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Pintle Hook Repair

stationjj

Member
263
1
18
Location
Middle Tennessee
The Pintle Hook on M1009 is rust, Frozen, or both? The lever on top won't budge at all to release the hook.

I tried WD-40 and PB Blaster with no luck. If I took a hammer to it might move? I am not going to try it.

I noticed 2 bolts that looks like it hold it together. If I could maybe some how remove these bolts? I could be able to clean up and oil.

Has anyone done this before? Or am better off just trying to replace?

I just recovered a M101a2 yesterday. Towing the M101a2 isn't ideal with my Nissan Murano.

Thanks,

stationjj
 

EMD567

Driver for the Ga Mafia
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,117
47
48
Location
Aiken SC
Tap it with a hammer, and gently pry with a large screwdriver/prybar. You will have to work it back and forth, but it should start to loosen up after a little effort. THen grease well.
 

mdmorgan

AM3 U.S. Navy
1,085
103
63
Location
Forsyth, Ga.
Take it apart, they are pretty simple. If it is rusted that bad the spring inside is probably shot so even if you did get it to move it wouldn't want to stay latched. Your not going to break anything by taking it apart, and it will work 100 times better than if you just beat on it to get it to move.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
WD-40 is a good product for its intended use, but it is NOT a penetrating oil. PB Blaster is not bad, but a much better penetrant is a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone.

A machinist's magazine did a controlled test on penetrating oils a few years back. They rusted a bunch of bolts in place, then measured the torque that was needed to break them loose, using a dry bolt as the standard, and then using various penetrating oils.

WD-40 didn't do much better than dry. PB Blaster made a good improvement, Kroil was much better, but the acetone/ATF mix was the best by far.

Hit it with some of that mix, let it sit, then start tapping on it like was mentioned above.
 

admiralking

New member
43
1
0
Location
Las Vegas, NV
I would also consider using heat. I bought a trailer and wanted to spin the pintle downward. Penetrating oil, pry bars, and hammers had almost no effect. We used a plumbers torch to heat the pintle and threads and it finally broke free.
 

stationjj

Member
263
1
18
Location
Middle Tennessee
Well I got the Pintle Hook lever un-lodged. I also unbolted the lever from the pintle hook itself. The bolts were easy to unbolt on mine.

It was rusted and full of dirt. The spring was rust badly and snapped on me. These springs aren't some special item? Should be able to get at a parts house?

I will begin the process of cleaning the the rust out. I will spray insides with Por 15 BlackCote Spray.

Pictures Below;

IMG_0420.jpgIMG_0421.jpg
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,810
113
Location
GA Mountains
Older deuce pintles had many zerk fittings including some of the bolts IIRC. May be worth the time to do a little drilling and tapping for zerks. Once greased up with synthetic, should never give you an issue again.
 

mdmorgan

AM3 U.S. Navy
1,085
103
63
Location
Forsyth, Ga.
Well I got the Pintle Hook lever un-lodged. I also unbolted the lever from the pintle hook itself. The bolts were easy to unbolt on mine.

It was rusted and full of dirt. The spring was rust badly and snapped on me. These springs aren't some special item? Should be able to get at a parts house?

I will begin the process of cleaning the the rust out. I will spray insides with Por 15 BlackCote Spray.

Pictures Below;

View attachment 399499View attachment 399500
Imagine that, I reference you back to post# 4 of this thread. Taking it apart to do it right will leave you with a better working hook when your done.
 
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