Can't Get One Drum Off

[burbn10]

Guess what I found.

I purchased a N.O.S. axle from Builder 77 about 5 days before he was called home to help wathc over the rest of us.
I installed the axle but used my existing brake drums as I did not feel like cleaning the red finish off that day while I was in such a hurry.
Guess where the slot is (are), not in the backing plate but in the drum.
Here is a picture of the slot outlined in dust.
I also checked my O'Reilly's replacement drums and the also have the slots as well.
Punch this little sucker out with a 1/4 punch and you have your access hole (slot) for backing off that little wheel.
You need two long slender tools and a light to back of the adjustment wheel.

Jimm1009

That's crazy! Never seen that before. I learned something today! All my 1/2 tons always had the backing plate windows. Glad the mystery is hopefully solved.

 

[justinwregier]

Guess what I found.

I purchased a N.O.S. axle from Builder 77 about 5 days before he was called home to help wathc over the rest of us.
I installed the axle but used my existing brake drums as I did not feel like cleaning the red finish off that day while I was in such a hurry.
Guess where the slot is (are), not in the backing plate but in the drum.
Here is a picture of the slot outlined in dust.
I also checked my O'Reilly's replacement drums and the also have the slots as well.
Punch this little sucker out with a 1/4 punch and you have your access hole (slot) for backing off that little wheel.
You need two long slender tools and a light to back of the adjustment wheel.

Jimm1009

In going back to your picture of the drum, I think that I see the plug at your 7 o'clock position but
You should be able to find it pretty fast with a small steel brush or some sandpaper.

Thats the slot! I beat that crap out of that with a punch and sledge to no avail when I had my drum stuck... eventually all the hitting both punch and side of the drum just freed the drum. No steps like you mention, just dumb luck for me.

Also surplus or retail auto parts stores will carry components for the CUCV, not all are listed but K5's are a good place to start and GM did make civy diesels too.

 

[DXTAC]

jimm1099 - YOU ARE DA MAN!! It lasted about 3 seconds with the impact chisel and another 20 seconds before it was off!! Maybe I need to go re-school that mechanic??? LOL

Thanks

 

[jimm1009]

Derek,

I think that I heard you shout from here.

Glad it worked out for you. Those drums can be turned some in cases you are inclined to save it.
Obviously some scarring can not be removed but worth a shot.

They (the shop) will measure it before and after turning if you go that route.

Was it really the shoes getting caught as you thought?

jimm1009

 

[akonitony]

ROFL... sorry guys, but this thread reminds me of the lightbulb joke. How many members does it take to change a brake drum???
I just found this thread a few seconds ago, and had found the window in the drum last year when I had a similar problem stripping down an M1009. It took me about a half hour to realize hey, if day diint put da hole here... maybe day put it in somwhare else, duuhhhh... Don't feel bad DXTAC, and don't be too hard on that mechanic, brakes be a tricky thing sometimes. You ought to see me out here doing the front bearings on my D60 after taking it apart 3 months ago. EVERYTHING has to be at least twice before I get it right. I hate grease BTW.
Burbn10, everytime I see your Avatar, it gives me strength to keep on keepin' on. It's been a long haul, but I think I am seeing a light at the end of the tunnel. 'Course I also hear a train whistle...

 

[DXTAC]

Well “The Hulk” is up and running again!! I replaced the master cylinder and wheel cylinders and everything went well! Now need to eventually order the DS emergency brake cable, it was locked up and kinked.

Here are the PN's from Napa if anyone is interested:
MC: 39308 - $43.00 (I went with a new one)
WC's: 37048 - $6.99 each (Made in CHINA WTF?!?!?!?)
Brake shoe hardware kit: 2237 - $8.00
Brake shoes: TS-473 - $19.00
DOT 5 brake fluid: 45-032 - $26.99 each (OUCH – I needed about 1.25 quarts)

Saturn Surplus
Drums: $38.50 each and $29.00 shipping - $106.00 total (saved about $30.00 over Napa)

While I was waiting for the drums to arrive I dove in and painted the door panels and dash. I saved some money and used some 100MPH tape to cover the cracks, then hit them with a rattle can. I cleaned them well and used a paint made for plastic. It's hillbilly, but like I said I saved some $$$. I also installed the tailgate window seals and door seals as well. The tailgate window channel was on backorder and door channel is good enough for now. I just wanted to keep the water out of the doors and tailgate. I bought the seals from JCWhitney and they fit perfect.

Door hinge pins, PS nader pin, hitch and a CB are next. The wiring looks like it may be fun – NOT!

Thanks to everyone for your input!!

 

[mtjbrown]

Did you consider going to regular brake fluid instead of using the $27 can?? Just wondered cause I am going to when I change out any brake components, that is RIDICULOUS!!!

 

[DXTAC]

I've been reading older posts and bad things can happen when you mix the two types of fluid. Gelling is the number one concern. As you can see from my post I am a bit frugal but don't want to want to cause any potential problems. Brakes are a fairly important and my family is going to be riding in this, so I spared no expense on the fluid.

I suppose I could have brought the truck in and had the system flushed under pressure and saved the money on fluid but then I would have paid for the flush. It's a double edged sword. I did a manual bleed and had no issues.

