was absolutely freaking awesome!!!! For a little bit all was right with the world.

Since the brakes now seem to work, I decided to see what else I could do while I had good weather. Got the speedometer hooked up. The cable is short enough that it is a tricky little bit of finger maneuvering to get the thing screwed on, but I got it.

Went driving around a lot and I am still amazed at the amount of looks and comments I get on this thing. Lots of folks look and a few of the older guys look really hard. Once in a while some older fellow will see it and you can watch the set of his eyes change, his jaw will tighten and you can tell that for a split second he's back in Phuc Luc Province 1966.

I've really had a great time the past 2 days driving this thing. It feels like real driving rather than the experience when I drive, say, my wife's 2006 Trailblazer. It's one thing to have power steering, power brakes, radio, soundproofing and all the snivel comforts. With my M37 I actually feel like I'm driving and because I have been playing around in and under it, as I drive I can visualize in my head what's happening when I shift, turn, accelerate, etc. It's rather enjoyable.

Someone asked me today what I intend to do with this thing. Am I going to restore it; modify it; leave it as is, etc.

Good question. It's at a very awkward stage; there's enough originality to it that it would likely be a good restoration candidate but there are also some non-military features that would lend itself to being 'sporterized'.

As someone who was in the arms business for MANY years with an emphasis on historical military small arms, I remember how I felt when someone would come in with a pristine M1903 Springfield with WW1 barrel dates and ask if we could put a synthetic stock on it, drill and tap it for a scope and rechamber it to 7mm WinMag.

I wonder if there might not be some middle ground. Make it the vehicle equivalent of the guy who still sports a high and tight, ramrod posture and a military bearing even though he's in civvies and works at the local sporting goods store. Keep the military features but put them under a civilian color scheme. I don't know.

I have seen some folks who have taken M37's and pimped them out to an incredible level. I don't see myself putting neon underlighting, 22" spinners or 1,000 watt sub woofers in. Perhaps a civilian paint job and a few non military mods to be retained (like the weapons grade front bumper assembly and the cool rear bumper assembly with hitch).

My goal right now is to get the winch rebuilt, as it is laying on my bench. I've shot images of the disassembly process and pretty much memorized the parts drawings. I am pretty sure that the only thing that needs to be replaced is the worm shaft and the various gaskets. The other goal would be to get the hardware together for putting the sides and troop seats in. There seems to be enough places selling the hardware its just, as usual, a question of money.

Man, it's fun driving this thing. The big 2 1/2 ton one's must be even more of a blast!
 
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Storm 51

Just a Grunt
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Seattle, WA
Just a thought for you to consider - if you keep it stock, you can always rely on the manuals to bail your ass out (well, almost always).

I've learned that it makes life simpler. :grin:

Do the first one stock. You'll learn a lot and learn the "engineering theory" behind the truck.
After that you can start "experimenting" and customizing your next truck.

Yes, there will be a "next" truck; there always is. :roll:
 

zout

In Memorial
In Memorial
7,744
154
63
Location
Columbus Georgia
Just me - but if it were that low and indications of not having been checked before - once refilled on the resevoir I would have bled out the entire remaining of old fluid and fresh into the whole system - what was left and kept you sort of brakes was all the old chit. No reason to leave it in there as it probably has deterioated.
 

hndrsonj

Senior Chief/Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Cheyenne, WY
You can keep it looking stock while increasing the driveability. For example, change the front and rear ends gears to gain top end speed, google uglytruckling and add his disk brakes, power steering ect.
 

Kasper31

Member
409
0
16
Location
South East Michigan
rmvivas
I agree with Storm51 on keeping it stock, with one modification. Put a duel master cylinder on it for the safety of having better brakes. If you install the 4:89 gears please be sure that you do the brake mod AND ! watch your crusing speeds planning ahead for stops.
Enjoy the truck, it'll be alot of fun.:p
 

Cav Trooper

New member
110
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Location
Hamilton, Ohio
M37 upgrades

