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5 ton just clicks??

M35A2-AZ

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I got a used one from 91w350 here on SS.
PM him and see if he has any. He pulls them out of trucks he cuts up.
 

swbradley1

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I watched Ferro get out of his truck and whack on his box all while stranded in the middle of the river at Haspin last year. If my 813 ever starts acting up I'm yanking the box.
 

MAJ MALFUNCTION

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We have a 900 series that we took delivery of (recently) that won't start. Batteries have been charged and tested as good. When I try to start it, I can hear the solenoid in the PCB "click", but don't get anything else. I'm thinking my starter needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
 

MyothersanM1

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I replaced mine a while back in my 818. Prior to that, it cut out on me and I whacked it with a Crescent wrench. It wised up real quick.
 

jdknech

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As much problems the PCBs cause WHY not get rid of it, really in the 900s, all it is is a NEUTALE SAFETY SWITCH and ENGINE ROTATION NO START SWITCH (oil pressure switch), along with a master power on/off solenoid, I am sure you can here the engine running and know better to start in gear, if you want a neutral safety switch, that would not be hard to rig, what ever is done it could be a couple of solenoids mounted on the firewall where it is easy to get to to fix with EASY to get parts.
some others of us would like this info as well... could this be started in a new thread? (i know, I'm needy.. lol)
 

commandojeff

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We have a 900 series that we took delivery of (recently) that won't start. Batteries have been charged and tested as good. When I try to start it, I can hear the solenoid in the PCB "click", but don't get anything else. I'm thinking my starter needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
If your gauges don't flip up then your box is shot. I heard my box click even though it was not working right.
 

Tow4

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And I always thought Ferro's signature line about hitting it with a hammer was a joke....
 

dragonman

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Mason city, Iowa
We have a 900 series that we took delivery of (recently) that won't start. Batteries have been charged and tested as good. When I try to start it, I can hear the solenoid in the PCB "click", but don't get anything else. I'm thinking my starter needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

Mine does the same thing (M923A2) I keep turning the switch and it eventually kicks the starter in bad, switch maybe?
 

juanprado

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That is the classic symptom of a bad starter. When the bad windings or brushes are making contact no go but when you bump it to a good spot, then all is good. Check the amp draw of the starter when it won't start, it is probably real high.

You can jump the starter at the solenoid to temp bypass to test components.
 

dragonman

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Location
Mason city, Iowa
We have a 900 series that we took delivery of (recently) that won't start. Batteries have been charged and tested as good. When I try to start it, I can hear the solenoid in the PCB "click", but don't get anything else. I'm thinking my starter needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
My M923A2 did the same thing batteries charged and tested good. I can hear the pcb click to. Today I didnt hear any thing gauges didnt move no lights pcb didnt click, jumped starter started right up. Still no lights or gauges then all of a sudden gauges jumped up shut it off and tried to restart, nothing. Jumped starter again started right up, ABS light stays on now.
Time for a new PCB.
 

datadawg

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The needles on the gauges don't move at all when I flip the power on - PCB must be toast.

Thanks very much for the help Jeff!!!
Bump...
My truck wasn't starting after sitting 2 days. I left my turn signal in Left position and first thought this drained the batteries. Which I thought was odd, since main battery switch was off and I figured this would disconnect all power and prevent draining. Past 3 days I've been charging batteries (one at a time using a 12V Sears charger), but now, thanks to this thread, I realize it may not be batteries at all.
Especially since I just tested 4th battery, which I haven't yet charged, and it shows 13V -- full charge.
When the truck wasn't starting, none of the gauges were moving and I wasn't hearing anything either (no clicks). So my questions - assuming it's the PCB box,
1) how hard does one hit PCB box?
2) Any particular place?
3) Posts say to hit it while someone is cranking, if I'm alone, can I hit it and then get into cab and crank or does hitting/cranking have to be simultaneous?
4) If the truck starts does the PCB box problem go away b/c it's now "unstuck" inside, or is PCB always going to be a problem?
 

VA 5Ton

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I'm watching this thread with interest as I am having a similar intermittent power issue. Datadawg, were you able to start your truck after whacking the PCB?
 

datadawg

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Bucks County, PA
I'm watching this thread with interest as I am having a similar intermittent power issue. Datadawg, were you able to start your truck after whacking the PCB?
It did start after I reconnected the batteries. So I'm not sure if it was indeed a battery discharge issue or something else that cured itself or failed to not work the next time around. I only started/drove the truck a couple times since and starting was never a problem thereafter.
 
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