How have you civilized your MEP Generators?

[mdlbldrmatt135]

Does a propane conversion to my MEP-016A (soon to be a C) count??? That's about all I've done so far.

 

[Triple Jim]

I'm sure I'm not the first to make these mods to an MEP-003A, but here are three. Actually the first was already done when I got the unit. It's a simple battery disconnect that you can get cheaply:



I added a fuel pressure gauge to the bleed port on the final fuel filter by welding a 1/16" pipe nipple to a 1/8" female half-coupling:



And I added a battery charging connector so I can plug in a 24V charger once in a while without worrying about a dog knocking loose battery clamps. The left terminal strip's 5th and 6th position have 24V battery voltage on them. The bottom terminal is ground. I used an inline fuse holder to keep things safe. Of course the battery disconnect above must be in the "on" state to use this charging connector.

 

[dependable]

I tried this spare CUCV muffler on my MEP-002a s. On the one with the ASK, it makes it a lot more 'civilized'. While there is a lot of mechanical noise on the non ASK unit, the muffler makes a noticeable difference, especially if you move away and on the control board side of generator. The extra muffler does not seem to effect the performance. I am going make a bracket and leave it on the ASK equipped unit.

 

[Triple Jim]

I picked up a couple Chinese 0-50A Ammeters with current transformers from eBay. They come as a set, one meter and one transformer. They're set up so you run the wire you want to measure current in though the hole in the current transformer, and connect two leads from there to a meter. Now I can see the current on L1 and L3 that my house is drawing from the MEP-003A from inside the house. Two meter-transformer sets were $30 total, delivered. The beige thing that the red wire is going through is one of the current transformers. Being able to easily see the current in both lines is already helping with load balancing.

 

[1800 Diesel]

I used one of these to build a power distribution box. I am going to mount it into a fat 50 ammo can and use o reliance power inlet plug on it

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=11-3306&catname=electric

Quickfarms--good idea on the power box. I've been wanting to set up an MEP002A on a trailer to handle power needs for users that just need a bunch of cords connected & that don't have the setup to do a whole-house connection...I'm curious about the connector on the rear of that box. (This can be seen on the Surplus Ctr extra photos.) I assume you just fed your wiring through several grommets installed into the rear of the box or what? Or did the box come with a female plug to connect to the one on the rear of the box? Thanks.

 

[1800 Diesel]

I'm sure I'm not the first to make these mods to an MEP-003A, but here are three. Actually the first was already done when I got the unit. It's a simple battery disconnect that you can get cheaply:

I added a fuel pressure gauge to the bleed port on the final fuel filter by welding a 1/16" pipe nipple to a 1/8" female half-coupling:

And I added a battery charging connector so I can plug in a 24V charger once in a while without worrying about a dog knocking loose battery clamps. The left terminal strip's 5th and 6th position have 24V battery voltage on them. The bottom terminal is ground. I used an inline fuse holder to keep things safe. Of course the battery disconnect above must be in the "on" state to use this charging connector.

Jim,

All mods are great ideas--the batt disconnect is a $5 WM item. What fuel pressure have you been reading while running? I like the 24v connector--what's your source for this item?

 

[Triple Jim]

I see right around 11 PSI at the gauge when running or priming. I suspected that the 10-year old fuel I'm trying to use up would make it slowly drop, but it's holding steady so far. A different length and/or angle of the fitting for the gauge might let you install it without having to make the clearance cut in the frame, but it looks kinda neat with the cutout.

I honestly don't remember where I got the mil spec 3-pin connectors because I got them decades ago. Maybe a place I worked where one product was thermal targets for military night practice. Also possibly at a hamfest. They're Amphenol connectors, and may be the same ones that places like Mouser stock, although the color might be different. If you want this type in particular, I can get out a magnifier and get the part numbers off all the pieces. It's no problem, lemme know.

 

[LuckyDog]

I picked up a couple Chinese 0-50A Ammeters with current transformers from eBay. They come as a set, one meter and one transformer. ...

Part Number or something??? I would love to do something like that with My 002A.

 

[Triple Jim]

The item title was/is "Rectangle Analog AMP Meter AC 50A + Current Transformer". The seller has a huge eBay store called "Asia Engineer". If you search within that store for something like "ac meter" it'll help. There are 20A, 50A, and 100A versions, digital versions, etc.. Since there is no direct connection to the line, I wasn't concerned with the safety of the meters and transformers.

Interestingly, the transformers came with a little piece of paper that shows the wire looped around the transformer once, instead of just going straight through, with a note that says "1 loop". If you do it that way, you're actually making two turns. I did a test with a heater, and found that as I suspected, that will make the meter read double the actual current, so I ran my wire through only once. But if you wanted a 0-25A meter, you could do it as they show. The plastic cover comes off fairly easily, so you could make a new 0-25 scale in that case.

 

[ETN550]

I do a battery tray conversion on all of the MEP-016B, MEP-016E, and MEP-701A's that I come across. The new battery tray takes (2) 12 volt lawn and garden batteries replacing the single 4HN 24 volt battery.

The existing 4HN 24 volt battery is expensive, and hard to get, or at least only a few sources. If it goes flat then a 24 volt charger would be needed to charge it.