I purchased my M37 about a year and half ago. It was sitting in a barn and had been "parade driver restored"?? It had new paint, markings, new tires, new wiring, new brakes, engine rebuilt, still 24v system, new canvas. It look really good and I paid a premium for it. I didn't think so at the time but it needed some small and some bigger fixes. The truck wouldn't do over 35 mph and would spark knock like crazy, the PO said he never could get it running better either. He had had the engine rebuilt by an old mechanic, since passed on. Turned out the guy had installed the oil pump one tooth off which meant the distributor could not be rotated to tdc or close, it was way too far advanced. It was amazing that the truck ran. I fixed that.. Next I still couldn't get rid of the 35 mph max and now with the timing on the mark, I would get a governor surge that I couldn't adjust out. The carb had been rebuilt but the float was set a about 1/4" above the bowl and the high speed jet was stripped out in the bottom of the carb, new carb was in order. The carb in place and adjusted, now, 45 to 50 mph, no surge but I still have to anticipate long hills, but that's part of driving the beast. Next, the brakes were all new, lines, cylinders, shoes and drums turned. With all of that, I still couldn't get a good adjustment, finally got descent pedal after a dozen bleed sessions and readjusting and rearching the shoes. Pedal is now about half was down. I did replace the master cylinder with a dual chamber but, the PO had put silicone brake fluid in and I got tired of $40 a quart to bleed the brakes and still get some spongey feeling. My next project is to install front discs and all new rubber lines and wheel cylinders, flushing all the hard lines with solvent and dot 3 to get rid of the silicone. I've had to replace the front timing chain crankshaft seal and cover, the old cover had been beaten up badly and the seal was installed backwards so, it leaked nicely. I had leaks in all the differential input seals and the transfer case so, I replace all of them and had to rebuild the transfer case as the bearings had gotten water in and went south. The old girl is getting pretty reliable now. I rebuilt the steering gear box and the drag link bushings. I decided that she would look much meaner with a winch so, I bought one and rebuilt it found that the front end had been hit hard enough to bend the frame channels at the front spring shackles so I had to cut and weld them straight, could have taken it to a frame shop but fixed it myself, now the winch fits and the bumpers are straight. I then decided to find a spare tire mount for the door, got one at the MVPA convention and naturally needed a new spare tire to mount out there. New vacuum wiper motors, and a few other little goodies, next is a PRC77 radio to hook up to the antenna that was mounted on her. I even got my ham license for it. Like it has been said before on this site, it turns a lot of heads and I take it to a cruise in once in a while and it's become my rifle range vehicle. Not the best on gas but it sure is fun. I almost forgot, I installed one of Midwest's NOS heaters on it also. I keep throwing green at it and it seems to like it since it's staying green. I don't plan on doing anything more in upgrades, the ones I did were for realiability and safety, then the rest for beauty. Got to love em!!!
 

Cav Trooper

New member
110
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Location
Hamilton, Ohio
Almost forgot, turn signals and new door glass on right side, also have to install the jump seat. Rerouted the electric fuel pump to the back just in front of the gas tank, installed a marine fuel filter. The PO didn't install the original mechanical fuel pump and put the electric one on the right inner fender. The cap that was installed to cover the fuel pump hole leaked also so, I found a broken fuel pump and routed the fuel lines through it to look like it was working. All new gauges also. $$$$ but she's not any more expensive than any other woman...LOL
 

MSG Rusty

New member
11
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0
Location
Pascoag Rhode Island
A little help here on Brakes.
The wheel cylinder on the left front is leaking. Can they be rebuilt on the truck ? Is it worth rebuilding them ?

It would be realy nice to be able to stop the truck with out running into somthing. The truckmakes out ok but what ever I hit is in for some trouble.
 

majorhitt

New member
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Location
Dallas Pa.
I bit the bullet and replaced each wheel cylinder, I can't recall the cost. I feel better knowing that it stops better. These trucks don't have the best stopping power, so every little bit helps.
 

Tanner

Active member
1,013
11
38
Location
Raleigh, NC
Another key is to adjust the shoes out to proper specs/minimal drag before bleeding the air out of system. I've seen too many people do this backwards & then talk about how far the pedal drops when applying the brakes.

'Tanner'
 

Rusty1340

New member
95
1
0
Location
Middle River, Maryland
A little help here on Brakes.
The wheel cylinder on the left front is leaking. Can they be rebuilt on the truck ? Is it worth rebuilding them ?

It would be realy nice to be able to stop the truck with out running into somthing. The truckmakes out ok but what ever I hit is in for some trouble.
Rusty, I just finished my brakes and wow do they work and work good. I was going to rebuild my wheel cyls and John over mid west Military said if i need to run a hone through it chances are they would leak. I purchased all 4 new wheel cylinders along with a master cylinder. I have no regrets.

Going is very important but stopping is even more important Don’t take chances
 

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