onegmjack
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Your truck looks Great,Fine job you have done.
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Thanks, I really appreciate that. It has been a lot of work but it sure is fun.really have to say, I am impressed with the work you have done! I would like to put a radio in mine also. Looks freakin sweet man!
Thank you greatly for the compliment! I'm enjoying your build thread as it unfolds. That truck of yours is mighty slick!the truck looks awesome! I need a sound system for my crew cab but know ZERO when it comes to running 12v stuff off a 24V system... would love to get some pointers from ya... PS... will you be in Athens for the GT vs UGA game? was planning on taking my truck down for the tail gate... maybe we could even park together but with RED and Black flags on my truck... GO DAWGS!!!
apache, I respect your opinion but for the installation of a simple stereo, CB, and DC accessory outlet, a $25-40 converter is the way to go. It is far less expensive, can be mounted nearly anywhere, no custom bracket needed, and can be done extremely quickly. A 12v alternator in this case would be like using a machete to peel a potato, of course it could be done but wouldn't a regular knife make more sense? I mean, just think of how the parts lists compare. My option has one part that can be delivered in two days for less than $40. How many parts does the a 12v alternator option have and what are the costs? I'm unsure of the costs but let me guess:there's no trouble in installing a 12V alternator. this system has a few advantages over a converter.
specially with a multifuel, installation is a snap.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-...g/56451-2nd-alternator-12v-7.html#post1174226
I made the two switch panels (one on each side of the steering wheel) out of 2" angle aluminum. Very easy to work with and it can found easily at you local home improvement store. After I cut the brackets to length, I just determined the number of switches I needed and then drilled equally spaced holes. I actually accounted for 3 extra switch holes (2 for lights on the left switch panel and 1 for a windshield washer motor on the right switch panel) for additional switches I plan on adding in the future. For now I have dummy/dead switches in those positions because I don't like the way empty holes look. I also had to account for the accessory outlets, heat knob, defrost knob, and front axle switch). Then just sanded and spray painted it with several coats and installed it.Amazing thread and workmanship. I'd love to know more about how you made your switch panel under the dash? Thanks, Jim
Yeah, you do need to be mindful of battery drain under my setup. I actually use two of the 720 watt converters and I have ran the stereo, amp, and PA's all night by accident once and the truck still fired right up in the morning. Having the security of the 3rd, independent, battery is attractive but I usually don't run the electronics for more than a few hours between cranks so draining the batteries hasn't been an issue.how do you know how i peel my potatoes?????
i respect your opinion, too.
the biggest advantage is, you can drain your 3rd battery and your truck will start.
with the availability of 12v usually come more and more uses....cooler, cell loader, CB, Radio and so on.
but thats the good thing on this site: different opinions but (most ) no controversy.
my way is good for me and your way is good for you.
With the off road lights i can only agree. Worst thing is to connect them in row....
Just read through this thread. You do some great work! Thank you for the inspiration and ideas.
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