1985 m1009 alt options

[wiccantoy]

Ok have problems with not having enough power on 12v alternator that has been tested by my alt and starter company. Seems my stock 100a alt is showing a 135a draw when I have the lights wipers, and emergency light bar on. I want to put a larger amp alternator in to solve this problem. I was thinking it was the battery's but replaced both of them. really don't know what one to buy. But this has to stop.

 

[Recovry4x4]

LED lightbar would help. 135A draw has to be the lightbar.

 

[wiccantoy]

Sorry bud but I have as many problems without the light bar even being on. And as far as a led one, can't do that with a 85. I have a a $1400 bar on my 99 f450. More than I wanted to spend but got it all tricked out to be brighter than the cop cars.

 

[doghead]

Surely your alternator shop can suggest an adequate alternator(possibly in the 180 amp range).

 

[Warthog]

They do make a 27si type 200 that should fit.

The stock one is a 27si type 100

Maybe even rebuild the old one with a 200 amp stator and rotor

 

[wiccantoy]

Isn't the hummer alternators higher and able to fit the 1009?

 

[cpf240]

Isn't the hummer alternators higher and able to fit the 1009?

Doesn't the HMMWV use a serpentine belt system? I suppose you could change the pulley.

I wouldn't make it harder than it needs to be. Warthog had a good suggestion on an alt that should be pretty easy to get, perhaps easier than looking for a good surplus HMMWV alt. Probably cheaper too. Just make sure it only goes on the drivers side, unless you do the case mod and internal insulators to make it an isolated ground alt.

 

[JND Cucv]

Doesnt the HMMWV use tha 24v alternator? Kinda like the m1010? I could easily be wrong

 

[brokedown]

That is a fantastic amount of power draw. Has the wiring been upgraded to handle the load? Is there a fuse in front of the light bar? You could start a fire very easily with the ~1400 watts that must be going to it.

 

[wiccantoy]

The light bar isn't the only problem. I can unhook everything for it and still have issues with draw

 

[brokedown]

Is there some other power-draining mod on the truck that would account for it? Also, how reliable is that 135a draw measurement?

 

[wiccantoy]

No other draw but heater, headlights, wipers, and 4 ways. Measurement was done by a pro that came out to my truck with his tools and has been doing it for 15 years.

 

[doghead]

135a draw when I have the lights wipers, and emergency light bar on. I want to put a larger amp alternator in to solve this problem.

The light bar isn't the only problem. I can unhook everything for it and still have issues with draw

At first you made it sound like the light bar was your only issue.

Can you explain your issue with draw without the light bar.

 

[brokedown]

Wish I had better advice for you, but if it were my truck I'd start unhooking things until I found where the draw was. Google tells me an old style light bar should be in the 40a range, the truck running with lights should be in the 40a range too, so pure guestimation is that there is another 55a being lost somewhere.. at 12v thats 660 watts or so missing, more than enough to cause a Real Problem.

 

[Westech]

Between the rotten English and bad spelling I almost did not finish reading this post.
But, I will give this a try and be nice about it.
135 Amps? I am assuming that the wiring has been up graded or the connections are direct to the batteries. A M style alternator will NOT FIT in the CUCV. The 24/12 volt unit is around 50 pounds and has a lifting hook in it to give you a idea how large it is. You may be able to mod one in but it is sure not going to be a bolt in. You would also need to install another temp sending unit for the 24/12 alternator. They sense engine heat and adjust out put accordingly. I do not know how it all works. I just have replaced about 100 of them in the last 5 months over here and know what they need to work correctly.
The sugestion of installing a 200 Amp 27SI sounds like what you want. Only one problem. The CUCV has a single belt drive. If you are using 130 plus amps, a single belt drive is not going to work. The alternator will draw and the belt will slip. Also you will need to upgrade the charging wire. The wire may start on fire if you double its work load.

 

[wiccantoy]

Ok simply put. I start the blazer in the am. Let it warm up and if I use the headlamps, wipers, heater, and blinkers the gage will go from green to red and the Gp will start making a little noise until I turn something off. Than it will go back to the green. Kinda sad really I haven't hooked up my radio yet. Not sure how it will do with the issues im having now. Which is why I've had both alternators tested while off the k5, and a ton of new parts.

 

[wiccantoy]

This is the problem. It does all this when im going to the store for my morning coffee. No light bar.if I get a fire call and n red my light bar than look out. Really have no power

 

[doghead]

Is this problem only when it's cold? Is it when the glow plugs are cycling? That's about 80 amps. Have you modified your glow plug supply voltage source?

It sounds to me like, the real problem you have is, you think you need a dependable emergency vehicle. A 25 year old cucv is a poor choice, imho.

 

[Mainsail]

Start pulling fuses. Begin with the heater blower motor. Pull the fuses for whatever accessories you normally run- one at a time- until you figure out which is causing the high draw.

 

[wiccantoy]

And than do what about it if found?