Transfer Case Problem?

[Shankem-Deep]

So this weekend I took a couple buddies out to have some 4-wheel fun in my M1028. After lots of 4-low fun I reversed through a deep hole of water, once I made it through I put it back in drive and something made a audible pop. All seemed fine so we took it out of 4-wheel and headed back home. On the way home I found another good steep bank off the side of the road to climb up. I locked the hubs back in and put it in 4-low. I started to climb the bank but only the rear wheels would spin, no 4x4. We gave up and went back to my house and tried a few more times and never could get it to re-engage the front axle. The transfer case seems too easy to shift into 4-hi and 4-low. I searched a few threads but nothing popped out at me. Do you guys have any suggestions on what to look for? Should I swap out the transfer case for a np241 or np205? I really want my truck back on the road ASAP! I never had an issue with NP208 until now. The truck is as it was originally minus the lift and tires. Thanks for any advice!

 

[max1008]

Maybe a broken shift fork?

 

[ProPower]

208s are a great t-case and will hold up to a severe beating,but the 241 is the stronger of the two. 241 has a 6 planetary reduction instead of 4 and has a oil pump! Passenger side drop 241s are really hard to find and cost 3 times what a 208 does so if you have one use it.The only problem is it has a lower 2.72 to 1 ratio! Be sure to run a synthetic trans fluid to ! Most people dont and this leads to many more breakdowns . I believe Amsoil Severe Gear is the best by far!

 

[richingalveston]

Sounds like you broke the chain or the shift fork, if the pop happened when shifting then it is probably the fork, if the pop happened after shifting and when driving then it is probably the chain. get your 208 fixed or get a 205 and forget about the 241. you will have just as much fab work for a 241 as a 205 and for the cost of the passenger drop 241 you can get a 205 with a diablo box in front of it and thus have a doubler for even more 4x4 fun. I bought my 205 for $250 and it came with clocking plate and addaptor
I plan to purchase a diablo box which uses the 241 planetary gears in front of the 205. The diablo box is $600 plus the gears which I am still sourcing, I have found them for around $200 but have not purchased yet. The tripple shifter is about $300 so for less than $1500 plus some crossmember fab work and a few other minor details, you can get an awsome doubler. I have seen complete 241 transfer cases, passenger drop, sell for $1200 or more.

For the money, I would get your 208 fixed. If you were going to upgrade, I would upgrade to a 205 with doubler instead of a 241.


This is my 2 cents, I have looked into this issue recently, I am currently installing a 4l80e in my 1009, and will install the 208 for a short while until my 205 doubler is ready to install. I looked at the 241 but most critics 'that I have talked to' beleive the 205 is the strongest t-case available unless you get a lomax or atlas.

 

[ProPower]

A 241 out of a 88-91 blazer or suburban is a direct bolt in. No fab work whatsoever ! We've run all three of them behind 1000+ hp boggers/skimmers and the 241 with a slip yolk eliminator broke the least !

 

[max1008]

Pull apart the 208 and check it out, they are very simple and just do the teardown with the TM open and you will have no problems. Fix any bearings, forks, seals, chain that is broken.

 

[Shankem-Deep]

Ok guys I had a buddy help me diagnose this issue. With the hubs unlocked or in the free position and the T-case in 2-hi we could rotate the front drive shaft freely by hand. We put it in 4-hi and the front drive shaft coulnd't be turned by hand. It also engaged the front drive shaft in 4-low. All appeard correct. Hmmmm. So next we went back into 2-hi and locked the driver's side Hub in. We tried to rotate the front drive line and the driver's side hub was engaging. I unlocked the driver's side and locked the passenger side hub. We could rotate the drive line freely again, so the passenger side hub was not engaging properly! AHAAA!! I pulled apart the locking hub and the snap ring that goes around the end of the axle (the small snap ring) was out of it's groove and preventing the hub from engaging. When turning the hub from free to lock the loose snap ring was blocking the the correct engagement. So today I'm going to clean both hubs up and replace the outer o-ring and small snap ring on both sides. I'll let you guys know if this indeed fixes my problem. I may have got lucky this time!! Hopefully Napa has these parts! Anyone have the numbers of the o-ring and small snap ring? I'll look in the TM.

