Deuce heater box install

[Dieselking22]

I am installing a heater box on a deuce that has never had one before, I am going to mount everything in the cab. I thought by doing that it will be more efficient. I have a couple questions with pictures of the questions because i cant explain my self very good.

1. On the electric part of it... I cant find a TM on where to hook the wires to can anyone help me out. I dont want to just rig it up

2. On the top heater hose the one nearest to the thermostat i cant get the plug out is there any other places i can put the top heater hose? Ive tried PB blaster to try to get the plug out and nothing works for me.

 

[steelandcanvas]

The correct way would be to install another circuit breaker next to the one already on the firewall. I just jumped input power from one breaker to another. I used all Mil-Spec wire and connectors for the "done in the Motorpool" look.

 

[Boatcarpenter]

I hope you can blow this up enough to see it clearly.

BC
I have no idea why the picture came first and then the text. Not the way I intended it.

 

[m16ty]

Corey, the circuit breaker is in the first pic. You have the breaker, low/high/off switch, and resistor.

The breaker was mounted on the firewall in the engine compartment as Jonathan posted. The resistor was also mounted on the firewall but on the inside of the cab. The other loose wire goes to the blower motor.

 

[Dieselking22]

Johnathan and m16ty I got it now it makes sense... feel kind of dumb that i asked that question. But when i got it from you m16ty i was a little confused.

Thank you boat carpenter for the picture. But i still dont think i can get that plug out i may try a oxygen acetylene torch in a couple of days i bet that would break it free!

does anyone else that has posted have the heater core mounted in the cab?

 

[eagle4g63]

On the water neck did you try the plug just under it(you show 2 plugs not in use) I used that one on mine and it worked just fine.

 

[Cleveland Iron]

When all else fails, look at the wire numbers on the deuce schematic. ( Available in the TM section ) Mount the speed control resister some place where it can get hot and not melt anything. You should be good.

I considered mounting the core inside too but I just decided chop the box down and butt it against the firewall. As for the knockout... Hammer failed. Sledge hammer failed. Five wacks with a pick though...

 

[steelandcanvas]

Johnathan and m16ty I got it now it makes sense... feel kind of dumb that i asked that question. But when i got it from you m16ty i was a little confused. Does anyone else that has posted have the heater core mounted in the cab?

Don't feel dumb, I'm glad to help, these heater questions get asked alot. I thought about mounting my core inside, but it doesn't bother me too much on the fender....yet. Good catch Ty, I didn't see the breaker in the first photo. A splitter and a jumper and he'll be uptown electrically. Erik's or Saturn have those components.
http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/rushcoq10ms.html
http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/rushcoq10ms1.html
http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/rushycoms.html
http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/prwiformive1.html

 

[machinist75]

I just bought the distribution box off of a 5 ton so the vents and the controls are facing the right way when i mount it in the cab from the gentleman in Selina Kansas his handle escapes me. Very good price.

 

[Cleveland Iron]

I just bought the distribution box off of a 5 ton so the vents and the controls are facing the right way when i mount it in the cab from the gentleman in Selina Kansas his handle escapes me. Very good price.

Chop the core box down by all means, most of it is just housing empty air! Just be sure to leave room to allow the air inside the to pass through the entire heater core. Heck, you might even be able to attach the core box directly to the diverter and not even play with that part of the ducting. Just make sure that 1) You have some protection for the heater hoses as they pass through the firewall - there is enough vibration where I'd worry about the firewall wearing through the hoses - and 2) You have enough room for the hoses to bend around and not kink. The grill I put over the external air intake was a section of scrap leaf guard. Might not hurt to put someting over the fan intake even in the cab.

Good luck!

 

[Boatcarpenter]

There are some pictures in this thread.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?3209-M35A3-M36A3-In-cab-heater&highlight=
BC

 

[m16ty]

There are two main reasons I don't have a heater in my deuce. 1) If mounted in the stock location it makes it a pain to service that side of the engine and most of the service items are on that side (fuel filters, oil filters, IP). 2) I haven't took the time to make up a in-cab install.

 

[Dieselking22]

Everyone is a great help around here! Thank you all!

Hey Johnathan Im going to order me some of the electrical stuff! I guess you guys do not recommend using butt or suitcase connectors? I mainly go with soldering joints with heat shrink

 

[Dieselking22]

Which one is better? What is everyone's opinion?

1. Mounting the core in the engine bay?

Or

2. Mounting the core in the cab?

 

[steelandcanvas]

Some folks think putting the core in the cab works better than on the fender. Mine is on the fender and will drive you out of the cab, once the motor gets to temp. I don't find it any more difficult to PM or service the engine, but I have spin-on oil filters. I think location is just a matter of preference.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Hey Johnathan Im going to order me some of the electrical stuff! I guess you guys do not recommend using butt or suitcase connectors? I mainly go with soldering joints with heat shrink

If you want to keep it looking original, use the Mil-Spec stuff. I have never been a fan of "suitcase" connectors on vehicles. They seem to cause more problems than you are trying to solve by using them. Butt splices are just OK, better when you heat shrink over them. Solder and shrink is probably the best, if you don't go the Mil-Spec route. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Cleveland Iron]

Obviously I'm biased. What I did worked for me.

I chopped the box with a cheap saber saw. Unless you are planning to mount an air conditioning coil in there too I see no reason for such a large box. I had to swap the fan direction to keep the air intake outboard. Had to butt the box on the inboard edge of the pass through to make room for the bend in the fresh air duct / fan connection so it would fit between the fsn and the hood. Everything in the cab came out mil-spec. Under the hood, the only thing in the way for service is the air duct and that is no big deal.

I refuse to tell you what to do, I can only suggest. You have your own thoughts on what you want. Follow them. If you mount it in the cab just make sure your rigging works for both the driver and passenger. That deuce is your baby, just be sure to keep giving her the right amount of TLC as you help her grow.

 

[Dieselking22]

Ive made my decision im going to mount it in the cab, Ill probably start today but finish next week But ill put up some pictures of the outcome.

Thanks for everyone who helped!

 

[Dieselking22]

what were yall using for the heating duct? i went to lowes and the dryer exhaust is the only stuff i found, And it is only aluminum i cant find the plastic stuff anymore. Advance auto has some plastic intake piping but its $20 for 4 foot

 

[steelandcanvas]

what were yall using for the heating duct? i went to lowes and the dryer exhaust is the only stuff i found, And it is only aluminum i cant find the plastic stuff anymore. Advance auto has some plastic intake piping but its $20 for 4 foot

A little search and I found Erik's has what you need.
Ouch, I didn't see the price of this stuff! $2.00 an inch!

http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/heairindufor.html