The U1 lawn and garden batteries are cheap and plentiful and on the shelf everywhere. They come in plenty of AMP ratings up to and exceeding the stock battery. They can be charged separately with a 12 volt charger or jumped separately off a 12 volt system such as a car. I put the disconnect in the middle cable so the batteries are separated when disconnected allowing for separate 12 volt charging with no tools involved. I have found this to be a great modification so I though I would share.

 

[ctfjr]

I picked up a couple Chinese 0-50A Ammeters with current transformers from eBay. They come as a set, one meter and one transformer. They're set up so you run the wire you want to measure current in though the hole in the current transformer, and connect two leads from there to a meter. Now I can see the current on L1 and L3 that my house is drawing from the MEP-003A from inside the house. Two meter-transformer sets were $30 total, delivered. The beige thing that the red wire is going through is one of the current transformers. Being able to easily see the current in both lines is already helping with load balancing.

View attachment 402196 View attachment 402199

Good post Triple Jim! I also picked up current xfmrs & meter from that Ebay seller - was a little concerned with him being in Asia but he had good feedback and the items eventually came

I purchased the digital meters to go with the transformers and picked up a new electrical enclosure that my company was throwing out. It's about 8X6X4 inches & I am configuring it to go on top of the electrical connection box of my 003 - I have it currently permanently hooked up & piped with pvc, the last couple of feet are plastic flex pipe. I think I like your install idea better tho - it appears to be near your breaker box.

 

[Triple Jim]

Yes, it's inside my house at the box. Installing the meters at the generator has its advantages too, especially if the unit will be mobile. I look forward to photos of your setup.

Isn't it great when good stuff goes to the dumpster?

 

[Triple Jim]

My MEP-003A's hour meter quit. Rather than buy a replacement 2-7/8" round type, I got a more commonly available and cheaper rectangular one from eBay for $14.95 delivered. Then I drew an adapter and my son used his new 3-D printer to make it for me.

 

[storeman]

Triple Jim

Good looking job on the hour meter.
Jerry

 

[Jimc]

That must be awesome having a 3d printer on hand to just make whatever you want. A couple years ago they were priced at 35-500k. I bet they have come down since then. Haven't looked in awhile

 

[Triple Jim]

Thanks Jerry.

Jim, the printer is really neat. There are different types. This is an $800 MakerGear Prusa Mendel kit. It extrudes plastic from a nozzle and the X,Y, and Z motors drive it around to build up the part. The laser imaging type that harden liquid resin do much higher resolution are getting cheaper. Formlabs is taking pre-orders for a low-end version at $3,299. Ten years from now they'll be $100 at Walmart.

 

[Jimc]

Omg $800!! I need to look into one then for sure. I went to sema 3 years ago when they were just being developed and a tiny one of the type that your son has that would do only a 6" square area was $35k and that was the cheapest I could find. Melted and printed different plastic that come in a plastic spool. Looked like weed wackier line. Awesome!!


Im done hijacking!

 

[SurfinElvis]

I built a wood frame shed around my mep004. Poured a footer and built a block foundation under the planned location for the genset's skids. 2x12 floor joists, 12" centers. Overkill? Sure. Increased expense versus increased worry, I'll take the minimal expense. Shed is only 10x14.
I removed the day tank, doors, radiator shutters, clevises and exhaust. Eliminated all of the fuel components upstream of the IP and installed a mechanical lift pump. I had a twenty gallon diesel tank fabricated and installed it on top of the unit. I also installed a 55 gallon barrel for waste vegetable oil on its side in a wooden cradle on top of the unit. The two tanks are fed through two three-way manual marine fuel selector valves, one for inlet fuel and one for return fuel. WVO is fed through a 16-plate heat exchanger which transfers heat from the bypass on the engine head (next to the thermostat housing). Start up on diesel, let the unit get up to operating temp and manually switch to WVO. Then close the circuit breaker, throw the disconnect on the side of the house and I am completely disconnected from grid. I scored a Maxim silencer from a friend, routed the exhaust through a custom wall thimble and wrapped the exhaust pipe inside the shed with header wrap to reduce radiant heat.
I removed all of the fuel filtering and oil filtering components and used spin-on filters and housings for oil and fuel. I have two fuel filters, one for wvo and one for diesel. I installed a cold-air intake using pvc pipe to pull outside air, but need to rework that since the intake is ridiculously loud. Hopefully the recommendation of a stock pickup truck air box will help. Currently running a K+N style conical filter...really loud!
WVO filtration system is in the same shed, so I fill the barrel with the same pump that I use to transfer oil during the filtration process. Since I use very little diesel (1/4 - 1/2 gallon for warm-up and shut-down), I just buy road diesel at the gas station and transfer it to my aluminum tank with a plastic siphon pump.
Followed sewerzuk's process for single phase conversion and ran a test on 1/20 for three hours, powering the whole house on free WVO!
Added bonus - the neighborhood smelled really tasty!
I installed a strip of 1/2" rubber gym flooring under each skid and nailed 2x4's around the skids in case it wanted to "walk" while running. Vibration in the shed is minimal. Nothing fell off the shelves during the 3-hour test.

 

[storeman]

Probably doesn't even scare the horses....Pictures?

 

[SurfinElvis]

Not the best. Will post more.