 

[Shankem-Deep]

Well Napa was zero help. I even had the part numbers from the TM. Turns out my passenger side locking hub has seen better days. I've called the local salvage yards and I might as well be searching for a space ship part.... I also called Offroad Design and Steven is looking for a good take off Dana 60 hub that might be laying around. He is supposed to get back with me tomorrow. If any of you guys have a spare locking hub assembly I will be more than happy to work out a deal with you if Offroad Design doesn't come through.

 

[Cucvnut]

A 241 out of a 88-91 blazer or suburban is a direct bolt in. No fab work whatsoever ! We've run all three of them behind 1000+ hp boggers/skimmers and the 241 with a slip yolk eliminator broke the least !

its only bolt in it you have a 3/4 ton burban from 89, The Blazer 241's are wrong spline count. You need a 32 spline 241 not a 27 spline off a blazer.

 

[Shankem-Deep]

its only bolt in it you have a 3/4 ton burban from 89, The Blazer 241's are wrong spline count. You need a 32 spline 241 not a 27 spline off a blazer.

All this talk about the transfer case has got me searching for a 241 for the lower gearing. The 89 3/4 ton suburban is the only one with the correct splines and mechanical speedo correct? Otherwise if i find a 241 that is 32 spline from a chevy I could swap out the electronic speedo with a mechanical....or am I completely wrong?

 

[Cucvnut]

Yes a 89 will work for you, that's what i am running, im not sure about swapping out the vss on a later 241 plus it might be the wong side drip.

 

[Warthog]

Well Napa was zero help. I even had the part numbers from the TM. Turns out my passenger side locking hub has seen better days. I've called the local salvage yards and I might as well be searching for a space ship part.... I also called Offroad Design and Steven is looking for a good take off Dana 60 hub that might be laying around. He is supposed to get back with me tomorrow. If any of you guys have a spare locking hub assembly I will be more than happy to work out a deal with you if Offroad Design doesn't come through.

I have a couple of project burbs that I could loan you the lockout hub until you can find one to buy. Both are 3/4t. One is a 1990 and the other is a 1987.

Not interested in selling the lockouts as I will need them.

I'll check to see what axles are on them.

 

[Shankem-Deep]

I'm going to keep looking for one, I might get lucky. I ordered New Mile Marker Locking hubs for $139.31 shipped, that should clear up my hub issues.

 

[Shankem-Deep]

I have a couple of project burbs that I could loan you the lockout hub until you can find one to buy. Both are 3/4t. One is a 1990 and the other is a 1987.

Not interested in selling the lockouts as I will need them.

I'll check to see what axles are on them.

Thanks for the offer amigo! I just ordered some new ones a few minutes ago. I was having a hard time finding a used one with a price that was justifiable. 2 new ones for under $140, hard to go wrong.

 

[Shankem-Deep]

I installed the new Mile Marker locking hubs last night. Bingo! I have working 4-wheel drive again! The hubs I ordered are Stainless Steel so they're shinny and stick out like sore thumb. I may have to figure out a way to paint them or something. I wonder if sandblasting them would let paint stick?? Thanks to all you guys that responded with knowledge and advice! Now at least I have one backup locking hub I can take with me on that trails!

 

[max1008]

glad you got it fixed. I painted my factory hubs when I painted the truck. Looked fine until I got stuck and the grit in the mud polished the aluminum again!

 

[1aMThEZeRO]

Had a similar problem, with my 1009, wouldnt engage, my hubs just had a fluke and one side wasnt engaged, and it only happened the one time, however your trick to test the transfer case and hubs PRIOR to getting stuck works like a champ!!! I will probably replace the manual locking hubs with a set of Warn lockers, however in the mean time I know the hubs are locked in when the front shaft wont turn in 2WH... Thanks!!!
Ray, (Alottanowhere, Texas)