brake issue???

[commandojd]

I just replaced all my brake lines and I poured my new fluid into the master cylinder. Do I need a special pump or something? Because I opened a bleeder and poured in the fluid and pumped the brake pedal and nothing happens. I hear the solution sloshing around, but nothing comes out. Let me know if I just not doing this right or if my cylinder is stot???
thanks

 

[onegmjack]

Do a search for brake pressure bleeder.Should be a few posts on how to make one,from a graden sprayer.

 

[caliber1]

Try this one, it's the one I copied. Works awesome.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/3229-deuce-power-bleeder-r4x4-style.html

 

[doghead]

Are you experianced at brake bleeding?

It is covered in the -20 TM.

You need to bleed the airpack first.(also in the -20)

You do not need a power bleeder, but it make it a one man job, and works better than pumping the master cylinder.

 

[markmontana]

Be sure to read the TM and the search posts about the proper sequence of the bleed. Starting with the airpack.

 

[FormerNewMVGuy]

You cant just open bleeders and then pump the pedal, close the bleeders , pump the pedal , and have a second person cracking the bleeders, while you hold pressure on the pedal...
But i'm sure you already knew that....

 

[commandojd]

Thank you all for the good advice. I just went out and messed with it a little more and after thirty minutes of trying to bleed the air pack and wheels...I loosened the line tht runs from the master cylinder to the air pack and pumped it....And nothing came out. I even had the cylinder full. It looks like their might be something blocking it or something?? What do you guys think?
\ thanks

 

[doghead]

Are you experienced in bleeding brakes?

 

[onegmjack]

You have a airlock,fluid in the top but none down in the bore.You get this when master cylinder is pumped dry,from line I would guess.

 

[onegmjack]

I should have asked why did you replace all your lines?Did you have a leak?

 

[jerseyjeep2003]

Nothing coming out of the MC, I'd start with bench bleeding the MC. That will generally get the air out of the MC, then move on to bleeding at the airpack, then work your way around each wheel cylinder starting with the one farthest from the MC and work your way to the closest. You will go through a lot of fluid, so be prepared with at least a gallon on hand.

 

[Tow4]

Are you experienced in bleeding brakes?

I'm going to guess, no.

To the OP, it takes two people to do the pump the pedal and crack the bleeder procedure. If you replaced lines it's going to be easier to bleed them with a pressure bleeder. You can make one from a one gallon garden sprayer. The vent on top of the master cylinder cap is a standard metal brake line fitting. You can get a short metal line with fitting or use your vent tube if its loose when you remove it from the cap.

Start bleeding at the passenger side rear tandem wheel and work your way forward. Most say bleed the airpack first; I did it last. I don't think it matters with a pressure bleeder; I didn't get any air out of it.

Good luck.

 

[commandojd]

I should have asked why did you replace all your lines?Did you have a leak?

That may be the issue! I didnt think about that.....
Yes, I had to replace a few of my lines, it had the originals from the 70s and they were leaky as can be....so I just decided to replace them all..
Now to get ride of the air, how should I approach this? Do I have to remove the entire cylinder?
thnks

 

[commandojd]

I'm going to guess, no.

To the OP, it takes two people to do the pump the pedal and crack the bleeder procedure. If you replaced lines it's going to be easier to bleed them with a pressure bleeder. You can make one from a one gallon garden sprayer. The vent on top of the master cylinder cap is a standard metal brake line fitting. You can get a short metal line with fitting or use your vent tube if its loose when you remove it from the cap.

Start bleeding at the passenger side read tandem wheel and work your way forward. Most say bleed the airpack first; I did it last. I don't think it matters with a pressure bleeder; I didn't get any air out of it.

Good luck.

Ya, not as much as I should be Im kind of new to the MV game and Im learning fast! I read the TMs and tried the proper bleeding tecs but nothing seemed to work.

 

[onegmjack]

If you leave the line loose on the master cylinder or take it off. Have someone slowly push the brake pledal,when it is at the floor put you thumb over the outlet on the master cylinder
and have the person let the pedal come up,do this a few times till you have pressure.

 

[commandojd]

If you leave the line loose on the master cylinder or take it off. Have someone slowly push the brake pledal,when it is at the floor put you thumb over the outlet on the master cylinder
and have the person let the pedal come up,do this a few times till you have pressure.

Ok, Ill give it a shot and see how it works.
thanks!

 

[swbradley1]

The last time we did one that was dry Gimp and I used this one that I had purchased just in case:

Motive Products #1 Selling DIY Brake Bleeder

I then went to Parker-Hannifin and got some extra adapters for quick disconnect.

You can also get a collector bottle and hose that will catch the fluid coming out of the bleeder valves rather than let it run all over the place (and you).

 

[commandojd]

Ya, I finally got it working......their was a air pocket in the cylinder! It just took a little extra time to squeeze the air out. And rather let the fluid run all over when bleeding, I did use a hose and bucket. I filled my truck with one bottle! That DOT-5 stuff is like $30 a quart
Thak you all for the great advive...its appreciated

 

[Heavysteven]

I made so videos on YouTube maybe they can help you.


[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RazeaTyiIFU&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/media]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyQ7pZPiqnI&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/media]

 

[eddiec]

You cannt just remove the lines and then pump the brake peddle, it will only push then pull the fluid. You have to FORCE the fluid through the system, not pull the fluid back in