Clutch disc, Throw out bearings and Transmissions???

[s4mm4n16]

I have been trying to figure out where my drive train noises are coming from so hopefully someone can help. I have pulled out the trany again and I can find nothing wrong with my disc and pressure plate. Both are new. A couple of guys are saying the throw out bearing is bad and I thought the one I put in was new also, but now I am wondering. 3 questions... 1) Should there be any slop in the bearing, side to side or in and out and are they available in any parts stores. 2) This clutch disc does not have the springs around the splined center hub and do the springs absorb bounce or torque againt the drive train. Also is this a proper disc (riveted solid)? 3) While I have the trany out, is there any quick field check methods I can use to check if the trany is bad or worn (bearings and such)? Thanks, Bob

 

[onegmjack]

What does the fluid look like in your transmission?Can you press down on the throw out bearing and hear any noise or feel and roughness?f you have trans problem bad bearing,most of the time the fluid will be dirty with a black,grayish color.Have you greased your throwout bearing.If the bearing is rough or noisey you may have a bad throw out bearing.

 

[glcaines]

We need more information. When does the noise occur? While driving? While idling in neutral? When the clutch is depressed and not driving? when the clutch is lightly depressed while not driving?

If the noise occurs while driving only, check the short drive shaft between the transmission and transfer case. These bolts commonly come loose.

 

[s4mm4n16]

On the second page here in the forum, I have a thread titled "Noise in the drive train". In that I tried to describe the problem as best as possible. I didn't get a bunch of responses, so I tried to ask my questions in a different way with this thread. Also, I am new at this site and I am having problems with it. Got discouraged last year, but thought I would give it another try. I guess I will figure it out. Thanks Bob

 

[onegmjack]

Like gl said need more information.You said you had it apart.What I said is what I would look at if everything was laying in front of me.On the throw out bearing should be smooth when you hold down and turn,any roughness or dry sound mean it is bad even if it is new.I once got one with no grease in it,sent it back.

 

[s4mm4n16]

Here is the explanation I wrote before in another thread.
Also, thanks to all for trying to help. I've put clutches in the M35 before, so I don't think I have the disc in backwards and all the clutch parts are new. I'm driving forward, or in reverse, about 100 ft. on hard pan road, using 1st and 2nd. In between shifts, with the pedal in, coasting, is when the clanking sound happens. The tunnel is off so I can see the short shaft. Also I feel a bouncing forwards or backwards and see it reflected in the short shaft rotation. I have checked the short shaft with the trany in neutral and the transfer case in gear and there appears to be minimal slop and the u joints appear tight. There in no noise idling in neutral or with the pedal down in neutral. The other shafts I have not checked yet and the front shaft is not turning with because of the hubs. The trany looked like new when installed. Also I do not remember the noise before. I have locking hubs on the front and I tried it with them free and locked. The e brake was sticking, but is free now. No matter what I do, it's the same story. 2 questions, 1) Could it be pedal adjustment? 2) The disc I put in, does not have the springs around the splined hub, it's riveted. Are they like shock absorbers? That's about it. Thanks!

 

[onegmjack]

I done mine,can't remember if it had springs in the clutch disk.Did your old one have them?On the pedal adjustment,I like my clutch to release at the floor.Drove it to two rally and is fine.I push the throwout bearing againist the pressure plate,then adjust rod to fit in the pedal.Thats the way I have done for years.

 

[s4mm4n16]

That is how I have adjusted the clutch linkage before. My best guess is the E brake or the disc. I don't think it is the throw out beaing. Waiting on a new disc to try that.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yeah, I was wondering if it was the clutch not having springs in there. Please post up and let us know the outcome of the 2nd clutch.

 

[nk14zp]

Hows the pilot bearing?

 

[m-35tom]

so i think you are saying the trans is out. well, take the clutch out and see if it is backwards. also sounds like you must have the short driveshaft to the transfer out. feel the joints to see how they are, smooth tight, no play in anything. have you checked the joints in the rear main driveshaft? bad joints there could be reflected into the e-brake. having said that, it still remains that the best time to diagnoise any problem is while it is still togeather.

 

[s4mm4n16]

I'm kind of on hold right now, but I will try to update. One of the first to respond to my inquiry asked what the lube looked like and I can't answer that, because I didn't pay attention to it, but I will the next time. I think the bearing is OK but I'm ordering another new one to put that to bed. This is the first pressure plate I have seen with out the springs too, but after a lot of thinking it's not the problem because the problem is in between gears during the shifts. I have adjusted my linkage the same way and the clutch lever arm center hole is the 3 1/4" away from the transmission flange. I'm tempted to put the old disc back in, haven't decided yet. Pilot bearing was tight, but new after today, why take the chance. Nothing was in backwards and today I checked u joints and there is minimal slop. I have my doubts about their causing the problem now and I did not have the noise before the project started. I also went back to the e brake and I suspect this maybe the problem. Loosened everything up (cable) and the dog leg is hanging up and not fully releasing. Could be rust or a weak spring. Have to look at that more. The truck did sit for awhile and in Florida, everything is wet. As I said, I'm hold for now waiting on parts and going out of town. Hope to get back to you with good results. Thanks to ALL.

 

[s4mm4n16]

Well, i finally got the time to figure out the problem and it was the clutch disc. Tried another with the springs and it works great. Reduced the noise almost completely. Just thought I would close this chapter/thread. Thanks for all the input.

 

[onegmjack]

Thats great sometime you just have to check and recheck.

 

[mark salanco]

I replaced my transmission and clutch this past weekend. When I pulled it apart, there was no pilot bushing in the flywheel.. Very *strange find indeed .. You just *ever know what somebody else has done to these trucks.

 

[s4mm4n16]

10/4, I was extremely happy to NOT hear the noise after having the trany out 4 times. Now i'm going forward with installing a winch. Found out that it did not have the drum seal on one side. Got that appart now. It's amazing that a GOV. rebuild would have had this part missing. Thanks for everyones help!!!

 

[mark salanco]

I didn't want to start a new thread, so I will add to this one.
I just had a new clutch,throw out bearing, pilot bushing * Pressure plate and a rebuilt transmission put in my truck. All the parts came from memphis Equipment. The problem I'm having is the transmission is really hard to get into 2nd gear, sometimes I think I'm gonna break the shifting lever off. All the other gears are good and shift fine. Every once in a while it goes into second gear okay. Has anybody else had this problem ??
I believe the gear oil is valvoline , it's a synthetic gear oil that said it is GL-5 and MT-1 compatible.

 

[gringeltaube]

...... The problem I'm having is the transmission is really hard to get into 2nd gear, sometimes I think I'm gonna break the shifting lever off. All the other gears are good and shift fine. Every once in a while it goes into second gear okay.....

1) Its not the lube!
2) Don't force it!
3) Its been rebuilt, right? So what did ME say....?

If nothing else I would take the cover off and try to shift the 2nd/3rd collar by hand. (described here). Could be a defective syncro.
Also inspect the shift mechanism for signs of wear; bent interlock plate, loose shift fork/ set screw, etc..


G.

 

[mark salanco]

1) Its not the lube!
2) Don't force it!
3) Its been rebuilt, right? So what did ME say....?

If nothing else I would take the cover off and try to shift the 2nd/3rd collar by hand. (described here). Could be a defective syncro.
Also inspect the shift mechanism for signs of wear; bent interlock plate, loose shift fork/ set screw, etc..


G.

I will call Memphis Equipment and see what they say.
Thank you for your help.

 

[mark salanco]

I forgt to add this.. Yes, it is a rebuilt transmission from
M.E.. Kind of expensive too..lol