What is the Correct Stop Light Switch P/N - Old Style/Hydraulic?

[SteveKuhn]

I have the old style hydraulic-side stop light switch and it shorted out. I need to replace it. I know about the air side upgrade but that's not what I'm after at this point.

It looks to me like both the hydraulic side and air side stop light switches have the same P/N in the TMs, but that the NSN (???) is different. Is there a difference in numbers and if so, what is the old-style hydraulic side number?

Here's what I've found along with diagrams. The 361-24P shows the switch on the air side or am I missing something?

TM9-2320-209-20P.pdf
65 1 PAOZZ 5930-00-789-6192 11602160 19207 SWITCH, PRESSURE: HYDRAULIC EA 14


TM9-2320-361-20P.pdf
30 PAOZZ 2540-00-789-6192 19207 11602160 SWITCH,STOPLIGHT,AU................. 1

Thanks.

Steve

 

[197thhhc]

It is 5972752. I keep them in stock. PM me for info if you need one.

 

[SteveKuhn]

Thanks. The NSNs and part numbers get very confusing. Shortly after I posted, one of the local guys spotted it and I think he has not only the switch but the plug parts for the wires leading in to it. They're shot as well.

I tested all the other lights and unlike the last time I had a short, they all work and neither the 3 lever or turn signal switches are shot. Thankfully.

 

[patracy]

Unless you're an absolute stickler for authenticity. A hobbs pressure switch and crimp lug terminals will repair your issue as well. Best of all, they can be had from any parts store.

 

[SteveKuhn]

Underneath like this, I'm not worried about authenticity. Before posting, I read a half-dozen threads on this. Bjorn and Doghead (I'm pretty sure) had commented in a couple of them on pressure rating and DOT5 compatibility, particularly with the NAPA SL-134 Switch. The Deuce switch pressure was to be 3000+.

I went to NAPA just to investigate and they looked up the switch and pulled it out. Its max was 150. The counter guy said standard hydraulic is up to 120 or so. At greater pressure, it would likely blow out.

I just looked up the Hobbs and found this model which looks OK but its capacity was similar. Is there a particular number in the Hobbs line that you'd recommend? Also, that area seems prone to oil splash and these don't have the integrated boot on switch and plug. I'm pretty sure that the biggest part of my short was caused by the splash working its way in esp. because it had individual lead plugs instead of the tight sealing plug. This is from one of the Hobbs switches that looked right:
[h=1]HOBBS PRESSURE SWITCH
[/h] 15 PSI Pressure Switch
Condition: Standard 5000 Series Specifications:
Type - Direct action blade contact
Contacts - Silver alloy, gold plated
Set Point - Factory set from 0.5 to 150 PSI
Operating Pressure - 150 PSI for 0.5-24 PSI set point range
Proof Pressure - 500 PSI
Burst Pressure - 750 PSI for 0.5-24 PSI set point range
Ratings:
Resistive: 15 AMP- 6 VDC
8 AMP- 12 VDC
4 AMP- 24 VDC
Inductive: 1 AMP- 120 VAC
0.5 AMP- 240 VAC
Diaphragm - Polyimide film Temperature

 

[patracy]

On the hydraulic side, yes. However, there was a MWO to move them to the air side. Here's the "kit"

http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/brliairopswu.html

You've only got 120psi tops in the deuce's air system on a good day.

 

[SteveKuhn]

Yes, thanks. I know about the kit from the other threads. I'm working on the hydraulic side only for the moment.

Steve

 

[patracy]

I would convert to air instead...

 

[steelandcanvas]

I would convert to air instead...

True story, I'd rather lose air and know it, than lose brake fluid and not know it.