MEP 002A - fuel tank clean up?

[jjensen007]

I'm working on getting a new to me 002A up and running. The hour meter says 11 hours J hope its accurate. Look clean overall. I’m going over it wanted to start with fluids and filters. The fuel tank has a plugged drain valve and some nasty rusty looking fuel in it. Any recommendations on cleaning it. I was just planning on pulling the drain valve cleaning it and running a few gallons of clean fuel through it?

Thanks

 

[cucv1833]

I took mine off and pressure washed it. Then put alot of small nuts 7/16? maybe and other types of cleaners and shook it around for like 20 min. Then sprayed it out with Carb cleaner. Its not perfect but good enough I think.

 

[rosco]

Unless you take them off, you can't get them clean enough.

 

[DeucesWild11]

Mine looks like it came off the Titanic, I plan on taking it off and bringing it to a radiator shop that can acid wash it (or something like that) and re-line it like new. I heard it's only around $50.

 

[Keith_J]

Yes, hot tanking can remove most of the gunk. I ended up desoldering the tank boss and then removing the rivets to get full access to the inside. Phosphoric acid got the rest of the rust, with wire brush help.

The tank had several pin holes which required welding.

To desolder the cap boss/frame, heat it with a torch, then blow the solder off with compressed air. Then drill the rivets out, heat again and it will come right off.

The rivets are sealing copper pull-type. McMaster-Carr has them.

 

[rosco]

I would think that welding on the tank, would cause excessive distortion. Also those tanks are usually tin or zinc coated - the welding heat burns off too large an area. With pin holes on other MV tanks, I have had good luck just soldering them. At worst, I cut a small patch made from pieces of copper tubing, or pipe work well.

 

[JOateyNV]

Getting genset running

Before you do anything. Check that the engine turns over by hand. Not frozen. Put a 3/4 socket on the center nut at the front of the engine that holds on the fan. Should turn by hand both ways. I didn't do this to my first GL gem and spent a day changing fuilds and cleaning the fuel system, just to hear a loud tick. Engine was locked.

 

[steelypip]

I removed my tank, washed it with kerosene and clean gravel to get the oily sludge out. Then I sprayed engine degreaser on the bottom to get the rest out with the detergent/water rinse. After that, I had a damp tank. Left it sitting on its side in the garage for a week in summer and that dried it out. If I hadn't been able to get it dry I would have gone after it with the heat gun.

You will find some combination of dirt, biological sludge, water, and rust in there.

And concur with JOateyNV - you want to verify that the engine can be easily turned through by hand before trying starting it.

 

[Grega]

Do the job right. Start by taking the tank off, take off all the fittings and fuel level gauge and do a good steam cleaning. After cleaning, let dry and seal all openings except the fuel level hole, then add caswell tank sealer. Rotate the tank every few minutes for about an hour. Ths will leave a nice glass like coating inside the tank. Ive done 4 mep 002 tanks and really like the results. Replacement tanks are non existant so its important that you take care of your tank. My last Mep 002 I purchased had a replacement tank on it purchased 2 years ago for $750, but a year sitting with crud took its toll. Hear is a like to the Caswell site. If you like em on face book, you will get 25% off I think. Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer - Restoration Aids - Caswell Inc

 

[Triple Jim]

I had no idea about the discount, thanks. Caswell's phenolic epoxy sealer is definitely good stuff. Earlier today I posted about the guys on the Kawasaki triples boards using it on 40 year old tanks with excellent results compared to the alternative sealers.

 

[Cycletek]

Washed out the gas tank on my 71 Ranchero with Muriatic Acid (Pool Acid), neutralized it and rinsed it and put in fuel tank sealer made by Eastwood. The acid is mild and can be leaned out a bit by mixing it with water. After sealing up all the exits and sloshing it around, I would look inside with a flashlight and safety glasses. It made the inside look clean with a slight look of being galvanized......then I added the sealer and rolled it around till it coated everything, put gas in it in two days.......no problems

 

[jjensen007]

Cool thanks for all the info. I'll try to turn it over by hand first then I think the Caswell product looks like a good solution. I'll post up my findings on if it turns over

 

[jjensen007]

Finally got a little time to tinker. It turns over nice and easy. I got the drain valve un plugged and flushed some fresh fuel through it. It looks pretty clean and it’s not leaking J

 

[jjensen007]

Finally got a little time to tinker. It turns over nice and easy. I got the drain valve un plugged and flushed some fresh fuel through it. It looks pretty clean and it’s not leaking, now to replace the fuel filters J

 

[Keith_J]

I would think that welding on the tank, would cause excessive distortion. Also those tanks are usually tin or zinc coated - the welding heat burns off too large an area. With pin holes on other MV tanks, I have had good luck just soldering them. At worst, I cut a small patch made from pieces of copper tubing, or pipe work well.

I had no distortion from TIG welding the holes in my tank. Yes, some are terne or tin coated, my tank was solid rust on the bottom on the inside. I restored the coating on the outside using electrical solder (60/40 tin/lead) in the heat affected zone.

Of course the inside was POR coated. After more than a year, the coating is still perfect, seen through the clear, fresh diesel.

 

[jjensen007]

Hooo whooo finished flushing the fuel system and fired it up, after some smoke and sputtering it fired up Let it run for a few min to check the hz and volts 60 and 120.2

Shut it down and noticed a small fuel leak on the nut to the fuel strainer ... no to fix that check oil pressure and load test it