Banks turbo and AC install

[Nate475]

Has anyone done a Banks Turbo charger conversion along with an aftermarket AC kit installation?

My plan is to convert the truck over to a 12 volt system with a single alternator, and install both the Banks Turbo and one of those aftermarket AC kits. I need to know what alternator I should remove, (most likely the passenger side)? From what I've seen the turbo air cleaner box and the AC compressor both mount on the passenger side, do they both fit together, or is there a modification necessary?

FYI, I'm restoring a 1986 M1009 CUCV.

P.S. Once the 12 volt conversion is complete is the doghead starter relay conversion still necessary, or will the stock relay do the job now that the voltage has been cut in half?

 

[Ken_86gt]

Once the 12 volt conversion is complete is the doghead starter relay conversion still necessary, or will the stock relay do the job now that the voltage has been cut in half?

The starter relay conversion is not necessary- it is recommended to help prevent a runaway starter due to a stuck relay. This happens because the existing relay is not suited for this application. The voltage does not change the need to consider replacement or some other modification to prevent a run away starter.

 

[Warthog]

If you are converting to 12v, are you using the Roscommon Equipment Center method?


http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf

Contact Cleptomaniac. He has a M1009 with a turbo that has A/C, turbo and is still 24v

 

[Nate475]

If you are converting to 12v, are you using the Roscommon Equipment Center method?


http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf

Contact Cleptomaniac. He has a M1009 that has A/C, turbo and is still 24v

Yes, I have a copy of that file and I'm going with the version where you eliminate one alternator and keep both of the batteries. I want to increase the reliability of my truck which has already started giving me problems with the charging system. Plus I want to add 12V accessories to the rear power terminals which are currently 24V and totally useless to me.

Thanks for the tip, I'll try and get in touch with cleptomaniac.

 

[Cleptomaniac]

I'll chime in. I would think you would need to loose the drivers side. But am not 100% on that. The ac I have the compressor is on the drivers side.

 

[Stonepicker1]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/6...florida-rebuild.html?highlight=florida+dually

I did a Banks on my dually. take a look.

 

[M1009 Fiend]

yes, i have a copy of that file and i'm going with the version where you eliminate one alternator and keep both of the batteries. I want to increase the reliability of my truck which has already started giving me problems with the charging system. Plus i want to add 12v accessories to the rear power terminals which are currently 24v and totally useless to me.

Thanks for the tip, i'll try and get in touch with cleptomaniac.

just fwi, i converted the rear terminals to 12vt by removing the hot lead and connecting it to the front battery.

 

[Nate475]

I'll chime in. I would think you would need to loose the drivers side. But am not 100% on that. The ac I have the compressor is on the drivers side.

The 12 volt conversion requires that you keep the passenger side alternator, so that's good news. What brand of aftermarket AC kit did you install, or was it a pieced together factory version?

 

[Nate475]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/6...florida-rebuild.html?highlight=florida+dually

I did a Banks on my dually. take a look.

Nice build and the new motor looks great. And thank you for the link. I downloaded several pictures of the Banks system for reference purposes. As long as I can find an aftermarket AC system with a drivers side mounted compressor I'll be fine. I need to make some calls and see what's available.

 

[Nate475]

The starter relay conversion is not necessary- it is recommended to help prevent a runaway starter due to a stuck relay. This happens because the existing relay is not suited for this application. The voltage does not change the need to consider replacement or some other modification to prevent a run away starter.

Do you know if the starter relay was a problem in civilian trucks? I read one of my manuals that Chevy corrected the starter relay problem in the 1986 CUCVs. Then again the popular piece of advice around here is to replace it anyway.

 

[Cleptomaniac]

The A/C I have was installed by the dept of Agg when they had it.

 

[jeryshery]

Before I did my 12 volt conversion I had my starter stick open for a solid minute PITA but that only happened once and I haven't done the doghead mod.

 

[Crash_AF]

The starter relay was not necessary on civilian trucks because it is only there to isolate the 24V solenoid from the 12V system. You can bypass it completely on a 12V conversion by connecting the lead from the key to the lead to the starter (Purple and purple/white IIRC)

 

[twomorestrokes]

I read one of my manuals that Chevy corrected the starter relay problem in the 1986 CUCVs.

Not as far as I know. My relay was brand new when I got my truck and was left hanging by the harness under the dash in case it sticks it can be unplugged quickly. The rest of my 24v system still works great so I don't see an issue with keeping it. When something needs attention, I'll fix it.

 

[BlazerAdventure]

Why does it matter which alternator you use for the 12V conversion? Aren't both 12 Volt alternators and if you bring everything back to 12V Common Ground, then either alternator will work, you just have to make sure it has the right ground. When we did the conversion, we used the driver side alternator, Changed the ground for the passenger side from isolated to common and can connect it anytime the other alternator has a problem.

 

[Nate475]

Both alternators are basically the same accept for the isolated ground on the passenger side. You can use either one because the isolated ground isn't needed. I was referring to the side it was mounted on instead of which alternator to use. Right now I've got a short between my drivers side alternator and my indicator light, so my drivers side alternator isn't charging my front battery. So to correct that and to get my truck ready for the AC install I'm going to do the 12 volt conversion this coming week, weather permitting. I'm going to take pictures and post some notes about it once I'm finished. The conversion requires a rear starter bracket from an 1989 and later 12 volt gear reduction starter. I'm going to post pics of both brackets, the gm part numbers, and the some pics and notes on the battery cables and other wires needed. I'm going to post the cable lengths and other info about the wiring to make it easier to do.