 

[burbn10]

I've been reading older posts and bad things can happen when you mix the two types of fluid. Gelling is the number one concern. As you can see from my post I am a bit frugal but don't want to want to cause any potential problems. Brakes are a fairly important and my family is going to be riding in this, so I spared no expense on the fluid.

I suppose I could have brought the truck in and had the system flushed under pressure and saved the money on fluid but then I would have paid for the flush. It's a double edged sword. I did a manual bleed and had no issues.

I agree. My truck had nasty brake issues when I first picked it up and mixed DOT3 and DOT5 were the cause. If you put the two in a jar, it separates like oil and water. Changed it all to DOT5 and had no issue since.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Surplus BFS is around $30 a gallon. I keep several in stock at al times.

 

[mtjbrown]

I've been reading older posts and bad things can happen when you mix the two types of fluid. Gelling is the number one concern. As you can see from my post I am a bit frugal but don't want to want to cause any potential problems. Brakes are a fairly important and my family is going to be riding in this, so I spared no expense on the fluid.

I suppose I could have brought the truck in and had the system flushed under pressure and saved the money on fluid but then I would have paid for the flush. It's a double edged sword. I did a manual bleed and had no issues.

Just to clarify, i am not going to mix the two, going to flush mine and fill with dot3. Its easy to clear the old out, just open all the bleeders and flush with clean new fluid after the old is gone.
Mark

 

[NMC_EXP]

Another M1009 w/o adjustment slot in backing plate.

Guess what I found.

I installed the axle but used my existing brake drums as I did not feel like cleaning the red finish off that day while I was in such a hurry.
Guess where the slot is (are), not in the backing plate but in the drum.
Here is a picture of the slot outlined in dust.
I also checked my O'Reilly's replacement drums and the also have the slots as well.
Punch this little sucker out with a 1/4 punch and you have your access hole (slot) for backing off that little wheel.

Jimm1009

Today I'm fighting a rear drum on a 1986 M1009 and ran across this thread.

The parking brake on the left side malfunctioned and is dragging. When I tried to pull the brake drum found there was no slot in backing plate to back off the adjuster. Wire brushed and sanded it down to bare metal - still no knock-out slot. So I'm in the same boat as the original poster.

TM said the slot may be in the drum. Wire brushed the drums - bad news - no knock-out slot there either.

These drums are aftermarket units from Advance Auto p/n 8985, brand name Duralast.

Both of these Duralast drums have big balance weights welded to them. It is possible the knock-outs are behind the weights.

Moral of this story is: (1) verify you have the adjustment slot or knock-out in the backing plate before buying aftermarket drums, (2) if no slot in the backing plate be sure the replacement drums have the knock-out plate.

These drums were installed by a Chevy dealer soon after I bought the truck. Had to have it towed in due to a brake problem. Told the dealer to overhaul the brakes while he had the truck.

Looks like the next step is to buy two new drums with the knock-outs, brake shoes and spring kits. Then brute force the left drum off and replace shoes, springs, etc on both sides.

Regards

Jim

 

[o1951]

Duralast is Autozone house brand - usually comes with lifetime warranty.
My experience on civ brakes - on backing plate, you will see 2 circles smaller than a dime. They are the heads of the pins that hold the springs that hold brake shoes against the backing plate.

Break them, - cheap and I replace on brake job anyhow- and the only thing holding the shoes are the wheel cylinder yokes and the adjuster. Few whacks on drum with 2x4, and it should come off.

You can grind the heads down with a die grinder, or sometimes pry up on the heads against the spring and slip side cutters or a small bolt cutter in and clip the stems.

Suggest you cut brake adjuster slots in backing plate. Get 2 rubber backing plate plugs, and use them to size slots in plate. Position slots so adjuster tool has easy access to star wheel over it's entire adjustment range.

 

[NMC_EXP]

Duralast is Autozone house brand - usually comes with lifetime warranty.
My experience on civ brakes - on backing plate, you will see 2 circles smaller than a dime. They are the heads of the pins that hold the springs that hold brake shoes against the backing plate.

Break them, - cheap and I replace on brake job anyhow- and the only thing holding the shoes are the wheel cylinder yokes and the adjuster. Few whacks on drum with 2x4, and it should come off.

You can grind the heads down with a die grinder, or sometimes pry up on the heads against the spring and slip side cutters or a small bolt cutter in and clip the stems.

Suggest you cut brake adjuster slots in backing plate. Get 2 rubber backing plate plugs, and use them to size slots in plate. Position slots so adjuster tool has easy access to star wheel over it's entire adjustment range.

Good info. The pins you're talking about come with a brake hardware kit?

Thanks

Jim

 

[toomuchjosh]

I just wanted to add that I ran into the same problem as the OP. Backing plate had no cutout for the star adjuster. I had to punch out the metal tab on the drum to access the innards of my drum brakes. (looked more like a rock tumbler than anything ). Much of the brake hardware/star adjuster was loose on the bottom of the drum. In addition to that my drums had a lip on them that was holding them in place. Anyhow.... Just wanted to say THANKS! to everyone involved in this thread. It was a huge help!

 

[toomuchjosh]

Good info. The pins you're talking about come with a brake hardware kit?

Thanks

Jim

Yes they do.