No more Wellman ("Swellman") glow plugs in my CUCVs...

[mikev]

Never again will I install Wellman glow plugs in my CUCVs. AC Delco and Bosch replaced the ones below...

Some of you guys have had good luck with Wellmans, not me - so no more installing them in my CUCVs.

The first batch of photos show Wellmans with 6 months and maybe 250 miles on them from my '86 M1009 - notice the anti-seize paste still on them...





These were in my '85 M1008 (the seller said "installed new glow plugs")...

 

[camp9]

Hey Mike, That's the same results I've had too in my trucks. I can't remember what I put in last, its the ones Doghead recommended in the Doghead mod thread on here (g60 AC's maybe?), and they've been working out great. I picked up some ac 12g a few months back at a garage sale and put them in my old ford with the 7.3 and going to give them a try tomorrow. I have a manual set up in that one too.

 

[K9Vic]

Thanks for this post, I am going to check the ones in my most recent M1009 purchase to be sure they are OK. The maintenance records show they were recently replaced, but if they are Wellman plugs I will replace them for peace of mind.

 

[forest522]

Wow Mikev, those are bad. AC 60s have been great in mine so far. And they are well used. The temperature sensor (back drivers side, one that is wired to the glow plug controller card) went weird on me awhile ago. I replaced it with a new one from Napa. No big deal, it wasnt that expensive. Testing the system using a well worn book from CUCVelectric, found that the temp switch was still not functioning right. Checked wiring...all the rest. No avail.

Getting to the point...local 6.2 mechanic and friend said that switch has been a constant problem for many a 6.2. He recommended just unplug it. Leave it. Which means, as many of you know, that the plugs will cycle every time the vehicle is started, regardless of engine temp. They run for about 12 seconds. At first those 12 seconds seemed like an eternity. I worried I'd hear a pop, fiz or poof. That mechanic friend insisted, don't sweat it, those AC60s are great and will not over heat.

I'll still keep an eye on them annually though. One day maybe I'll figure out the real problem, even the card is new. Hmmff.

 

[PAm1009]

I am getting ready to tackle this job myslef i have wellmans in now and bought ac60's. I know its been covered but what was your method on removing the swollen plugs that broke off?

 

[Warthog]

Injector removal and a pair of forceps

 

[bkwudzhom]

The long nosed hemostats make great retrivers in tight places. I think that HF even sells a couple of types of long hemostats. I have to get mine changed as well.

 

[scottladdy]

I've yet to run into an impossibly swollen plug that couldn't be removed from the GP port.

But, contemplating ways to resolve this I've wondered whether or not a shop vac hose held up against he injector port would work as well. Anyone ever try this?

 

[K9Vic]

I've yet to run into an impossibly swollen plug that couldn't be removed from the GP port.

But, contemplating ways to resolve this I've wondered whether or not a shop vac hose held up against he injector port would work as well. Anyone ever try this?

Yes you can try the shop vac but it may not always work, just make sure the GP hole is sealed to get good suction. Some also will used compresses air to blow the tip out, but that is risky in my opinion.

The best tool to pull them out is a hemostat that you can get from Harbor Freight for about $5.00. They have both a curved P/N#65709 and straight P/N#65711 one that will work well to remove the broken tip. Also a long needle nose pliers works but may be too wide if the tip is deep in there. As long as they are not too bad, the JJ & A racing GP tool will pull them out when swollen.

Here is my glow plug tool video, at the end it shows how to remove a broken plug.
http://youtu.be/arwBXG6wZsg

 

[mikev]

Like Warthog said: "injector removal and a pair of forceps"

I used curved forceps for removal and a long, tapered, pointed prybar to "bend" the tips into a curve. The prybar was used in the injector port after injector removal. The tips were "broken off" from the base before using the prybar.

If the glow plug tips aren't too swollen like the top photo ones, then wiggling (sp?) with vice-grips usually will get them out. When the tips are swollen like the bottom photos, then you have to break off the tips to remove them.

BTW: Those glow plug tools will NOT pull badly swollen tips straight out - the tool will break off the tips first... I was going to buy a tool, but learned of its limitation, so I spent the $$ on an injector socket instead.

 

[Skinny]

I had really good luck getting my engine nice and toasty, then immediately trying to remove the GP's. I had quite a few swollen ones. Once I unthreaded them, I would squirt some penetrating oil down there. Follow this up with twisting and prying gently outward with locking pliers. (I wanted to say vice grips but that is name brand...some old timer would correct me on that). Keep repeating this process for the real stubborn ones. Get the engine hot, shut down, unthread, oil, work it, repeat. Saved me from having to break any off or remove injectors. Not a fun process!

 

[ramcatdoc]

This has been a very helpful thread. I am having cold start issues: basically won't start, though it cranks very well. Not all that cold, either, here in western SC. I found the YT video before I found this thread - makes the whole process seem less intimidating than I had thought. I'll use the TM to troubleshoot first, but I suspect my GPs are shot. I have easy access to hemostats with my line of work. I've heard of car mechanics being compared to surgery, but never really thought of using surgical instruments to fix my CUCV!